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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone used Eastwoods half horse buffer for polishing chrome and stainless? I bought the kit to go on you drill and it would probably be great except the small parts won't hold still. I think it would be easier to have a stationary buffer and hold the part than to try and keep the part stationary as they are not on the car. Would it be worth my money to get one from eastwood? Couple hundred bucks? I looked at harbor freight and they dont have anything.
 

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I LOVE my Dremel tool for the small stuff Harvey - they have some really good attatchements for buffing/polishing and you can really control the speed. But for large parts, the buffer wheels you get for your bench grinder and a good assortment of them are very good along with the various compounds to achieve the final finnish. Once you "load" a wheel with a grade of compound, you should bag and tag it for that level and never cross contaminate....you will need to work your way through them to get good results. Here's some basics:

https://www.swmetal.com/page/faq

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Polishing_Stainless.pdf

Don't spend money on expensive equipment -just follow good techniques and use plenty of wheels/buffers for each level and this stuff will last you for years.
 

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I have their 1 horse buffer, and am very happy with it. It isnt powerful enough try be in a production shop, but is great for the DIY restorer. I think I got it on sale for around 150.
 

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as stated above , keep your buffs in a plastic and don't cross the rouge up---keep the rouge in bags also--the oils in them will dry out after a while---the larger the wheel , the smoother the finish will be---also easier to wad up perfectly good stainless and aluminum parts---how do i know you ask??
stuff like the stainless around the side windows can be done with 4/0 steel wool and wenol by hand
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can the aluminum parts be polished or do they have to be re anodized? and has anyone ever used the sharkskin stuff eastwood has? They say you put it over freshly polished stuff?
 

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The aluminum trim around the hood and trunk will have to be stripped of the anodize before buffing, then clear coat, or sharkskin.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What is a good way to strip the old anodize off? Would this also work for the lower side moldings?
 

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What is a good way to strip the old anodize off? Would this also work for the lower side moldings?
Harvey, you can buy the stripper from any shop that sell buffing materials, it comes in powder form and add water, it is very caustic, or you can use spray on oven cleaner, spray on, wait till quits bubbling, rinse and repeat until anodize is gone.
Will work on any alum. that is anodized.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Towcat. Probably not a project for the basement then in regards to removing the old anodize? To much time on my hands right now and the weather won't let me do much. Never did put heat in the barn. Supposed to be out cutting wood today but with the strong winds and snow just not up to it. A little sunshine would make some difference.
 

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i have seen people use draino too---it can destroy your alum mouldings---take them to a shop that does anodizing and have them stripped---because it's clear anodize its hard to tell when its all off---hit it with some 320/240 wet or dry and if it remains shiny and hard , take them back to the platers to be stripped again---then 320/400/600/800/1200 wet or dry with a rubber block---when all the pits are gone , buff them out--then a flash of clear anodize
i left the trim un anodized on my old t-bolt replica---even though it lived inside , you had to redo the shine a couple times a year---just mask off the paint surfaces an polish with a rag and wenol
the non anodized trim looks great but its too shiny for a restoration---try to find a plating shop that the owner likes old fords---jim @ chico metal finish in chico ca is a 62-64 galixie nut---knows all about aluminum trim
doctordesoto
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Doc, Been trying to decide if I wanted to try the aluminum myself or exchange it at WCCC for stuff already done? The stainless and chrome doesn't bother me so much but I really don't want to ruin the aluminum. especially the wheel well trim. Three of the four are in great shape, passenger side I will probably need to replace :(
 

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Harvey, no matter which way you go, I would never tell a person to use something that would destroy what you are working on, I have used both of the ways that I said with no harmful results. If you are not comfortable with a high speed buffer, then I would send them out to a shop.
 

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actually the alum wasn't too bad to do---alot of picking lottle dings on the leading edges of the rear wheel well mouldings and the trailing edges of all of them---about 30 hours of work in the first 3 3/4 mouldings---wadded up the last one in the buffer--probably another 7 hours time there .after the car got broke in , we took an extended trip from nor cal to so cal then to ariz and on to the grand canyon and back hwy 50---the leading edges look like you unbolted them and drug them down the highway---guess thats going to happen if you drive them
doctordesoto
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Towcat I didn't recon you would. Doc that just aint right to spend that much time on something then have the road eatem up that quick! I do plan on driving this car if and when i ever get it back together again. I am really starting to not like winter. Spent most of this morning cutting firewood. Now I have to wait for the spasams in my back to quit so I can go stack the wood! Had a lot of fun when I was younger. Am paying for it now.
 
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