[catman]

Before installing the front and rear case I installed the bellows. I would recommend not using cheap crimp pliers. I would recommend using a pair of Oeticker HIP 2000/ 387 band crimp pliers.

They are less than $20.00, made very well and the can crimp from the side or the top.

The front and rear case was installed, aligned and then pressed together per the shop manual that you can download for free here MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Informatio- Service Manu 1967 Dodge Dart + Coronet and Charger service manual on pages 5-22 thru 5-28.

The egg has put together,banded, vacuum checked, valve operating rod adjusted per

and reunited with the master cylinder

This project is done!

 

[ndtorque]

great job ...

 

[68Shelby]

The front and rear diaphragm are now installed. I used this and a vise.

With a rubber strap wrapped around the front of the control hub mounted in a vise, I was able to use both hands to turn on the front than the rear diaphragms on.

All of the parts were painted with POR15 so this booster shouldn't have any rust issues inside or out

I assembled the bellows and I'm almost ready to finish this one.

Next final assembly.

The front and rear diaphragm are now installed. I used this and a vise.

With a rubber strap wrapped around the front of the control hub mounted in a vise, I was able to use both hands to turn on the front than the rear diaphragms on.

All of the parts were painted with POR15 so this booster shouldn't have any rust issues inside or out

I assembled the bellows and I'm almost ready to finish this one.

Next final assembly.

Great post! About to tackle the Midland on my 68 Shelby. Thanks!

 

[elro7707]

Now before some of you go and order a repair kit there is something you should know.

In order to remove the front and rear diaphragm from the power valve (control hub) you will need a special tool. Harmon classic brakes sells this specific tool but it's not cheap. PN 62-314

Here is a picture of the tool and the power valve. This tool mounted in a vise gives you the leverage to turn the front and rear diaphragm off the locking ribs on the power valve.

If you look closer at the power valve (control hub) you will see different slots on the sides as well. There were other tools that were used to do the same task resembling a spanner wrench.

When you buy a complete rebuild kit you should receive a copy of the complete break down front to back of the of the midland banded power booster with each individual part number.
The only one in you will ever find anywhere! Believe me I have researched this for a long time. I will not post it!

You will also receive a blurry copy of a service manual's instructions on how to take it down for rebuild.

Ford never published one as far as I could find but I could be wrong. MOPAR DID! They used the same booster with a slightly different case.

It is in the 1967 Dodge Dart + Coronet and Charger service manual on pages 5-22 thru 5-28.

I'll show you where you can download this service manual for free and you can read all about it with pictures. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manu


and you can see the tool that they used.

I'm having a hard time locating the tool to remove the power valve
control hub. Does anyone have one I can use, rent or buy? Rob -

 

[catman]

I didn't use the tool that Home - Harmon Classic Brakes sells.

I used one of these and a vise.