I am about to dive into removing two layers of paint from my 67 cat. The original color was coated with a layer of enamel (poor job to boot) I have the time and the patience to do this job. I just don't have any experience with stripping auto paint. I am a painter (houses) not cars so I do have some experience with being delicate with finishes, etc. One friend recommended aircraft paint stripper. Also, after the nasty stuff is gone what do I clean it off with, what kind of primer? Any suggestions? Thanks
Paint Stripping
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Here's what I plan to do...
Use the aircraft stripper.. it's fun to watch it bubble and crinkle all the paint up so you just scoop it off and trash it. You can wipe it down afterwards with something like MEK or Acetone... something like either of those will remove the crud, and evaporate with no residue behind. As for primer? I'd check with wherever you're having the paint done. Some places are picky and want a decent primer that will let their paint stick to it.. not Krylon from pep-boys or autozone.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it...
Robert
Use the aircraft stripper.. it's fun to watch it bubble and crinkle all the paint up so you just scoop it off and trash it. You can wipe it down afterwards with something like MEK or Acetone... something like either of those will remove the crud, and evaporate with no residue behind. As for primer? I'd check with wherever you're having the paint done. Some places are picky and want a decent primer that will let their paint stick to it.. not Krylon from pep-boys or autozone.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it...
Robert
In the January 2002 edition of Custom Rodder, they use PPG Industries blue primer and I think it looks really nice. It is supposed to stick real good and I was interested in using it. Their website has a distibutor locator that will find any stores near you that sell it.
Hope this will help.
Hope this will help.
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
for stripping i really really dislike chemical means of it unless you get the whole car dipped. and thats not practical for most of us. aircraft remover is expensive, stinks, and despite what alot of people say, i havent found it to work all that well. i hate stripping cars, but if i were to have to do it, id sand the old finishes off. use an air tool or some other instrument of destruction to help with it. they make nice 8 inch sanders that are used for this and work really well. try not to use a 6 inch DA sander for this, youll only anger yourself and use alot of paper. sandblasting wokrs as well, but you cna damage the metal and you will make a mess. after you get all of that done, id use a self etching primer over the bare metal and shoot a nice primer surfacer over it. PCL makes some inexpensive ones. id use their etching primer for sure, but money no object id go with Valspars 21N primer surfacer. VERY thick stuff and it will go a long way in helping you get that car straight. of course, this is after you get the better part of the cars body work done. and i hope you keep the car inside.
This is a little long sorry.
I've been told a few different ways to strip and am using this method. If anyone can see where i am messing up , please let me know. I am using Mar-Hyde strip-tal paint remover . It's like the aircraft stuff. I have found the key is to brush it on then drape or lay plastic over the area. It keeps the goop from evaporating quickly. Let it sit for about 10-15 mins longer if you have multi layers.Use a putty knife to scrape the paint off. Then i use a small pressure washer to wash the paint off.Repeat as nessesary. I do smaller sections and then spray them with WD40 to keep it from rusting. Once i get a good area done i wash it down with a degreaser and wipe down dry again.Then i brush on naval jelly on the rust spots and surface rust if there is any and let it dry .Now i take pics so i know where rust or defects are to be repaired later. Media blast the rust out, sand the body with 240 grit.Then i wipe it down with Dupont final clean and spray a coat of their self etching primer. Then i am going to go back and fix all the defects and do any filling. Once the body is nice and straight i'll sand it with 400-500 grit. Another wipe down with Final clean. Now it is ready for a Primer/sealer, base coats, and clear coats. Depending on how well i shoot the first etching primer will determine whether i spray the primer/sealer myself or get someone who does it for a living to do it for me. And that will determine who paints the base and clear. I hear dupont has some paint that is somewhat easy to lay down. But expensive. And their website was easy to find out what paints are compatible with what primers and all that crap. I guess i'll see what i end up with.
Dipping the body is probably best for stripping but it will run about $1500 to do the body and doors,trunk,hood,
Too much for me. I wish i could though.
Glen
I've been told a few different ways to strip and am using this method. If anyone can see where i am messing up , please let me know. I am using Mar-Hyde strip-tal paint remover . It's like the aircraft stuff. I have found the key is to brush it on then drape or lay plastic over the area. It keeps the goop from evaporating quickly. Let it sit for about 10-15 mins longer if you have multi layers.Use a putty knife to scrape the paint off. Then i use a small pressure washer to wash the paint off.Repeat as nessesary. I do smaller sections and then spray them with WD40 to keep it from rusting. Once i get a good area done i wash it down with a degreaser and wipe down dry again.Then i brush on naval jelly on the rust spots and surface rust if there is any and let it dry .Now i take pics so i know where rust or defects are to be repaired later. Media blast the rust out, sand the body with 240 grit.Then i wipe it down with Dupont final clean and spray a coat of their self etching primer. Then i am going to go back and fix all the defects and do any filling. Once the body is nice and straight i'll sand it with 400-500 grit. Another wipe down with Final clean. Now it is ready for a Primer/sealer, base coats, and clear coats. Depending on how well i shoot the first etching primer will determine whether i spray the primer/sealer myself or get someone who does it for a living to do it for me. And that will determine who paints the base and clear. I hear dupont has some paint that is somewhat easy to lay down. But expensive. And their website was easy to find out what paints are compatible with what primers and all that crap. I guess i'll see what i end up with.
