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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys ,
So there I am ..... Gonna change out yhe Water pump on the cat.... Got a new one from NAPA and I start unboltin' everything.... Things are going smooth until..... Yeah the last bolt snapped:cry: I've tried everything to get the remaining stud/bolt out but "no joy" It is one of those long bolts that goes thru the timimg chain cover. I've tried heating it,doing the vise grip thing, smacking it with a hammer, even tried running the engine to heat up the block:rolleyes: But this thing isn't budging. I managed to get the water pump off but I'm afraid that if I install the new one it will leak where the missing bolt is.


Any Ideas


Don
 

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You may have to remove the timing cover to get it out. Neal.
 

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Do it right. Do not replace the water pump without replacing the stud. You will hate yourself if it leaks. How much of the stud is showing?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Oh I know it.....the problem is how...I intend to do it right.... after all I'm A TECH REP ( see other post). The question is ..... If I take off the timimg chain cover do I have to remove the harmonic balencer to get it off ?? I really didn't want go that far :mad: life suks ....it's raining, ole ladys out of town, and i only have one beer left.............. :mad: :mad: :mad: I hate permatex in excess!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There is about an inch and a 1/4 showing

Don:angryfi: :angryfi: :angryfi:
 

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Don, You have me confused. You were taking on of the long bolts out and the head snapped off but you still have an inch of bolt showing? If thats the case the threads are probably already unscrewed out of the block and the bolt is hung up on corosion inside the timing cover. You may just remove the timing cover and use a punch and drive the bolt out. mm
 

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When I used to wrench professionally I knew of a tool that looks like a large deep socket. It has pressure rollers on the inside. (I'm not talking about that cheap POS tool that is a multi socket. This tool is made for removing broken bolts. They come in sets and you can probably find them from a tool truck. ie Matco, Snap-On, Mac etc... They apply even pressure along the entire length of the stud in three or four places and really grab hold of the sucker. They have worked for me at times when I thought I was F**KED. They are worth their weight in gold. Be sure to WD-40 the thing down first. Sure beats drilling and taping. Good Luck.
 

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Soak it for a day or so with PB blaster or a good penetrant (not a lubricant). If you have that much of the showing use the right type of vise grips for smooth rounfd surfaces (Craftsman has a great one rather inexpensive, it has a relief on one side and a protrusion on the other, grips the bolt in three place). then take a BFH and hit the grips counterclockwise. That'll work.
 

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texrep-when removing the timingchain cover if I recall correctly you must remove the harmonic balancer on the 302&351W. That the way I remember it.
 

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It gets better, if it's a small block you have, the bottom of the timing chain cover bolts to the pan. This means, depending on how it goes, you may have to drop the pan as well. Aaahhh to joys of broken bolts!
 

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Well, you don't have to remove the oil pan. I did a water pump/ timing chain rebuild on my 302, and I just removed the 4 bolts under the timing cover and that worked fine!!!
 

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insult to injury...

tex, the heck with the bolt, go for more BEER!

and be sure to tell your wife that none of this would have happened if you had a big four-car garage!
 

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Was about to change out water pump too..

Now I'm feeling a little leary of attempting it - this week anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well... Bolt 6...Texrep 0

Still futching with it Man I wish my garage was built:angryfi:

Don
 

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Hey, if you pull the cover off and decide to replace the timing chain as jimk351 said, keep going and drop in a nice cam!!LOL
 
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