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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Cougar fans,

Well I am new to classic car buying and am wondering what I need to look out for when buying a classic car such as a sweet Cougar? I am looking to buy a daily/weekend driver. Money wise: If there was one part of the car that was wrong what would be the least expensive to repair or replace? For example: Let say we find 2 Cougars that are in our budget. One is straight, runs good, Interior is in good condition, all lights work, but it has a little rust, is poorly painted and is missing the trim/weather striping. The other Has a new paint job which was done right, zero rust, New tires/wheels, Looks real good on the outside, but the interior needs work, lights don’t work, and the suspension is shot to hell. Which of these would cost the least to have fixed? I know very little about how to fix cars. I can do general Tune up type things but I have zero experience with any major undertakings so anything major would have to be taken to a shop to have done.

Another question I have is what should my budget be. If I can afford to buy a Cougar for 5,000 should I over budget say to 7k to fix her up to a daily/weekend driver....I plan on buying a car to have a lot of fun with now and then fixing her up right with a total frame off restoration. Any general advice to a rookie would be a great help.

Thanks,
Jason
 

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Welcome to the best cougar forum in the world!!!!
A good running/looking cougar will be between 5K and 10K depending on a lot of things...options,milage,condition and so on... I got my redcar for 6K it was an aging restoration but still in great shape, no rust but a few quirks, Tiffany Blue cat I won't talk about.... for obvious reasons here (see story on front page) it too had some things that needed to be done. The whole thing with owning a classic cat is the joy of keeping and bring it up to your own likeing. that is half the fun. For a total investment of 7k should have one fine Cat. if you can do the work yourself you save that much more money. Me , I'm pretty good mechanically but there are stil things i leave to a professional. Paint... forget it i couldn;t paint my way out of a paper bag. i guess my point is if find that cat that you just can't live without... go for it... but have it cheked out by a pro if your not comfortable with your own expertise. As many here will tell you.a cat is always under construction in one way or another..... it's a labor of love.
Oh and keep in mind these cars are 30+ years old, but the more original they are, the better, stay away from cats that have been modded extensively if your not prepared to work alot on them.

all of this is of course.... my humble opinion

Don
 

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Just say no to rust. Anything else can be fixed relatively easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originals

Mostly Original cars are better? Hrmm shows you what I know. I assumed anything would be better then 30+ old parts.

What is your opinion of these two cars?

http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/6/2/31347162.htm

It is within my budget. Very little info has been given in the add. Picture is not the best. It states its all original and in good running condition. Lets assume I was to get this car looked over by somebody and they said it was all on the up and up.

Vs This car

http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/9/0/37201190.htm

Looks as if a bunch of work has been done to the engine. Custom paint job (note the two tone colors) Lets assume this car is also on the up and up.

Which of these would you choose and why.

Thanks,
Jason
 

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I like the first one better.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One last question

I love the hide-away headlamps.....on most cars you guys come across do they still work? Are they hard to fix if they dont? I know RS Camaro's most of the time work either half way or not at all.

Thanks again
Jason


PS I notice you guys have alot of cars in your signatures...and pics?
 

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First one looks straighter

Mechanical stuff is far easier to fix than panels. Go for an original car with no rust and all the others can be done over time. Interior trim is generally available or can be duplicated by a good classic car upholsteror.

The only problem with the headlights is generally the motor (1 on 69/70, 2 on 67/68) and they are rebuildable. 67's have a switch in the engine bay that is not available so you have to convert to 68 set up

Be warned - Cougars are infectious and they keep multiplying.
 

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Jason... I may have what you're looking for, in your price range. One of our club members has A 390 big block xr7 convert AND a parts car, you can get both of them for around what you're asking. Best part, they're up here in Dallas, not half way across the world... They're both not in bad shape either...

Send me a email if you're interested at [email protected] and I'll hook you up with the right folks...
 