Dipping the body is probably best for stripping but it will run about $1500 to do the body and doors,trunk,hood,
Too much for me. I wish i could though.
Glen
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
maybe this is a preference, but i wont prime a car if its sanded with anything finer than 180 grit. makes me nervous about whether the primer will stick to it. for final paint and sealer.. yeah ill sand with a red scotchbrite or 400 wet. maybe 320 dry in a pinch. if the car is going to be black or a real dark color, ill go with 600 wet for a final sanding. as far as using WD40 on the bare metal.. makes me nervous about fisheyes later on. just use some good metal prep. Dupont makes a nice one, but hey, its just like all their other crap. too much money. there are rumors that you can go to Home Depot and get some metal prep for like $10 a quart and it will do everything DuPonts will. just my thoughts.
sixt9coug normally i would agree but when you use a self etching primer it eats a little at the surface of the metal .Thats why it sticks so well. Regular primer will not stick to bare metal very well.
Dupont recommends using 180 then 240 grit paper so thats what i'm going with.
Oh and i'm a firm beleiver in "You get what you pay for."
Glen
Dupont recommends using 180 then 240 grit paper so thats what i'm going with.
Oh and i'm a firm beleiver in "You get what you pay for."
Glen
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
there are alot of ways to do paint and body. i have never met 2 painters or bodymen that work exactly the same. i have been lerning and i basically do what works best for me. thats what most people do. what matters most is the end result. theres just a whole lot of paths to getting there . oh yeah, and you really get what you pay for when it comes to paint and body. i really really doubt that you will get a kick ass paint job that will make a bunch of people jealous for less than $1000. hell my uncle had is Blazer painted at One Day paint and body. they charged 800 and used cheap paint, left scratches all over the car, and i know that paint will show signs of fading in a year. my uncle likes it though, so its his car and thats all that matters. i think im very critical when it comes to body and paint. or maybe just observant.
. oh yeah, and you really get what you pay for when it comes to paint and body. i really really doubt that you will get a kick ass paint job that will make a bunch of people jealous for less than $1000. hell my uncle had is Blazer painted at One Day paint and body. they charged 800 and used cheap paint, left scratches all over the car, and i know that paint will show signs of fading in a year. my uncle likes it though, so its his car and thats all that matters. i think im very critical when it comes to body and paint. or maybe just observant.
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
ok, here we go......
first stage.... after you strip the metal... blow it off of all the dust and crap around. you can degrease it as well with some laquer thinner if you have been touching it alot.
second stage... shoot some self etching primer on it. you can buy it in spray cans or gallons as a two part product. PCL is an inexpensive brand, but it may not be available at your own paint store. at least here in SoCal, not all stores sell the same brands. you dont need alot on there, just enough to cover the metal. after that its good enough
third stage .... after about 15 or 20 minutes after you shoor the etching primer, you can shoot a primer surfacer over that. PCL makes an inexpensive one called Polyprimer. its about $50 a gallon and its good stuff. i like it. if you dont shoot over it yet, you can wait until later but sand the etching primer if you wait. it can be shot over while its still wet ( not WET, but fresh ) but id sand it with some 180 or so if its sat a while. get the primer surfacer on there until you bury and scratches or whatnot that you may have on the surface.
fourth stage..... errrr, let it all dry and then proceed to finish the body and paint in a normal process. all in all its not that bad
fifth stage.... go around back and finish off that beer you left out there before it gets all warm ( optional )
first stage.... after you strip the metal... blow it off of all the dust and crap around. you can degrease it as well with some laquer thinner if you have been touching it alot.
second stage... shoot some self etching primer on it. you can buy it in spray cans or gallons as a two part product. PCL is an inexpensive brand, but it may not be available at your own paint store. at least here in SoCal, not all stores sell the same brands. you dont need alot on there, just enough to cover the metal. after that its good enough
third stage .... after about 15 or 20 minutes after you shoor the etching primer, you can shoot a primer surfacer over that. PCL makes an inexpensive one called Polyprimer. its about $50 a gallon and its good stuff. i like it. if you dont shoot over it yet, you can wait until later but sand the etching primer if you wait. it can be shot over while its still wet ( not WET, but fresh ) but id sand it with some 180 or so if its sat a while. get the primer surfacer on there until you bury and scratches or whatnot that you may have on the surface.
fourth stage..... errrr, let it all dry and then proceed to finish the body and paint in a normal process. all in all its not that bad
fifth stage.... go around back and finish off that beer you left out there before it gets all warm ( optional )
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
let me look in my wallet of tricks... you live in SoCal so this should make it easier on me. i dont know any places in Anaheim, but is Los Alamitos close enough?? theres a place called Color Express Auto and Paint Supply. on 4450 Cerritos Ave in Los Alamitos. their number 562-863-4011 and they have another number listed on their card too -- 714-761-9185. there are places closer to my house that give discounts for college students like me... but they arent as close to you as these guys are. but any auto paint store should carry this stuff.
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!