[CougarMan67]

Hey guys I just did a dyno tune and drove the car and everything was fine. I trailered the car home and pulled it into my garage. I replaced my power steering slave cylinder and then went to take it on its maiden voyage around the neighborhood when its just stumbled and failed to idle or have any kind of throttle response. So I took a KOEO reading and got code 66 MAF sensor voltage low. I cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner and returned everything back to normal and pulled the negative cable off my battery to reset the ECU. I went to start it again and it did the same thing...

So I metered the power, ground, return and signal wires and they were all good (voltage was good on power, ground was good on continuity to ground and all wires metered good continuity to the 60 pin connector.) The only thing I couldn't check was the voltage with the engine running, because it wont idle.

I replaced the spark plugs and wires as well and cleaned the O2 sensors, but still get the code. I have a PMAS sensor and its only seen maybe 2 hours of use with a new air filter. Maybe the sensor is bad? Or could it be something else? I've taken apart my entire air intake from the throttle body down to the air intake and reassembled and made sure everything was tightened down good.

I wrote PMAS and explained the situation so hopefully they'll exchange it for a replacement.

Another question is is that SCT makes a sensor BA-5000, with my SCT performance chip thats tuned for 30# injectors and a 30# MAF sensor would this be ok? Because I think with these electronic injectors (not a C&L which uses a tube) that you dont need the MAF sensor pre-tuned until 36#. Correct me if I'm wrong.

If I do need a new sensor, not housing, which would be a good, quick, cheap, replacement? ANy info would be good. Thanks forum guys!

 

[xr7g428]

 

[xr7g428]

Just kidding... I wish you the best of luck, but this is why I prefer old cars...

 

[ndtorque]

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5-0l-tech/83011-5-0l-88-fault-code-66-a.html

a starting point

http://forums.mustangworks.com/f8/again-how-cure-code-66-maf-below-minimum-voltage-6714/

 

[CougarMan67]

Thanks for the replies guys. Guess what I found? I found the connector on my in-tank fuel pump had the positive wire melted through and the connector was barely on... FML! Thankfully it was acting up when it did or... CA-BOOOM for me! Im using 2 spade terminals and fuel safe JB weld to hold them in so the next time I pull the pump it will need to be replaced. Tested pump and pump still works.

Also for the MAF sensor, I went to my local pick and pull and took out a MAF sensor and housing off a 1997 F-150, then cut the square flange off so it'll hook up to my system and it works till my new sensor gets here. Just a band aid, but it works.

And yes, a carb work fix all my problems, but then what would I fix???? LOL

 

[andrewb70]

Carbs suck ass...Get the EFI working right and you won't be sorry. I haven't owned a carb since 1991, even on my "hot rods."

Andrew

 

[CougarMan67]

Quick question guys, I had my car Dyno'd and an SCT chip burnt for it. If I replace the MAF sensor with the original or any kind, would I need to send the chip back to be reprogrammed for that sensor? Or does the chip just read what the sensor sends it? I have a PMAS slot style sensor, like the 2010 Mustangs use, can I just order a Cardone Reman sensor and install it?

 

[Jester1023]

You mentioned something about a new filter. I'm assuming air filter. I'll also assume it's a reusable oil type. After those assumptions, my guess is air filter oil is fouling the MAF sensor. If it's not fouling the filiment in the sensor now, it will eventually cause false readings. I'm not saying to scrap the K&N style filter, just saying to do things according to exact manufacturer specifications. By the way, the above picture is a very nice looking wheel chock.