<style>p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times; }p.MsoBodyText, li.MsoBodyText, div.MsoBodyText { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 16pt; font-family: Times; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }</style> This is the completion of this rear seat belt project. Now a bit of background on me I’ve worked in the theater all my life where they frown on things falling from the sky so I’ve a tendency to over build things
I am not sure of the forces applied to sear belts in time of need so take what I’ve done with a grain of salt. This is my third 3-point seat belt install and I find each company has different designs. This one & last one were from Virginia classic mustang and they are different from each other.
Each company does give an assorted supply of rated bolts and hardware but for the vert front seat belts I had to make my own top anchor points from 1/ 8” steel flat stock and 1/ 2” threaded rod, about 2” long. Theirs were too short to fit through the side interior panel.
But I did get a chance to use the bolts and nilock nuts on this car.
I’ve only heard of one other person on these boards having done this project and he never had a chance to send my pictures of the anchor points so I was on my own. It took me days of being in the back seat hole on my knees. UGH
A lot of my time was spent taping stuff in position then putting seats back in place to see if it would work there. Then pulling the seats out again managing to kneel on sharp objects or scrap my skin off. But you don’t have to go through that. Be fore warned though.
After taping things in place the hardest part was figuring out how the retractor belts ran through the top point, drove me crazy as belts got twisted and I sat there sweating feeling stupid. It does work just look closely. 9322, 9327, 9371, 9372
Now I can start to drill holes 9290 starting at the top then moving down to floor. One needs to find the inner frame rail 9356 9357 to drill retractor anchor holes. That keeps the mounting stud from turning in place.
Then come the side anchor points 9295, as each companies are different and these were a stupid design 9320 I had to use two points, why the slot? On well. I marked the top of the bottom & back seat to have a good anchor point 9330 see also 9375 alternative anchor point.
The top retractor belt guide did worry me so after a few fits and starts this is what I came up with. 9321 is the stock point were I drilled through the pop rivet holes using screws to hold things in place. But one can see there is no metal to anchor to so I made a 6 5/8” flat stock brace 9361 anchored top and bottom using 1/2” bolts & nilocks. 9344, 9351., 9348. when using nilock nuts there should be two threads showing beyond nut.
Hopefully this should hold, I really wanted to use angle iron that would have been better but I didn’t have any handy.
The interior side panels need to have a slot cut in them for them to mount properly, not a problem as they are plastic covered in vinyl which I peeled back the glued it around the new hole 9362, 9341
Now pretty much in the home stretch leaving only the chrome well molding turned around and holes cut to fit under the top belt guide and screwed back into place. 9298, 9363
This should hold the big lug who did the work 9331 or just
Look nice as is 9366. Here the center belts cross just for a better fit but I don’t think they need to.
This took three days of working in 90-degree sun and not a lot of laughs but we, my wife and I did it. Now the kids can go to the beach in style safely tucked under their belts.
see photobucket album for pics as i can't figure out how to upload them tonight, long day. But this should give anybody a head start from where i began.
http://s1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/jeneyoutt/