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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought a clock off ebay and it broke, (good guy I bought it off from so its all cool with us), anyways. I decided to convert it to quartz movement like I did my other one, why not it was broken right. Maybe I should make these and sell them, what do you think, looks like stock eh.

Rick

before:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cant even tell its quartz, but it is. Looks good dont you think. Anyone wanna buy one, or Ill do yours for a HUGE fee,lol.


Finished with quartz movement.
 

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Ummmm, Just a quick question about your battery movement solution. How hard is that thing gonna be to get at when it comes to changing the battery or setting the time (daylight savings time and all)? Changing out the clock in the wife's Mach was a PITA. I wouldn't want to do that twice (or more) a year.

I went with the kit thats out there for replacing the spring-wind factory clock with the quartz movement. $35 delivered. I can't remember the source right now (another senior moment)! :1poke:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Half the clocks Ive seen in old cars never worked anyways, so once the battery died, it really did lool stock,lol.
 

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The clocks in our old cars were notoriously unreliable. It is possible to get yours repaired but I assume that it would not be any better than the original.
I opted to get a quartz conversion kit from Cougars Unlimited for $65. It is a new movement that fits the back of the old clock using the same face, etc. It takes about 5 minutes and uses the original wiring.
Tom
 

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Jim, I have been offline for a few days. My car is a '68 and he does have the quartz movement for that one but I don't know how many models it fits. It is an exact fit for the plastic cube that contains the analog movement and the instructions are very good.
I suppose you know, but you need to remove the winder knob from the stem. It just unscrews from the stem and I used a needlenose and a regular pliers wrapped with tape to do it. While I had it apart, I painted the bezel and polished the lens and now it looks like a new clock.
The only glitch was that when I reassembled it, it didn't work. Then I removed the back housing again and noticed that there was a metal piece that projected from the back of the movement that was supposed to ground to the inside of the case. The case has white paint on it and I suspected the ground, so I sanded a spot to expose new metal. After that it worked fine.
My car is in pieces at this point so the clock has not been running much but I hooked it to a battery and it ran for a few hours.
Good luck,
Tom
 

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battery location

is it possible to have the battery in a easy location?I would like to do the same but that bttery changing thing is putting me off.I wonder ifyou can take a small gauge wire and move the battery without decreasing the current.My son has a ton of AA toys he no longer plays with im sure I can find a (doner) for the holding the batterys.I think its possible. any other M.I.T. thinkers out there? Dan:confused:
 

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clock parts

I replaced a clock gizzerd like that about a year ago in the Kitchen it died after 15 years.I got the clock parts from a craft store 10.00 bucks for around 15.00 I think it can be done.Im going to give it a try. Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I made it so the whole clock assembly pulls out from the front to change the battery.The base crimps over the lense ass., I didnt crimp it back over, so the whole clock just pulls out, but it stays in there with the side clip and the top is crimped abit to its tight. Hope you understand. Here's a picture, it just slides in and out and kinda clips in place. I dont have to climb under the dash to unbolt the bracket, just pry the WHOLE clock assembly out and change battery. I bought the quartz movement from Wal-Mart clock department for 7.00 Canadian.

Rick
 

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Like wvcat said put a voltage regulator in 12v to 1.5v solder in and forget, got a reg from my cousin for a couple a bucks (he is an electronics engineer) putting it together on weekend. ;)
 

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Jim, I used 3M Plastic Cleaner, Part number 39017 and 3M Plastic Polish, part number 39010.
I found a procedure for polishing tail light lenses and it worked really well on mine. It also included using some 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper but I omitted that step for the clock lens because it wasn't too bad. I suspect that I got the link from this board but I don't remember. The URL is
http://fiero.freeyellow.com/Tail Light polishing.htm
Here is a copy of the procedure:



Lens and Tail light Polishing: Materials and Procedure

It's 2001 and tail lights, dash and gauge cluster lenses are discontinued and not available from GM.
I make no guarantees or endorsements of any type for results or for any product.
I have used these products following advice of people that have been doing professional body work and restorations for many years.
I have done this many times with excellent results. It is the same procedure used to restore the rear plastic 'glass' found on convertible tops.
If you doubt these instructions or yourself, practice on an obscure area or old broken piece of lens or tail light.
Before attempting this procedure read and understand all of this. With that said . . .

If you have scratched (nasty or otherwise) or stained dash lenses or tail lights, repair is not that difficult. You will need:

3M Plastic Cleaner, part number 39017,
3M Plastic Polish, part number 39010 (each ~$6.50 / 8 oz. bottle),
one sheet of 2000 grit Wet-Or-Dry sandpaper (~.60 per sheet),
about 8 - 100% cotton rags (nylon, elastic, polyester, wool or any mix will work against your purpose),
#10 torx tool,
an old towel,
your favorite lens cleaner,
a spray bottle filled with water,
a light touch,
and patience.

I obtained my 3M supplies from Gwinnett Auto Parts - @ 405 Killian Hill Rd. & Hwy 29, Lilburn GA (770)-921-5681
Note: Outside temperature was about 80 degrees F when I did my work.

You do not need to remove the main dash or gauge cluster lenses.
Remove the lens covers (trim) using the torx tool.

First, using your favorite cleaner, clean the lenses.
Using a small amount of the Plastic Cleaner on your 100% cotton rag, lightly rub in small circles and cover the entire lens.
Let it dry and using a different 100% cotton rag and same motion, lightly rub off the residue.
Repeat this as needed. Two to three applications should work best.

If you have a scratch that won't come out, you only need to get the lens to a point where the polish will work.
DO NOT TRY TO ENTIRELY REMOVE THE SCRATCH !

Spread your towel under the lens, spray a small piece of the sandpaper AND the area of damaged lens with water.
In a circle, VERY LIGHTLY rub LIGHTLY!, and while rubbing lightly, continue to spray the area with water.
Now it really looks like you've ruined it ! Be patient.
Apply the Cleaner again, lightly.

Lightly apply the Polish using fresh 100% cotton rags and follow the same steps outlined earlier for the Cleaner.
Repeat as needed.

If you have used a light touch, and been patient, you should now be amazed at the results.
Replace your trim pieces, and admire your work. You've spent about $14.50 (the other stuff is usually lying around the house),
and about 1.5 hours of elbow grease (FREE !).

The same procedure will work on your tail lights.
Unless your tail lights have interior moisture from condensation, you won't need to remove and disassemble them.

If you do, to reassemble them, you will need stuff body shop guys call 'dum-dum' (rope putty) in addition to the above items.
If you try to reuse the old putty, it will not seal properly. 3M makes this too ($10 for 20 yards).

FAQ'S: "Why don't I have to remove everything?"
Answer: "How have you been touching the backside of the lenses?". Disassembly of the dash and tail lights is another story.

I wish you the best of results.

This site supported by Donald Hendrix
Copyright © 2001 (Georgia Fiero Club). All rights reserved.
Last Updated: Monday August 20, 2001
 

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a power supply

I could build a step-down supply for it, and show you guys the schematic. It would run off 12 volts and it would be very easy to do with a little soldering skill. Best of all the parts would be cheap and you can get it from radio shack.
 

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simple

just a 1.5 volt or a 2 volt regulator. It has three pins one gos to the +12 volts, one gos to ground and the final pin will be 1.5 or 2 volts out. Simply tie that 2 the + side of your clock and then tie the - to ground.
 
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