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At the K11 connector, there are 4 wires:
57b - Black - Ground
476 - Green - Output to brake lights
475 Green-white - Input From Brake light Switch
474 Red - Input 12V From CB2

The K11 relay is a normally open relay. The trigger wire #475 is only powered when the brake pedal is depressed. Internally, 475 powers a coil and closes the connection between 474 (which is always HOT) and 476 to send power out to the brake lights.

The K10 Emergency Relay is also located in the trunk on the cardboard floor protector. If your sequential motor has been replaced with a solid state unit, then the K10 is not required and may have been removed.

The ground wire is usually under the taillamp boards near the gas tank filler neck.

I hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

Coach Jack
 

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On the k11 then if they had jumped 475 (green-white) input from brake lite switch to 476 (green) out to brake lights then I guess it would work but they would be running off the voltage /current amount from the brake light switch and not tapping into the 474 red/ CB2 for power. Is that thought correct? Just a side note is that they look normal in brightness. Looks like I need a K11 to make it right as it wont work without the jumper. I'll try to bench check it. Would this arrangement be hard on the brake pedal switch?


Can K10 partially fail and cause the outboard (#3) turnsignals not to work when sequencing? I'm also suspecting some bad looking wiring. Whole trunk harness was spliced some time long ago. No solid state stuff yet. sequential motor is working perfect somehow...
 

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I would go through the old splices first - ohm them out for continuity if they looked to be well done. If they look cobbled - I'd redo them by soldering them back together and heatshrink the connections. Good youtube video's on how to if you not familiar. That way you know you have a solid foundation to work with for further testing..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9G9gaokqvM
 

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On the k11 then if they had jumped 475 (green-white) input from brake lite switch to 476 (green) out to brake lights then I guess it would work but they would be running off the voltage /current amount from the brake light switch and not tapping into the 474 red/ CB2 for power.
- Yes, in fact in the 67 design change this is exactly how it works.

The brake lights and the turn signal lamps will be the same brightness. The taillamp bulbs are dual filament bulbs, one used for the headlamps/parking lamps and the other shared for the turn signals / brake lights.

The inner and outboard taillights each have their own wires coming from the sequential motor to the K10 relay. You can bypass the K10 relay by connecting the inner wires Yellow together and the outer wires Yellow-black together. If the outers start working, then the K10 is suspect.

Coach Jack
 

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The 67 Sequential Turn Signal and Emergency Flasher Systems guide shows that this is the only ground in the trunk for the taillights.

I looked at my 67 last night and verified that is the only ground in the trunk (besides the bulbs themselves being grounded at the socket to the taillamp panel).

Coach Jack
 

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Good stuff here. I second making it a sticky.
Question 1: is there any easy way to identiy an "early" or "late" Cougar?
Question 2: are we sure that power disc brakes use a different switch than manual drum? On a 67.
I changed from drum to power disc and bought all the parts from WCCC including the pedal assembly. They didn't send me a switch and I used the old one. Can't test because the car isn't quite far enough together and at the paint shop (yeah). I really don't want to go I there again...
 

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Billy,

The definitive way to see if your car is an early build 67 is to check your build date with the vin decoder from Cougar Club if America http://cougarclub.org/vindecoder-introduction.aspx. Cougars built prior to Jan 03 1967 are the "early" 67s.

However mods to the brake circuits may have been performed so look at the junk in the trunk as the K11 brake relay (if so equiped) will be to the left of the sequential motor.

Due to the different brake pedal fulcrum lengths, I believe that there are different brake light switches between Manual and Power brakes. Oddly enough I looked back through my installation instructions for my setup from Master Power Brakes and it does not mention the brake light switch nor did the kit come with one as well. I converted my power drum system to power discs so lucky for me, I did not have to modify the brake support for the longer pedal and I reused my old switch.

Coach Jack
 

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Due to the different brake pedal fulcrum lengths, I believe that there are different brake light switches between Manual and Power brakes. Oddly enough I looked back through my installation instructions for my setup from Master Power Brakes and it does not mention the brake light switch nor did the kit come with one as well. I converted my power drum system to power discs so lucky for me, I did not have to modify the brake support for the longer pedal and I reused my old switch.

Coach Jack
The switch difference is more due to the pedal force required to stop between manual and power. The power brake switch has a much lighter spring since it takes a lot less pedal effort to stop with power brakes.

Although a manual brake switch will fit a power setup, it is not recommended. Reason being is under this scenario it is possible to be braking without the brake lights coming on if the (power brake) pedal effort is not enough to actuate the (manual brake) switch.

P.S. Thread stuck as suggested.

Regards,

Robert
 

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:jump3: You won the battle!
 

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I had this problem in my 67 and it was the brake light switch. They had worked when I bought the car and then just stopped one day. There is nothing worse than trying to replace this switch on a Cougar with a clutch pedal. I had the seat out of the car laying on my back under the dash with my feet up on the back seat and there was no way to get my hand between the clutch, steering column, and brake to get at this damn thing. I got it eventually but really never want to again.
 

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could someone maybe explain to me how the mechanics of this switch work? I don't see any way for the rod to actuate the switch to engage it.
Im in the same boat! My switch and electrical is good. Lights all work. The Master cylinder rod doesn't activate the switch when you push on the pedal. The manual shows a bushing between the rod and the gas pedal pin, yet the posted diagram doesn't show a bushing. Which is it?
 

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Yeah, seen that pic too. That's for power brakes, but still shows a bushing. I have manual brakes, straight push rod, and bushing. The rod and switch seem to move together and the switch is never activated. It doesn't work with or without a rod bushing.

I finished rebuilding the dash harness & column. Everything works. Brake lights work jumpered out, and with the switch unmounted and activated with my thumbs.

Hummm..........
 

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The configuration is for Manual OR Power, the bushing action does not change. The switches may be different, but your manual could use either.


http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9zz-13480-a.html

The bushing must be larger diameter than the pedal arm pin so that the pedal moves forward within in to bring the switch into contact with the pushrod.

So either the bushing is too small, or the assembly is too tight.
 

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The power brake switch, if used with manual brakes, is too sensitive. It will hang on when you least expect it and either melt the wiring or run your battery flat.

The manual brake switch, if used with power brakes, will never work.

Either way you need the bushing.
 

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By the way that drawing is terrible, it does not show what actually happens to make the switch actuate.

The switch is fixed against the flat on the brake push rod. When you press the pedal the angle of the switch is changed in relation to the pushrod. The flat part of the pushrod is no longer parallel with the body of the switch.
 
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