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Discussion Starter #1
I've read several other of the "no sparK" situations on the board and applied what I read still to no positive result. Your input is anxiously awaited. I'm revamping a 351 W in a 67' XR7 hence all the new parts up front to try and avoid any other problems in the future. Let me list what I have done so far and your suggestions can go from there...

New:
Points (and gapped them to 28), condensor, rotor, dist cap, solinoid, voltage regulator, battery, battery cables (both + and -), new braided grounding strap (and removed any paint/debris where it grounds to the head and the firewall), new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, checked/cleaned/tightened and grounded all my ground wires to starter/solinoid.

Checked and rechecked:
yep, frame is grounded, power goes into coil but nada comes out of coil (via test light and mutlimeter), hooked jumper line from + battery to + coil and voltage regulator did it's little "click click" but did start up the beast. Hooked up a bigger cable and attached - battey to starter ground and didn't start the beast either. Reinstalled the dash to combat the "netirious tach problem of not being hooked up. Checked and re-re aligned the neutral safety switch and yep it only tries to turn over in the 2 proper gears.

I looked up under the dash and the previous owner (Mr. Handy Wirecutter (known as SLASH in his neighborhood I'm sure) did a total Texas Chain Saw Massacre reenactment to the main wiring harness so I'm also in the market for that (of a 67 XR7). The ignition switch was also not tightened down all the way with the collar fitting it to the dash. Don't know if that has to be grounded but it is secured now.

It cranks all day long but not even a flicker of a spark to be seen.

Only thing I haven't tried so far is praying to the ALL MIGHTY COUGAR GODS! Guess that's you guys huh?
 

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If you have voltage going to the coil and none coming out, I would think coil! With ign. sw. on and points closed, take a stick and lift the one side of the points ans see if you get a spark, if no spark, bad coil or condenser, I have had bad new condensers .
 

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Did you gap the points with the rubbing block on the peak of the cam lobe? If the points open and close, the coil will make a spark if it has power. A picture of how you have everything hooked up is invaluable.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yes... I setup the points on the peak of the cam lobe to 28 gap and they open and close just fine when cranking the engine. I tried closing the points and seperating them with a stick (thanks Towcat) and nada. I did a little more "prying into the solution" and discovered I had replaced (as I usually do on a new victim) both my battery cables BUT forgot to replace the one from the - side of the starter relay to the starter. Someone had wrapped it so very, very nice with electric tape. I removed the cable and cut the electric tape and viola, major corrision. Nice shades of rusty browns, greens and even some funky black goop entertwined with the remaining copper in the cable. So, to the store I go later this morning and we'll see what happens when I install the new starter cable.

My Mother-in-law has our family's camera currently (I think only she knows why) but I'll snag an instamatic one when in "the big city."
 

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Michial,
I think the point gap should be more like .017. Dwell is different.....28 to 30 degrees if I remember. At .028 gap the points may be staying open, that's why no spark. close the points down to .017 and with the key on, try placing a rubber handle screw driver at the point gap and see if there is spark.

Steve
 

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Yes... I setup the points on the peak of the cam lobe to 28 gap and they open and close just fine when cranking the engine. I tried closing the points and seperating them with a stick (thanks Towcat) and nada. I did a little more "prying into the solution" and discovered I had replaced (as I usually do on a new victim) both my battery cables BUT forgot to replace the one from the - side of the starter relay to the starter. Someone had wrapped it so very, very nice with electric tape. I removed the cable and cut the electric tape and viola, major corrision. Nice shades of rusty browns, greens and even some funky black goop entertwined with the remaining copper in the cable. So, to the store I go later this morning and we'll see what happens when I install the new starter cable.

My Mother-in-law has our family's camera currently (I think only she knows why) but I'll snag an instamatic one when in "the big city."
I don't want to burst your bubble but, a new starter cable is not going to make spark at the coil, may help starter turn better . Good luck and keep us informed of what you find. PS set points to .017
 

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When you said you set the points to 28 in the first post, did you mean 28 degrees of dwell? If so, then that would be correct. This must be measured with a dwell tachometer.
 

