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Just about ready to install my 390 with hooker headers in my xr7. Should I install with tranny (C6) attached? And should I put the master cylinder/booster in before or after the install. Any other advise you guys can offer will be greatly appreciated.
 

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If you have the height, and you need about ten feet I have heard it is best and easiest to install engine and trany together. When I pulled mine I did it seperate and it was a pain in the butt! I definitely will be having my C-6 connected to the 390 when I install! Shoot the starter was a pain the other way. I did have a problem with the bell housing clearing the steering linkage. I believe that when I install I will leave the steering linkage out till afterwords too.
 

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I always pull them and put them back as one unit. It is so much easier to attach the trans outside the car and you are less likely to damage a shaft or converter. I have done it in a garage with a 8' ceiling. An engine tilter is a big help. Not sure it matters with the master cylinder but since you have it out you could wait on it since they are made to be changed with the motor in place.
 

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x 2 way easier as a unit. 8' is plenty of room if you have help lifting/tilting
 

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Contrary to the experts above, I ALWAYS install the motor and trans separately. There is MUCH LESS chance of damaging anything that way.
 

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Done nearly a hundred (only a slight exaggeration) and 90% are together as a unit. Using the right tool makes it so much easier. I have always used a tilt on the motor so that one does not have to raise it so darn high. This way once you get the tranny over the front radiator support so the the engine is on one side tranny on the engine bay side you start dropping the rear of the tranny down with the tilt and incrementally move things back and add more tilt until you get the engine near and then start bringing the rear back up and so on. Piece of cake with right tool and process. Never had damage.
 

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I know I am going to be scared silly when I actually go to do mine. Sure don't want to scratch nothing. I saw one post where someone lined the engine bay with quilts. I thought that was a real good idea.
 

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I feel this a very good tip, jack the rear of the car as high as possible and set in jack stands. This helps in not having to tilt the assembly real steep. That is the easiest way I have found to install with trans attached.
 

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Just installed the motor in my car, left the trans in it when I pulled it and left the headers in the car, made it alot easier in my opinion.

Best advice I got is take your time.
 

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My latest bit of advice, is DO NOT USE any of the engine bolts from the car. Yes, I've done it a hundred times, but the last engine removal I did on my 67, the original bolts broke. Thank GOD nobody was under the car/engine bay. Go cough up 5 bucks, and get some new grade 8 hardware, and remove that potential accident.
 

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My latest bit of advice, is DO NOT USE any of the engine bolts from the car. Yes, I've done it a hundred times, but the last engine removal I did on my 67, the original bolts broke. Thank GOD nobody was under the car/engine bay. Go cough up 5 bucks, and get some new grade 8 hardware, and remove that potential accident.
Yup that there is good advice.
 

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Prefit header 1# and make bolts fit you may have to cut some or dent tubes. put headers on motor and put trans on floor and lower motor as it is in car if that work you know you can do it in the car. all so can do dry run motor with headers on have fun putting them in car after motor is in Tom wwwKTLRestoratios.con need more call 434-685-7353
 

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I have a picture or two here..
 

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To throw a little more in here. When I pulled my engine I left everything on it. Altenator, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump, only thing I removed was the fan. Would you have them all installed before installation? Does it matter?
 

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IT depends on what you are going to do with the engine out of the car...I probably would have left most of the accessories in the bay, rather than take them out. If you are tearing it down to the block, it would all have to come out/off either way.
Time is money, if it worked out better for you this way, then you made the right decision.
 

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I took the motor out with everything attached (minus the fan for clearance). I will be putting it all back in as a complete assembly (trans included). Much easier to assemble outside the car.
If it is the first time with a new set of headers I leave the engine sitting on the mounts, unbolted, and fit the headers before tightening the engine in place.

Engine.jpg
 

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I took the motor out with everything attached (minus the fan for clearance). I will be putting it all back in as a complete assembly (trans included). Much easier to assemble outside the car.
If it is the first time with a new set of headers I leave the engine sitting on the mounts, unbolted, and fit the headers before tightening the engine in place.

View attachment 29539
yeah squeezing in with headers can be a can of worms. Sometimes just starting the bolts in enough to not pop threads and letting the headers hang towards the block a bit helps. Never a prob with any shorties.
 
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