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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, what I thought was detonation from bad gas was two things. One, a noisy lifter, which is getting louder. And my new Accel Cap and Rotor had black paint on the tip of the rotor, where it hits the contacts!! So, now that I cleaned the cap/rotor, thats great, and the tapping noise I hear, was diagnosed by a mechanic as a lifter noise.

Now, people are telling me that Slick50 will fix that, and that its the best, one guy in auto school put it in an old car, drove it for 168miles and drained the oil, and drove it for another 150miles with no oil, and said the motor was fine for years after... so, is this stuff really worth it? Also, what do you think about Synthetic?

Thanks,

Chris

I am working a deal on getting a 429, and I am getting a prototype fuel injection system in one year, so I am trying to keep this motor until then.
 

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It's crap.

General Motors has a printed dealer service bulletin warning about the probable damage putting a bunch of TFE in the engine can cause. The claims on the can are complete boloney. Why not spend that $30.00 on a set of new lifters and some gaskets?

Slick 50, like any such oil additives are completely useless and will cause a plugged oil filter and / or engine internal passages. TFE will collect in the oil filter, rendering it useless.

Your friend who drove his car with no oil is either lying or not too bright.
 

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either fix it or live with it

Anytime you use an aditive rater than fix problem, you just create the potential for more problems ie: stop leaks for radiator, oil, transmission, etc.

Lifter noise never hurt anyone and is typical of higher milage engine. I saw post that indicated this engine maybe getting long in the tooth with some good advise from others. Refrencing Big Cam etc. Just drive it until you can rebuild or switch to 351W.

My Jeep has had lifter noise for the last 125,000 miles car now has 240,000 on it and runs fine with lifter noise.
 

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Chris, what alot of people sometime take as a bad lifter is actually caused by worn rocker balls and rockers.

With the positive stop rocker studs (non adjustable) when the rockers and balls get worn it allows the correct lifter preload to dissapear and allows the lifter to "tick".

I'm not saying that this is "your" problem but it could be and it is a simple, cheap fix if it is. mm
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mark, a few of the rockers do move left/right a little, is that what you mean? That would be great if it is only that!

Thanks

Chris
 

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I guess if the preload was gone you would maybe get a little more side to side out of them. mm
 

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Royce Peterson said:
General Motors has a printed dealer service bulletin warning about the probable damage putting a bunch of TFE in the engine can cause. The claims on the can are complete boloney. Why not spend that $30.00 on a set of new lifters and some gaskets?

Slick 50, like any such oil additives are completely useless and will cause a plugged oil filter and / or engine internal passages. TFE will collect in the oil filter, rendering it useless.

Your friend who drove his car with no oil is either lying or not too bright.
Does that include the Lucas Oil Addative. It says that it is just to make the oil retain better. ..
 

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dp-labs, are you the one who was filling up w/ 4 qt.s of oil and 1 qt of Lucas? I was wondering if that was a good idea when I read the post.

I used Slick 50 oiltreatment about 10+ years ago and stopped, mostly for the reasons that Royce stated. The older I get, the less and less I believe in "mechanic in a can" products.

Chris, if you think you hear a lifter, make sure it's not an exhaust leak you are hearing.
 

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Im with Royce on this. If it has TFE in it look out!! An oil addetive may be fine as long as it does not have Teflon in it.
 

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Here is my 2 cents. Used Slick 50 in 2 of my vehicles. Both had hydraulic lifters. The product did what it said it would do, left a teflon coating on the engine parts. This is not necessarily a good thing. The tolerances are very small in the lifter and it plugged them up so the lifter couldn't do what it was designed to do. I developed some serious lifter noise. I ended up removing the lifters and cleaning them. Took the lifters apart and removed all the crude that had accumulated off and returned the lifters to the engine. Had no more problems with either of those engines. I will not use Slick 50 again. I'm now using Prolong. I've got it in my vehicles, outboard, lawn tractors, air compressor and the rest of my gas motors. I'm very pleased as they are all running strong. One of the tractors is a 1975 Simplicity with the original motor. The outboard is a 1984 Suzuki and it runs like it was new.
 