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You should have 8-10 volts to the +coil with the key on (run), 12+ volts with the key in the starting or cranking position.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
GREAT and Thanks GUYS for the point gap info. I did indeed look at the dwell column instead of the point gap column. Towcat, right again... I'd didn't mamke the car magically start by replacing the cable but I did have a happier day until I installed it and found that out. I also purchased a CrapsMan (CRAFTSMAN) voltage meter and have been learning to do now what I should have learned long ago... Check it, clean or repair it, start it and enjoy it. I had a neighbor come over and because the main wiring harness (with the fuse box) is so badly butchered there a huge chance that uncapped hot wires could be wreaking havoc and a fire might occur. I need a new ( or used and tested) main wiring harness for a 67' XR7 before I can get Frankenstein running safely. (Named because of all the butchered parts and pieces that seem to hold this car together.) Hey, my wife named it and not me. You don't want to know the name she really wanted to call it when I brought it home. :)

So it looks like I'll have to be content with doing the other million things to this car (headliner, brakes, upholestry, etc...) till I can find a reasonably priced main harness. So far no luck on epay or c-list locally.

Thanks for the help and I'll reset the points to 17 and try it one more time (and try to not short the entire electrical system in the meantime.)
 

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You can try WCCC or Randy Goodling for a wiring harness. My harness was hacked up as well and I was able to get one from Randy (CATHOUSE of this Forum). I don't remember the price right now, but it was worth it.

Good luck,
Paul
 

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Be willing to drop the coin on a new harness, whatever the reasonable price is. People generally start hacking and repairing when there is a problem somewhere. Who knows what is waiting in there?
Spend the money, install it, and move on with enjoyment.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Amen to that!!!

Thing is I have 2 67' XR7s, my all original one (all the paperwork since day one from the previous owner and NOT the car I am working on) has the most perfect wiring harness and connectors I've ever seen. The other car (Frankenstein) must have had the life of an abused dog. Poor guy doesn't have 2 matching bolts on his entire frame. The wiring looks more like a tangle of fishing line after my nephew tries to cut his way out of it and I just felt sorry for the car. I do know that the ol' attention is now focused on another vehicle until a get another harness. A 69' XR7 with (all paperwork since day one) 351w, auto, power windows, tilt, power disk brakes, AC and a rear defogger) that needs some cancer taken off and a paint job (I call it that "Pimp Daddy Gold" color but not sure what it is really called) pretty bad.

I sure appreciate all the help and guidance! It's sometimes difficult to get a good perspective on something when your into up to you eyeballs and thinking to yourself, "Why is it everytime I get so close to completing my task, the primary part (that all the others depend on) suddenly, magically quits working." Ahh the life of a Classic Cougar owner.
 

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I have a friend that has a sideline business in restoring Mustang and Cougar wiring harnesses. PM me if you would like his contact info.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE:
Still shopping for a reasonably priced XR7 Main Harness but in the meantime I followed instructions from you guys and the OHHHHHHHMMMM <grin> meter indicated the Ignition switch. Brand new Ignition switch from Advanced Auto Parts later and we have spark! Spark from the switch to the coil, from the coil to the distributor, to the points but far as I can tell not to the spark plugs... I plugged in the gauges (for the tach) but still no power to the plugs. I'll use the ohm meter to check the condensor, the wires for resistance and talk to the car nicely and who knows. All new stuff BUT THE WIRES AND PLUGS.

P.s. at one time that resistance wire in the distributor (little puny one) was pressed down against the dist plate. I raised that up before but wondered if maybe it needs to e replaced? (doesn't look frayed or damaged.)

Any input is appreciated.
 

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Install a jumper from the coil + to the battery + and it should start.
 

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I can't tell you HOW to do it, but do recall my father in cases like yours he would run temporary wires BY-PASSING the Ign switch and other stuff to see if the problem was somewhere in the wiring. If it ran then he would have a better idea as to where to look. This would be Like someone starting an engine that is out of a car. Just bare basic wires that are needed to fire the engine.

Just a thought.

Dale in Indy

P.S. I see Royce is thinking the same process. TWO GREAT MINDS, HUH.................hehehe.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I hear ya guys...
Bad thing: getting dark and BIG MESQUITOES here in TEXAS.
Good thing: In the garage, all safe and snuggly (my wife typed in the last part) :)

I don't have mufflers on it yet so the neighbors in my small town my lynch me. I'll attack it at first light.

P.S. Had a guy rebuild the Holley 4150 I think, and after I tried to start it previously it sneezed out the carb. Moved the distributor and didn't sneeze as much. I put a new front end on it so I hope I knew what I was doing.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I know I set that timing chain up right. Went out there and man does she want to start... The previous owner had a throttle linkage that was too short so I took that off just now (pulling the throttle back some and trickling in gas. This last time I tried to start it it almost did but then there were small flames coming out of the secondaries, that I smothered out with a rag... Might have been a buildup from the short linkage and previous throttle pumping. Dang thing has me paranoid now. I'm so close...
 
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