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Discussion Starter #1
I've rebuilt the 390 in my 67 XR7 GT (Edelbrock Performer RPM heads/intake, 428 CJ exhaust manifold). I've added a 4 row radiator (from MU) and new fan clutch. Car has been dyno tuned and timing is correct. Have about 1000 miles on the rebuild.

Car has run on the hot side since the rebuild before and after new radiator. Temp readings of in/out of cooling system show that there is just not enough cooling capacity with the current system. Car does have A/C and with the added demand will put it in the red on a hot day. Overheating was rarely a problem before the rebuild but engine was tired.

A knowledgeable mechanic with FE experience is hopeful that adding an oil cooler will help the situation but room/location is an issue. Anyone have a oil cooler on a 67/68 FE car they could share info and maybe pics on the install?

If i can get an oil cooler to fit and does not solve the problem the only next step i can think of is going to a BeCool or other aluminum rad w/electric fans.

All suggestions welcome.
 

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Try Kool-It. It help alot on my SCJ car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Try Kool-It. It help alot on my SCJ car.
thanks. i have some of the royal purple version of water wetter i plan on putting in. Bump..Anyone have suggestions/pics of a oil cooler in an FE application?
 

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is your overheating while driving or at idle--our 390 ran warm going down the road and we had a 4 core also---tried an aluminum
rad from mustang plus and it was about the same---i had john @ beko radiator in concord ,ca put a 4 core dimple tube tech copper radiator together and my problems have gone away while driving---the spal dual 11" fans fixed the low speed w/ac issues also
doctordesoto
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Dr. Desoto,

I did just visit the shop and i'ts obvious that an oil cooler is not going to fit without major mods to a very original car. Sounds like the same problem you had. Running hot down the road.

I've also reached the conclusion that the 4 core from MU is no better than the original one as problem is no better so my best option is going with a better rad. I'll check out Beko.

Thanks much!
 

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There have been lots of problems with brand new radiators from MU, Modine brand I think... It seems that man of the tubes are soldered shut. You might want to take your existing radiator to a shop and have them check it out. They can flow test it to see if it is restricted.

You might also check to make sure your vacuum advance is working, as the 390 runs pretty hot with too little advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like getting my original rad re-cored might be the way to go but i was wondering if there is a similar coolant restrictor plate on a 390 like there is on 351Cs. Never had overheating problems before the re-build but did change to aluminum heads and intake which i understand can add to the problem. So..anyone know if there is such a plate for a 390?
 

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There is no restricter plate on the FE. However, the thermostat is often a problem. Most of the thermostats offered today use a very small operating system that is then put in the center of a variety of different plates so they can make them as cheaply as possible. The problem with this is that the operating section is very small, and it restricts flow. The Mr. Gasket and Robert Shaw Thermostats use a larger three legged operating element that flows considerably more than the typical thermostat. I am assuming you are using this already as it has been discussed many times here already, but just in case...
 

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Both head gaskets on the correct way with coolant slots open at the rear on both sides? Silly I know but sometimes overlooked. How is the water pump? Rad hoses ok (with spring in bottom hose) to avoid collapse? If everything is ok I'd check the new rad like Bill suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Both head gaskets on the correct way with coolant slots open at the rear on both sides? Silly I know but sometimes overlooked. How is the water pump? Rad hoses ok (with spring in bottom hose) to avoid collapse? If everything is ok I'd check the new rad like Bill suggested.
not sure how to tell if head gaskets are on correctly but since it is only overheating on a hot day with a/c on combined with the overheating was a tad worse with the original rad (as compared to the MU 4 row) the problems does seems to be not enough cooling capillarity. All rad hoses are new. I'll see if i can find out what the builder did on the pump.

As per Bill's suggestion, i'll try a different thermostat before i pull the trigger on a new rad but sounds like this is (hopefully) the solution.
 
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