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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New Distributor... when do I let off the gas?

Well since I cant ride the bike today :( back to working on the Cougie!!!

I just put a new Mallory Unilite Distributor 4755101 on the 289 replacing the single point setup that was on there before. It took all of 15 minutes to yank the old one, put the new one in, re-attach wires, and shoot the timing. Did have all the wires shifted one spot to the right so she didnt fire on the first try, once I re-attached the wires in the correct order fired immediately.

Took it out for some test spins on the road and the results are amazing. The 289 had been rebuilt last year BP and Balanced, new cam, and rebuilt hi-po heads and I have never been able to get it past 4800 RPM. It would approach 4700 and start to stumble and then lay flat at 4800. This was upsetting because at 4400-4600 it seemed like it was just kicking in.

I ran it up to 5500 on these last test runs and wow. She is kicking... I didnt want to try to run it any more than that but she is still pulling and I have plenty of throttle left. Planning on taking it to the track this afternoon to run some ET's.

Any thoughts where I should set my rev-limit?
 

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Set it at 8500 and back it off 500 RPM after each explosion and rebuild.
 

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hahahahahaha :D

Depends on when you get valve float and where the power band is. My rebuilt 289 ended power around 5200rpm.

Rick
 

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I'd start at 5000 and work my way up in 250 rpm increments.
Sounds neat. I may have to get one of those distributors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestion Dallas... always wondered why I never stopped in the DFW area when I was driving cross country, now I know ;)

Dark,

Well thats kinda the question I have. I have no specs on the engine other than the receipts for the rebuild. I am wondering if I will hit rotational limits before I hit valve float. That was how I tested it when I bought it, I ran it flat out till it stopped making power but it only hit 4.8k. With this new distributor I am pulling hi fives before I get chicken and she is still pulling harder. I am wondering how much powerband I have left. At this time I am doing a 1-2 shift at 65 and 5500 RPM and took 2nd to 95 at 5500 RPM and not even going to try push 3rd except on the dyno or track. When I am in first I have pushed her to 5.8k and she is still going, going, going...

I would ask the machine shop that did the work but they are out of business :( which is why I was wondering about their work. The previous owners moved and I dont have their contact info, they did keep the last 20 years of receipts in a big box. The engine was rebuilt last spring and the receipt from the machine shop listed these items:
289 core and rot asbly $800
BP and Balance $250
Hi-Performance Cam, mch lift $220
Flat-Top Pistons & additional machine for valve rec. $375
Rebuild 1966 Hi-Po heads, 3 angle, comp springs, brass slv $350
Portland Performance Machine...

Looking at the work it seems they had decent intentions, I just dont know what the specs of the equipment were.

missed the the checkin time at the track today so I wasnt able to do any ETs. I will be taking her down to the local motorworks shop to do a rolling dyno and 1/4 simulation instead ($75). Thats what I am thinking will be the safe way to see where she sits right now and give me some accurate curves.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also just in case you are wondering I am running a 2.73 8" open rear, a supposedly rebuilt C-4 (no specs), and 205/70R14 tires.

The C-4 runs pretty tight and they definitely put a decent shift kit in it. I can shift at any speed and it slaps into gear pretty darn crisp.

The funny thing about the new distributor is that I can actually feel my secondaries open now on my carb (Edel 600). Used to I would be cruising in 2nd at 50 and I would gun it and it would go Bwahhh! a good solid pull but nothing exciting. Now it gets the ever so short delay and kicks Bwuh-Bwahhhhhhhhhhhh and you get the seat of the pants kick that keeps you there.

I was thinking of doing a stroker soon but now I am surprised at the way the engine now performs. I have a set of 1970 351W DOOE heads that I am porting and getting ready to throw on. I am wondering how they will help... or if they will.
 

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I wouldnt change a thing if you can spin it that high. Sounds like a very strong motor to me. Take it to a dyno and maybe they can even get more out of it. It sounds great, awesome :)

Rick
 

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With a stock crank and rods I wouldn't go beyond 6500, I'd probably set the limiter for 6K just to be safe.
 

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The EEC in most stock 5.0s have built in rev limits at 6250 and most of the folks on the EEC tuner list say to stay under 6k with stock parts.
 
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