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Hey everyone as always great info here! Were doing a motor swap in a 68 with a 302 from a 86 so we got the old timing cover on well be using the old water pump and staying with mechanical fuel pump have 4 bolt pullety ordered !converted to carburated also have converted to front sump pump and oil pan! now finailly my question is what can I plug the old oil stick hole with? and how do I plug the 2 holes in the back of the heads from emisions?And is there any thing else to condsider in a motor swap as this? oh And ordered the 157 tooth 50 flex plate for the c4
 

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Heads are 7/16 or 5/8 standard thread so just run a bolt in there and you should be good.

Driver's side oil dipstick hole is 3/8 IIRC, just run a bolt in there with some sealer...

Remember that your new motor is 50 in/oz imbalance and pre-80s are 28 in/oz, so use the appropriate damper and flexplate or you'll have a case of the shakes!!!
 

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Oh, and be careful of which way the water pump rotation is! Serpentine belt cars used a reverse-rotation water pump and if you use that on a 'normal' car, you'll have overheating issues!!!
 

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+2 - watch which side the radiator is on compared to you water pump too....otherwise it's a very worthwhile swap since your getting away from flat tappet cam problems.....mechanical pump will require correct timing cover unless yours has the hole cutout in it? Since you going automatic the lack of the boss for manual won't matter unless you change your mind later on....but they make a nice adaptor for that
 

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I just cut the original 5.0L dip stick tube and filled the end with sealant. I'm curious about the 4 bolt crank pulley that you ordered. Can you post the link for where you bought it? I ended up having to have a pulley machined from aluminum in order to get my three "V" belts to line up (this was back in 1988).

You're going to have a problem seeing the timing marks on your 5.0L harmonic balancer. The timing mark location on the 5.0L engine is on the passenger side. Before you get the engine buttoned up, find TDC on cylinder #1 and install a timing tape or relocate the timing marks to the driver's side of the balancer. Because I have factory A/C and the idler pulley is in the way, I can't shine the timing light at the normal location. I ended up having to invert the '68 timing pointer and use a mirror on the ground to shine the light up at about the 5:00 o'clock position of the balancer (standing at the bumper, looking aft).

You MUST use a billet steel distributor gear with your billet steel roller camshaft. I upgraded to a Duraspark II ignition, so I'm using an '85 Mustang GT distributor that comes with a billet steel gear. The manual transmission, 4 barrel cars use the Duraspark II. I don't think the auto trans, throttle body injection '85 Mustangs do. The '86 and up EFI distributor gear is billet steel, but the distributor shaft dia is larger and won't work. I originally used a brass distributor gear, but it lasted about 2 months before the gear teeth wore down paper thin, it jumped a tooth and left me stranded about 2 hours from home.

The '86 motor still has a fuel pump eccentric even though it has an electric pump. Maybe it's still there for balance purposes. It is either shorter or longer than a '68 eccentric. I can't remember the exact issue, but it had something to do with either rubbing the inside of the timing chain cover or not completely sitting on the mechanical fuel pump arm. Just something to be aware of.

I just found this too. Good info: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=133961
 
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