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Discussion Starter #1
Well, my brakes went out yesterday, pretty sure it's just my brake booster.

So anyone got any ideas on how I shold go about fixing this? It happened to me about 8 years ago and I sent the booster in to be rebuilt since it was too expensive at the time to buy a new one (I was in high school).

I also need to get new rotors and brake pads so I'm thinking maybe I should do a complete brake overhaul, bigger rotors (maybe even slotted), dual calipers (which would mean a bigger booster I'm assuming.

Again my car is a 68 XR7. What would you do if you were me? And where would you get the parts to do it?
 

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If got the cash go with 13" system, if not new booster. Slotted/Crossdrilled arnt really needed if useing a good non-organic pad.
 

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Is the brake pedal hard or going to the floor. Usually a booster causes the pedal to be hard. There is a decent supply of rebuilt boosters out there unless you can find a used one. If pedal is low look for leak or master cylinder problem.
Bigger brakes are always better but not always cost effective. I was surprised the last time I bought new rotors that regular rotors were over $100 each.
 

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$100 a each you mean a set? Either way ouch I can get stocks for $50 and CrossDrilled for $90. Course my Pads do out last my rotors:cry:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The pedal gets hard, I'm pretty sure this is the booster. For a couple weeks prior, whenever I would press the brake it sounded like air was leaking.

Now the pedal is very hard and when I step on it the engine idols like their is a vacuum leak somewhere, so again it comes back to the booster.

I had this problem 8 years ago and had it rebuilt and reinstalled for about $300. Maybe I can do the work myself this time and save some dough. Anyone ever take out there booster and then put it back in?

By the way...what's a 13" system?
 

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Yup, that's the booster, when you pull it out check if there is any brake fluid in the booster, if there is, replace the master cylinder as well...You should probably replace them both for safety's sake...
just my opinion..

Bruce
 

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Bruce is giving good advice, if the booster dies it is often caused by a slight leak at the rear of the master cylinder. When I pull off bad boosters I often find the brake booster has fluid in it that has rotted out the diaphragm.

Royce
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hopefully this weekend I can pull it out and take a look.

Either way, anyone know a good price for a rebuild or where I can buy a new one? Also, someone mentioned a 13" system and I'm still not sure what that is.

Thanks.
 

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13" rotors, not knowing your hub pattern dont know if it exsists, but for my 96 excluding the 17" rims need to clear runs about $1500-$2000.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm gonna get a new brake booster and master cylinder...it's looking like it's going to cost @ $350.

I'm also looking at getting the Stainless Steel Brake System (rotors, calipers, pads) from Mustang Depot - http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/SSBC/a2360001.htm

Anyone else ever bought these or anything from Mustang Depot? Or anyone got any better ideas?
 
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