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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I put a new 390 HP crate 302 and a TCI street fighter C4 with a B&M shifter into my 67 but haven't driven it hardly because of working out the little problems. One of my remaining issues is that it won't shift automatically. I can manually shift it into 1st or 2nd, and both behave as expected, but shift into drive and it just stays in second, or if I just start out in drive it stays in first.

I replace pretty much everything when I put the new motor and tranny in. New radiator, new flex plate, converter and shifter. I blew out the factory cooling lines and the vacuum line. I have also replaced the kickdown cable, with another factory style cable.

What am I missing? What would cause a new C4 to not shift?

Thanks for your help!
 

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Also take a look at the vacuum modulator :smoke:
 

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Hopefully it's the modulator and not a stuck or bad governor. Over-torque (it should only be 80-120 INCH POUNDS) or debris can bind the action.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have tried several adjustments on the kickdown cable, then replaced it, and it didn't make any difference.

How would I go about checking the modulator? Would I have to replace it?
 

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I'm not aware of any way to test the modulator, but since everything else you say is new i'd replace it just to cross it off the list. Be sure to NOT drop the pin when you pull the old one out :evil: :smoke:
 

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The modulator is cheap and easy to replace if you decide. Here is a screw in type which should be good for you:
White Stripe screw in

Ensure it is connected to full manifold vacum and not ported.

Should that not work, the governor can be inspected, but means removing the driveline and tailshaft cone.
 

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Here is my advice:

"Hello, TCI? I have this brand new C4 from you guys...".
 

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LOL...that's 'Vert, always keeping it simple. True that, or next time DIY, they are not that hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I sent TCI tech support an email when I first got it running, and they never replied. I'm in the middle of a big project at work, so I don't have much time to work on the car - so that has just dragged this out even farther.

I'll get under there and see which type of modulator it has now and order a new one. Pretty frustrating, I last drove the car in October and have had it all back together with the new stuff for probably 3 months, but haven't had much time to work out the problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll check out the vacuum as well. I'm pretty sure it's hooked up directly to the manifold, not a ported line on the carburetor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I finally got time to work on the car this morning. Put a new shift modulator on there (also from TCI, looks exactly like the one that came out) it didn't make any difference. No automatic shifting at all.

To recap, it is a new TCI C4 streetfighter, 70-82. Model 511200. It came with a printout showing flow, PSI and temps for the different gears and such. So, it must have all worked correctly when they built it. It seems like it must be something wrong with my install.

The cooling lines were blown out, the radiator is new, the hard vacuum line to the manifold is new, the motor is new, the vacuum is hooked to a T going to the manifold and the power brake booster only. The engine is runs smooth with plenty of vacuum. The kickdown arm is hooked to the factory setup, with a new replacement cable. The kickdown arm coming out of the transmission is spring loaded to go towards the front of the tranny, and with the return spring I have on there (like the old C4 was) pulls the arm towards the back of the transmission until wide open throttle which pulls the arm towards the front.

I have a very demanding job, so I don't have the time or focus during the week. I read the posting that bad69cat suggested, but that isn't the same symptoms mine is having.
 

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Looks like it's on to the governor, which is ultimately responsible for the up-shift.
Since manual works, the valve body should be fine.

Upshift is based on speed (centrifugal force on governor weights against springs open/expose fluid control passages in tailshaft) and only modified with vacuum (modulator).

Since everything works in manual select, they may have only tested the line pressure by manually running through the gears, or the fluid passages are now blocked, or the unit is torsioned in and binding governor movement.

Could be checked in-car at a shop, maybe call the vendor and see what the options are in having them foot the bill or ship it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got it to shift automatically this morning. Out of desperation, I just disconnected the kick down entirely, and it shifted fine. So the very first answer from ndtorque was correct. I am thinking the lever must be installed backwards. It is hanging down (like it was in the car when I bought it), but I'll bet it is supposed to be pointing up which would make it react the opposite of what it is now.

Thanks for all the advice, guys. Now I can move onto the front alignment then I am doing the interior.
 

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I got it to shift automatically this morning. Out of desperation, I just disconnected the kick down entirely, and it shifted fine. So the very first answer from ndtorque was correct. I am thinking the lever must be installed backwards. It is hanging down (like it was in the car when I bought it), but I'll bet it is supposed to be pointing up which would make it react the opposite of what it is now.

Thanks for all the advice, guys. Now I can move onto the front alignment then I am doing the interior.

:beer::beer::beer: I can see your smile from here ...
 

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That is good news, I am glad it didn't need to go to a shop. So the kickdown plunger was held down. It rotates counter clockwise, so 12 o'clock would be better than 6 with a pull-cable.

Do you think it ever really hit 3rd and stayed there?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am sure it got into third because I was going about 40 and manually shifted from drive into 2nd, and the RPM jumped like I expected. Shifting back into drive, the RPM dropped back down and the throttle was still responsive. However, I only drove the car a half mile or so.

The point about it rotating counter clockwise was what I was missing before. I knew it had to be something simple like that but let myself get influenced by how it had been hooked up before which was kind of dumb since I have found other things on the car that clearly were not done correctly.
 
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