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Okay, I am sure everyone has an opinion on what brand of oil is best.
I have bought a new 5.0 roller crate motor for my car and have the opportunity to be in control of the oil choice from day 1.
What do you guys recommend?
Is Mobil 1 all it's cracked up to be?
Should I use a Pennzoil, Castrol, or what?
 

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Okay, let me start by saying that I could be wrong...

Having said that, after talking with more than a few motor guys (rebuilders), they seem to recommend Pennzoil for a conventional oil...

However, if you want to run synthetic, it's been said that you should run conventional for the first 10,000 or so, just to let the rings seat properly, etc.

But I'm sure there's arguments going the other way, so I'll shut up now :D .
 

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Non synth oil for first 6,000 to 10,000 miles is good,
on a modern 5.0 i like 5w30 non-synth or 10w30 synth,
REdline is a good synth, dont have to change t as regularlly as normal oil, ill bet it can go 10,000 miles between changes,
still check oil level every two weeks. it depends on how cold it gets, (not wicked cold in houston) NO TFE or solids in my oil, thank you.
 

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I have been advised to stay away from Pennsoil and Quaker State as they reportedly use a parifin like aditive to maintain viscosity. This tends to build up inside engine over time.

This of course is just one more mechanic talking. I'm using 20/50 Castrol in mine. It has less than 2,000 miles on it. I don't see any point in 10 weight oil with temperature above freezing.
 

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I've been using Valvoline for years. Never had a motor problem other than accessories, carb. etc.

A few months ago I had a new oil pan put on and they put in straight 50 wt Valvoline. It doesn't seem to run any differently and it's been warm, never less than 60, up to 85 when I take it out. (I've read that 50 wt is good for 40-100+ degrees). Same oil pressure as 10W-40.
The motor was supposedly rebuilt 2K miles ago, could/should I switch to synthetic now?

There's a good review in Hemming's Rods & Performance Dec01/Jan 02

It's several pages, but here's a bit about synthetics:
"The most asked question about engine oil for muscle cars is their compatability with the new synthetic oils. A fully synthetic, or a combination of a mineral/synthetic blend can be used in any engine. The early synthetics that were introduced approximately fifteen years ago had a slightly different swell rate for rubber seals, and became known for creating leaks in an engine that had the seals swelled to mineral oil. But that problem has been long corrected, and swell rates are nearly the same for mineral and synthetic oils."

A couple of other comments:

"......start by using 10W-40 and adjust the weight accordingly..........if it sounds dry and the valve lifters take a long time to pump up, then switch to 10W-30. If you plan on running the car hard for a race or long cruise, switch to a thicker oil."

Tim B
 

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I've heard the same thing swamper has about quaker state. Only thing is I ran it in my modified '68 for over 50000 miles. Pulled the engine out to do some engine compartment work and replace the headers. Of course that led to tearing down the engine to replace the cam and change the heads. Everything looked great! No scoring on the cylinder walls, bearings all looked great. I used 10w30 and 10w40.

Just my personal experience.
I think if you stick to a name brand oil, quaker, valvoline, etc, you should be fine.
 

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WOW! This is a question to get opinions flying! I have to agree with swamper on penzoil - quaker state oils (same parent company now I believe) These oils did have a parrifin base at one time I personally run 15-40 diesel oil in my cars because of the super high detergent additives. I own an equipment rental store and run the same oil in all equip from small engines to diesel loaders. I have had 0 oil related problems in anything! We use either shell rotella T or kendall super D3. If you prefer Kendall also has D3 in 10-30 which we use in winter. It's just my opinion and it probably helps that I change oil frequently. Oil is cheap, compared to parts and labor. Bob
 

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This is a bad subject, many opinions and none can really be proven right or wrong. I think any name brand detergent oil changed on a regular basis is probably fine.

That said I personally stay away from Quaker State, Penzoil and Castrol. The way I understand it is these 3 brands are all Penn crude oil based. I used to mechanic in my younger days and anytime I came across a sludged up engine and asked what kind of oil was used in it the reply was always Quaker State.

Then on the other hand I bought a car from the insurance company that my stepmother wrecked for parts for another car I had to work on. It being a sb Chevy the valve covers were leaking on it so when I pulled the covers to replace the gaskets I was amazed at how clean the engine was for having 95k miles on it. You guessed it, it had been only changed with Quaker State, at a religious 3k. So that one blew my theory.

I also hauled freight for awhile and was amazed when I went into a Citgo refinery to pick up a load. They had all different name brand oils being packaged all out of the same place. Thats right all used the same oil, just different amounts of additives and dyes.

I do belive its a good thing to stick with the same brand as much as possible, whichever you choose.

I had a dirt modified with a bad overheating problem that I ran the same engine all season and was very impressed with the Havoline 20-50 that I used in it when I tore the motor down that fall. The Havoline did its job in my mind with no major wear even though I saw the heat gauge hit 260 on many occasions.

That said I have run regular Mobil detergent oil in my everyday cars for many years and have no complaints at all with it. reasonbly priced and can be found almost everywear. mm
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I personally run 15-40 diesel oil in my cars because of the super high detergent additives.
I was told by someone I trust to run Delo, Chevron's Diesel oil in my 289 and I drive my car daily.
I did not notice any difference but after a couple of weeks I started to hear strange noises from the bottom end and on the way to Escondido for the SDCC show (about 100 miles ea. way) the car would blow major smoke when I let off the gas.
These issues led me to re-think the engine rebuild vs. crate motor.
I changed the oil to a Pennzoil straight 40W and have not heard the demons in the bottom end nor have I had any blow-by after long periods on the fwy. I actually spent 2 hours in bumper to bumper traffic in Downtown L.A. a couple of fridays ago going to the Bob's Cruise in Burbank (45 miles from me) with no noises or blow by
 

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i use ( dont hit me ) the el Cheapo stuff that i find at Wal Mart for like $10 a case. my theory is that the car leaks a good amount of oil and that the oil wont be in long enough to get really dirty. it seems to work fine. i use 20w50 in it and have no issues. no noises, oil light staying on or anything. i do change my oil religiously every 3k miles though....
 
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