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The switch is fixed against the flat on the brake push rod. When you press the pedal the angle of the switch is changed in relation to the pushrod. The flat part of the pushrod is no longer parallel with the body of the switch.
That's how I perceived it to work. As it rotates, either the top or bottom of the flat rod end actuates the switch. Unfortunately, my switch and rod move in tandem, never triggering the switch. My stock switch (the one in the car when I bought it 20yrs ago) still works. I bought a new switch and it acts the same way.

The bushing must be larger diameter than the pedal arm pin so that the pedal moves forward within in to bring the switch into contact with the pushrod.

So either the bushing is too small, or the assembly is too tight.
My bushing is an exact fit between the pedal pin and the rod. So I need a thinner bushing to allow a little bit of play between the bushing and the pedal pin?

(BTW, the switch freely rotates on the pedal pin. there's no stay/stop that holds it in place. Is this correct?)
 

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....

My bushing is an exact fit between the pedal pin and the rod. So I need a thinner bushing to allow a little bit of play between the bushing and the pedal pin?
I was going by the diagram, it looks that way. If your bushing has play inner or outer, the function would be the same. Flush to outside with play inside, or flush to inside with play outside.

It has to be no wider than the gap in the switch mount arms though, to move in between them.

(BTW, the switch freely rotates on the pedal pin. there's no stay/stop that holds it in place. Is this correct?)
The switch should remain horizontal by the flat end of the pushrod. Too much gap there would also be a problem. It should be close to flush.
 

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Here is a good pic of the Mustang, the Cougar is more crowded under there. Looks like I forgot to push the retaining clip all the way in last weekend when I mounted up the switch.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/25669938413/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_2225"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1593/25669938413_57dc7ca216_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_2225"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 

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Are those power brakes? I have 3"-4" of rod showing between the switch and the rubber boot. Ill order the spacer from WCCC and hope that fixes the problem cuz I thats all I got left to try! I wonder if my 68 has the wrong master cylinder/rod assembly in it..........
 

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Well.......got the new bushing in. Still didn't fix the problem. Ill switch out the old switch for the new switch later today and see what I get. If that doesn't work, I may have to install a generic switch up top seeing there's a bracket there for it?!
 

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Woo Hoo! My brake lights work! The new bushing didn't help with the new switch or the old switch. Turned the switches right side up and upside down. Nada! Ended up removing the bushing altogether and they worked! Both switches work without the bushing. (Previous attempts to fix brake lights were before new turn signal switch replacement :( ) Everything I've seen shows a bushing in the rod end. This leads me to think that the PO may have installed an incorrect push rod! I will be exploring this shortly.
 

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Good news! - But you will need something to keep things more solid and dependable. At least you have it narrowed down - should be easy to deal with now......
 
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