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rjf said:
dp-labs, are you the one who was filling up w/ 4 qt.s of oil and 1 qt of Lucas? I was wondering if that was a good idea when I read the post.

I used Slick 50 oiltreatment about 10+ years ago and stopped, mostly for the reasons that Royce stated. The older I get, the less and less I believe in "mechanic in a can" products.

Chris, if you think you hear a lifter, make sure it's not an exhaust leak you are hearing.

RIGHT!...............I've been fooled twice! I'd Check this out first.
 

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I saved $2800 by using a can of liquid engine rebuild!...Just kidding. Anyone who wants to "save a buck" by pouring in a can of additive rather than truly fixing the problem gets what they pay for...more problems that cost more money than they would have if repaired properly in the first place. I'm cheap....but not THAT cheap. Pat
 

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If any of those miracle products did what they claim auto manufacturers would include them in every new car. Don't be a chump. Falling for that kind of bogus advertising just takes money out of your pocket and may actually hurt your engine.

Follow the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals using good quality oil and filter. Anything else costs you more money with no benefits.
 

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cmpcpro said:
Mark, a few of the rockers do move left/right a little, is that what you mean? That would be great if it is only that!

Thanks

Chris
It sounds like you've got the rocker covers off, so first look at all the rocker arms and make sure that oil has been flowing through the pushrods, through the holes in the pushrod sockets on the rocker arm and onto the rocker fulcrums, and so forth. If any of the rocker fulcrums looks drier than the others that one is most likely the culprit. I went through this on a 260 once. If you're using stock rocker arms, not full roller rockers, there will be some slight side play in some of the rockers.

If you do find one that seems to be not oiling properly, bring that cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and check the valve adjustment. If the pushrod can be rotated easily then the rocker arm and fulcrum may be worn because of the oil starvation and should be replaced, but you're not done yet. The souce of the oil starvation must be addressed or the rocker fulcrum will rapidly wear out again.

Remove the pushrod and make sure that it isn't clogged. If it is, either replace it with a new one or clean out the bore and reuse it. Re-adjust the valve. If this doesn't fix the problem, remove the intake manifold. It isn't necessary to remove the carb from the manifold first. Remove the lifter and examine it. In my case the problem was immediately evident: a small amount of slime (goo, snot?) blocking the oil hole in the top of the lifter. In my case I had some new lifters lying around, so I replaced the clogged lifter, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them all. That was the cure in this instance.

Of course all of this would have been unnecessary if I had only been adding a small amount of ACETONE to my gas on every fill up. Silly me! (JUST KIDDING HERE :klo:)
 

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From what I can tell there is no teflon.

It does not say that it corrects anything, or repair anything, all it "supposedly does" is make the oil stick to the moving parts better so dry starts dont happen, and things stay lubed better.

SO Should I stop using it?

I am really not looking to foul anything up.
 

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dp-labs.com said:
From what I can tell there is no teflon.

It does not say that it corrects anything, or repair anything, all it "supposedly does" is make the oil stick to the moving parts better so dry starts dont happen, and things stay lubed better.

SO Should I stop using it?

I am really not looking to foul anything up.
It probably hasn't hurt anything. It's probably something like STP. On the other hand, it's not helping your valve train clatter, so why continue to use it?

Since it's a high mileage engine with (presumably) stock heads, another possibility is that one of the press-in rocker studs has started to work its way out of its socket in the head. Lay a straight edge along the tops of the rocker studs and see if any of them stand higher than the rest of them. If so, you can pull out the stud and replace it with a new stud. What kind of engine is it, anyway?
 

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Also check the valves for any kind of "mushrooming" where it meets the rocker. That was a problem I had a few years ago.
 

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Its actually not a high mileage engine ... just redone by idiots.

Yeah they are stock heads on there, but the reason I use it is I was told it will keep the engine nicer llonger.

Guess I might as well stop .... if it is not worht the 7 buck :icon16:

Never heard of the straight edge thing .... good stuff. I will have to give that a try.

What to do if they are mushrooming?

Replace the mushroomed ones, all, or is there a fix for it?
 
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