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Listen to Logan,
There seem to be a lot of cougar folks in texas... Plus I'm sure DFE club can check it out and save you a drive...my .02



Besides a 'Vert would be SWEET!!
Don
 

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Thinking of a cougar huh. Good choice! but beware it could get under your skin. Like everything else it could snowball and before you know it you have a healthy investment. Take me for instance after I get my xr7-G out of the paint shop, bumper's rechromed, the tire's I want for it I'll be close to $30,000. Is the car worth it. No I would think not. But as the old saying go's If it feel's good do it. Ah maybe that's not the expression I'm looking for, how about it's my dang car and I'll do what I want . My case it's for the love of the car and the hobby. It's called car crazy.... good luck!
Jon
 

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SIX FOOT, I'm a fellow Texan , and I recomend pulling the trigger on buying a classic Cougar. The past 3 years I hem hawed around telling myself I didn't really need it and it might be a money pit idea. 3 months ago I saw this one less than 1/2 mile from my house and told myself that if I didn't buy it I would regret the rest of my life. I drive mine everyday to the office and leave my new 2001 chev silverado parked at the house. I have not regretted the decision yet! I get withdrawal symptoms if I don't take it for a spin everyday. On the weekends and after work I'm always tinkering with it which brings me great joy. Its not work to me but a new hobby. I'm not real mechanical but find myself tackling projects on it that I thought I never would. People stop me in parking lots to look at the car and admire it which they never do with my truck. I paid $4300 for my car and will be soon fixing the front end and with other maintenance items have about $1000 worth of work and parts in it. But I know if I ever resell I should get it all back. Happy Hunting!
 

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And before you know it you might own 2... or 3..... or 4..... aghhhhhh somebody stop me!!!!!! LOL


Don
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the advice

I cant wait till I get my first car. I wont be purchasing untill April I am just trying to get some questions I have answered for now. I love reading the boards about things you guys are doing with your Cats. I have Logan's 69 XR7 -351 Clevor as my desktop at work. Sweet lookin car he has there. Too Bad I cant afford it.

Im leaning towards a 68 or a 70 Cat. ANy pros and cons you guys have with regards to those two cars?

Thanks
Jason
 

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Parts are easier to find for a 68. The part of the hood that hangs down on a '70 when the hood is up gives me a headache when I bump into it.
 

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Engine's in the 68's were limited. You either got 289's, 302's or jumped to 390's or 428's...

In the 70 model year, the base motor was a 351c or 351w for early cars. More power than the 302, but then again, lots of aftermarket for 302's, limited aftermarket for 351c's...

Aside from that it's generally a styling decision on your part, which one you like better.

Personally, while I can appreciate the 67/68 cats, I can't see myself owning one... A 70, maybe (But I hate the darn claw), so for me, you'll probably only ever see me in a 69...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
another question

IS the complete black out grill (like Logans 69) only available on the 69's or are other years available with the complete black out front?

Thanks again,
Jason
 

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RUST
 

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I like them all, but here are my pics:

1967 XR-7. I like the exterior "hash marks" it's a little more distinctive than the 1968.

1968 GT-E or any 428CJ. They are all rare. Fast and light.

1969 convertible. 1st year conv., cleaner "purer" design IMHO. Lighter, less overhang than 70 cats. No 70 fang brain damage LOL. Choice of FEs.

1970. The seats are better. (69 Eliminators did have the good high back seats also) I also like the 70 only Houndstooth version. Rarer than 1969s. Choice of 351s.

1971. 429CJ. One year only. Possibly the nicest interiors.

1972/73 Probably the best bargains out there.

They are all good! Whatever works for you is what counts.

Tim Brandsoy
http://members.aol.com/timbrands/index.html
 

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Re: another question

SixFootFive99 said:
IS the complete black out grill (like Logans 69) only available on the 69's or are other years available with the complete black out front?

Thanks again,
Jason
The 69 Eliminator had a blacked out grill (except for the center). The 70 Eliminator was all blacked out. Logan's is an 69 XR-7, it would have originally been chrome with only the background blacked out.

Tim Brandsoy
http://members.aol.com/timbrands/index.html
 
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