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Discussion Starter #1
Before the snow melts here in Pittsburgh I would like to do some work on my cougar. I'm going to put on a new Elebrock carburetor
(500cfm or 600 w/ electric choke). My question for everyone is this: Do I also change the manifold , along with the carburetor upgrade? I was thinking about buying a Edelbrock Preformer 289
for my car. I went on the Edelbrock web site and read about how to install a manifold , seems pretty involved for a beginner like me!
I have a buddy who is going to help me but don't know if it's worth the trouble.What do you think??

Thanks for your thought...

Jim

my car: 67 xr-7 289 2-v 33k miles
no other mods yet.
 

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in order to put a 4 barrel on your car, your going to need a 4 barrel intake. For a beginner it is hard to install. You need to pull the distributor, drain the fluids, clean all gasket surfaces, then put on new gaskets and put the intake on WITHOUT moving the gaskets (use gasket tack or similar). If you make up some studs to put in the corner manifold bolt holes install will be easier and wont move the gaskets around. It is a worth while install, but you could end up with a vaccuum leak. When you install your distributor make sure you mark where it goes before you pull it out so it goes in right. For a stock motor, a 500 cfm will be great :)

Rick
 
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yah i have a 1970 standard cougar but i have the old 351 w on it an di want a four barrel i just put a new two barrel intake on but i want to put a new four barrel on what are some names any of u have to recomend for performance
 

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Actually on a 289 or 302 you can change the intake without removing the distributor. No problem at all, just remove the old intake and clean the gasket surfaces PERFECTLY clean.

The new gaskets should be glued to the heads using a gasket cement like Fel Pro Hi-Tack. The cork end pieces need to be glued to the engine block. I can't stress enough how PERFECTLY clean all the surfaces must be so the gaskets don't move on you.

After the gaskets are all glued to the engine the side of the gasket that seals to the intake must be coated with Form - A Gasket #2 or RTV, either work fine. Then the intake is installed and torqued to the correct value. It's a really easy job on a 289 - 302 since the Ford engineers made it possible to accomplish without removing the distributor.

Did I mention how CLEAN everything needs to be?
 

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Royce is right (as usual!) The dist. doesn't have to be removed. I personally do not use the cork ends on ANY intake (learned this the hard way), use the BLACK (only, NEVER BLUE its not good for anything) RTV and put is about 1/4 to 5/16" thick continuous bead across where the cork would normally go (after the intake is bolted down and torqued it should just squeeze out a little) and you will never have another intake leak oil (if it was good and clean). We started doing this in the dealer I worked at several years ago and I've always had good luck with it.
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Royce,

Thanks for your input.
What would be a good product to use on the block to get it
PERFECTLY clean??
Do you think i could change the manifold without removing
the halve covers also?

Thanks,
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Scott,

So your saying to use no gasket correct?
Just use the black rtv and nothing else?

Jim
 

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the reason I mentioned to remove the dist. is so when you go put on the intake, it can drop down straight without having to tilt it and move the gaskets. :)

Rick
 

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Use the side gaskets just not the cork end ones...
Scott
 

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dark7068 said:
You need to pull the distributor, drain the fluids, clean all gasket surfaces, then put on new gaskets and put the intake on WITHOUT moving the gaskets (use gasket tack or similar).
Or you can do what I did, and try to rush through it and forget to drain the fluids.... SSWWWOOOSSSHHHHH. Ahh yes, not a fun event...
 

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Wow, That HAD to SU*K!!!! :D:D:D:D I guess you got an unexpected engine flush out of the deal..... :D
Scott
 

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Lacquer thinner or MEK are my favorites to remove the oil residue from engine sealing surfaces.
 

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I used Lacquer thinner, and some fine sandpaper, and it worked great. Also, a razorblade on some of the bad spots. Don't forget to cover up the cylinders!
 

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Acetone works really well also. Good for a final cleaning once you get all the old gasket material off.
 

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At the shop here we use the 3m discs on an angle head die grinder, then spray it off with our NAPA (MAC) Carb cleaner or brake cleaner, that stuff works nice because when you have stubborn gaskets that are hard to get off they sometimes blend in color wise with the cast Iron and when you spray it with the carb cleaner or brake cleaner it turns it black so its easy to tell where you need to clean better. :D:D:D
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Could someone help me out please?
I'm going with a Edelbrock manifold (2121) and
a Edelbrock 500 cfm carb electric choke (1403).
I know I need new gaskets for the manifold and RTV
to hold them in place. What else will i need to make
this change?
Will I need a spacer for the new carb? I have new thermostat,
thermostat housing, and heater hose fitting on order now.
I will order a new temperture sending unit soon.
I have new bolts for the manifold coming from AMK.
What about connecting the throttle linkage? Will the old
stuff connect to the new carburetor?
Almost forgot the vacuum connections. What is the fitting that
screws into tha back of the manifold called?? I would like to
replace that also. Does anyone know who might sell this part?
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

jim
 

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I have an Edelbrock carb also. I'm not running a spacer but you can if you want. Some say it helps a little. I was having hood clearance issues. I used the original throttle linkage but modified it some. The length of the rod is OK, but I seem to remember having to widen it a little bit where it makes it's "Z" bend. I hope that made sense.

As for the vacuum port in the back of the manifold, I have no idea what the official name of it is but your description should get the parts guy to give you the right thing. Notice, I said should... On the other hand, your original fitting works in the new manifold as well. Those are the types of parts that don't wear out, unless it's stripped.

Good Luck!

Mark
 

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I always referred to it as "the vacuum tree". Check that your Edelbrock has Ford linkage on it. I had to buy seperate Edelbrock parts to convert mine to Ford and A/T.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Bob & Mark,
Thanks for thoughts.
I can never get enough tips when it comes
to fixin up my cat!
I will try to let you know how the install goes.
Next step is to find the best price on the 1403 carb.

Jim
 
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