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Sometimes the cost of the build is not that much more for a stoker kit. If you have to turn or replace the crank, resize and shot peen the rods, replace the pistons, you may be most the way to the stroker.
 

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Not bad wood - it looks like a good match for your desired fit and go a bit more low $ - assuming you don't need much machine work. I'd go with the screw in stud option though - which will require some machine work in the heads - as well as going with hardened seats. Again - depending on how much machine costs run - you may be better off with aftermarket heads.

Also: with teflon seal it is necessary to disassemble the heads and machine the top of the guide with a special .530 diameter cutter. Whenever you are planning an engine overhaul or a cam change, don't forget the valve seals.
 

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I don't know about the Magnum hydraulic roller cams, but the Magnum flat tappets seem to make more noise than power but not as bad as the newer Thumpr cams...

I'm a firm believer in a high lift/short duration cam for an efficient street engine rather than a long duration 'eye-burner'. It provides better low-end power where a street engine spends most of it's time, yet still provides a good kick at the top end. For that reason, I decided on the Extreme Energy retrofit hydraulic roller.

My 393W is using is using the Xtreme Energy 276 hydraulic roller, but with 1.7 rockers to provide the same .544/.544 lift you're looking at and it idles right down to 700rpm with a little lope. Great throttle response. Yes, even this cam requires double valvesprings, so you'll have to spend some $$ on head machining for valve seals or find a cheap pair of used aftermarket heads...
 

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These are the heads that I have, and planning a cam around them now is part of the reason fro the change away from the stroker..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51400002

What do you think about these heads?
I will build this engine a hundred times while I am gone, so forgive me if you get tired of my wandering mind. I have a lot going on right now....
 

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Very nice - not cheap, but then what is? Those are pretty popular heads, and the flow characteristics are good. Good quality fastners is crucial and you get that too.
 

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I remember a very detailed head comparison article in either 5.0 or Muscle mustangs and fast fords a few years back.Might be able to find it on the internet. Comp makes a .512 , .533 with 281,284 duration that will keep it under the .540 max lift for those heads. I have almost the exact cam in my 302 and it has a very noticable lope to it
 

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I have a Trick Flow track heat stage 1 cam which is similar. 283/291 with a .499/.510 lift. Got it off of a guy who had it in a 347 that made about 450hp, apparently it pulled right up to 7k despite the advertised range of 2000-5500. Plus, its like $100 cheaper than the comp one.
 

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http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=903&sb=2

For my 69 351W? I am now leaning away from the stroker kit, and just looking at a good streetable fun build. The car already has a 3.89 gear, and I have a T5 waiting to go in...
The difference of the stroker kit will probably cover a good part of my paint and body needs...
Just my thoughts....little long on the duration so you may need to bump up compression and expect some loss of vacuum, unless your '69 351W is a 4V? Should already have higher compression if it is, right?....no biggie, will put some life into your motor, lol. Don't forget hardened pushrods and upgraded rockers for the high spring rates, roller cams use higher pressure valve springs. Also roller cams are steel billet so you will need to change your distributor gear....I'm sure it will all be worth it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I emailed the tech guy at TF, and asked him about this cam:
http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D51403002&autoview=sku

He said all I need is the spring upgrade that they have. I will still need the dog bones and what not, so the Comp thing still looks pretty good. I do like that about Comp Cams, that they have a 'kit' that has everything for a bare block upgrade.
 

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