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Discussion Starter #1
I've been trying to figure out why the driver's door hasn't closed properly since I got the car back from Big Joe. It seems like there is some interference just before the door meets the latch, but I don't hear anything hitting. :1zhelp:

In the course of checking out this latest screw-up, I noticed the new door weatherstrip he installed is hanging loose from the bottom of the door. :cry: It appears there is channel of some kind which the weatherstrip may seat in. Joe appears to have used black RTV or some such in the hope it would glue it to the bottom of the door. Nope. If this channel is designed to secure the weatherstrip, it looks like I'll need to bend out the edge of the channel, squeeze the weatherstrip back in, then crimp the edge over it. Anyone know of a foolproof method for reattaching, if this isn't it?

Steve C.
 

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if it is a channel then you should be able to get new strip and then pull it from one end of the channel to the other. if it is ruined on the clench side then try some 3m adhesive spray some on the seal and others on the door let dry then stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Greg, but the problem with your idea is the weatherstrip is one piece which comes down around the front, back, and underside of the door. The channel on the bottom is U-shaped (folded over, though). So, I guess the weatherstrip would sit inside the channel, and the idea would be to crimp it in there. There is only a channel on the bottom of the door. The weatherstrip was glued with RTV on the front and back side also.

Regards,

Steve C.
 

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ya rtv wont hold for any period of time it is a sealnt not a bonding agent. been so long since i checked that area to be honest i thought they were a solid rubber seal with push in divits that locked, maybe thats the 68? i am guesing it looks kinda like this l\ /l
l__l i know the top door seal will pull out of the channel and pull through. kinda like a train on a track so i was thinking the bottom may do the same. My suggestion if your not wanting a new seal anyhow then is try a little vaseline on the "feet"to slip it into the trackwith placing one edge into the track then pushing the other foot into the track on the other side. If your able to remove the seal then try doing that it is always easier off the car. course not looking at it I may be way off base i will look at my 70 drop top tomarrow morning and see if i can help out further.
 

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WX strip

3m makes an adhesive specially for this application. It come in black & yellow. Make sure you get the black. Now about the door. 1st, does the door even close w/ out the W/X strip on? make sure the door is aligned correctly. It would be a good idea to remove the W/X strip & all the old glue, Next see if the bottom of the door (channel for strip) is not touching the sill plate area. The track is not supposed to be bent to pinch the strip, it is just a channel to guide & hold the strip. I put one side of the strip in and work the other side in. You'll never get the strip to slide, more likely to tear it.
Start at the rear of the door w/ the 3 screws holding the strip, and work around. Don't stretch or it won't fit at the door jamb. I use dime size dabs every 6" or so under side, but continuous on the rest.
 

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It's been a couple years since I messed with this bottom of door seal, but mine was completely missing. I used the 3M brand of glue and if I remember right, the bottom of door seal I bought from one of the cougar vendors came with 4 or 5 small screws to hold the seal in place. It really wasn't hard to install, just need to make sure the mounting area is clean and follow the directions on the glue container.
 

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3M makes a commercial grade adhesive for attaching weatherstrip. Part number is 1300L. It must be brushed on both the weatherstrip and body or door surfaces and allowed to dry completely, then push the weatherstrip into place. The channel is not supposed to be crimped over the weatherstrip.

Body and paint guys are typically not upholstery, weatherstrip and chrome guys. They have proved it to me on countless occasions.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help. Maybe there's a light at the end of this tunnel. One of these days (don't know when), I'll maybe run out of Big Joe screw-ups I have to fix, and I can feel good about driving the car again.

Steve C.
 

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I've used that 3M stuff that does weatherstrips... This stuff works great! just be careful as it can be a little messy..... or maybe it was me that was a little bit messy...LOL anyway once it's on.... it's on.. my .02

Don
 

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the resistance with the door closing is probably the weatherstrip making contact at the fron of the opening and/or the glass making contact, which is the way it should be until the weatherstrip start to form fit the opening, so it may be tight for a while, if it is too tight the door/glass may have to be adjusted, again. If it is way tight it puts a big strain on the hinges, latches, and window mechanism. I've always found it best to start with "good" hinges, with the door 1/2 and full open position try to lift the back of the door, there should be very little movement or slop in the hinge pins. Adjust the door to have an even fit to the quarter panel and the rocker panel, then fit the front fender edge to the door, you will also have to then adjust the glass to the body opening. This can be exasperating so dring the beer after it's done. :chain:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Leon,

All the weatherstrip around the doors, windows, (convertible top), beltline, etc. has been replaced with new reproduction. It matters little if the RH window is up or down, there is a definite interference. Perhaps a combination of poor alignment, and the weatherstrip problem.

The left door shuts fine, but I'll probably have to reseat the door weatherstrip on that side as well. This door shuts a little tighter with the window up as I would expect. Which piece is the A pillar? If the windshield pillar, this shouldn't affect door closure with the window down.

Steve C.
 

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couldnt get out there to day would you believe to much rain! I know us desert people complain about any percipitation.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So, the bottom door seal (5 screws) seems to be ok on either side. The RH door weatherstrip (1 screw plus glue) is loose (so is the LH side), outside the channel and seems to be twisted as it wraps around the bottom front edge of the door. I'm not sure why the twist, but that doesn't seem to be the problem.

I'm still not sure where the interference is, but the door itself is poorly aligned (lifted up in the back and closer to the fender than the other side). Just before the door meets the latch, I see the inside door panel move backward about 1/8". This is perplexing, because I can't really see what is pushing it backward. If the panel has been working back and forth when the door is opened or closed, it may be a reason the door panel is not tight against the the bottom edge of the door.

Steve C.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh, it may be the door frame moulding pushing the door panel backward. The door frame moulding is attached to the front edge of the door frame, and sits just above where the kick panel wraps onto the door frame (on the 1970). It seems the door alignment may be the underlying problem, which manifests in the various fitment symptoms.

I've also looked for ways to adjust the door, but I've never done this. It doesn't appear the hinge plates are slotted anywhere to allow adjustment.

Steve C.
 

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at the bottom of the winscreen pillar repro seal there is a big block of rubber where it bolts onto the door frame between the hinges. It doesn't compress too well and will push the door back as you close it over the last couple of inches.

The repro windscreen pillar seals are crap but that is all there is
 
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