[Bobs_cat]

My car has power steering, and as I understand these things are naturally a little sloppy. I am a poor student, I don't feel like spending a pile of money putting a rack and pinion setup in it, so the idea came to my head that maybe converting to to manual steering might make it a bit tighter. Basically I need someone to tell me if they have actually done this, and if it made that much of a difference. Also, my understanding of the conversion is basically changing out the power steering ram, and putting something else in its place (something cheap) that is the manual aspect of it. But yeah, someone tell me if I am wrong here, because I have a decent set of arms and don't mind wrestling a car around the road.

 

[1969XR7Vert]

The conversion to manual involves replacing the control valve with a fixed part and removing the PS ram. That is all I have for you.

 

[wonderwrench]

The PS in my 67 with 31k on it is not sloppy. These cars do not drive like later model cars but in good working condition the steering should not feel sloppy. I would say the steering lacks feed back, is slightly over sensitive and slow as most cars were back in the day. I would guess you have one or more worn parts so a though inspection is in order.

Bill

 

[graeserhp]

One thing that can help a lot is to take one of the bolts out of the top cover and inject some grease into it ! You probably have the common problem of next to no grease inside the gear box as this is so close to the exhaust manifold! the gears will start to wear as soon as this happens but like most who thinks to check something like that! Also a little slop can be taken out by tightening the top screw on the gear box! good luck

 

[Old man]

I just finished with the power to manual steering conversion on my 67. First I removed the slave cylinder (ram) and replaced the control valve with the fixed piece from WCCC. I also removed the P/S pump & all the hoses. This solved my leakage problem, and it did make the steering feel a little better,but there was still some slop in the wheel while going straight. Adjustments & grease didn't help much. The steering box was worn out. Finally I replaced the P/S box with a manual box, replaced all tie rod ends, idler arm & pitman arm. Car drives 100% better. If you're interested, I still have the almost new control valve replacement piece. It cost $160 from WCCC, I'll sell it for $100, plus shipping. PM me if interested, or want more details. Paul

 

[doctordesoto]

the 68 we had was a stock but rebuilt p/s system---it felt terrible on the road---a trip to a REAL allignment shop made a 1000% difference--it was noticeable just leaving the parking lot---most allig shops just align to factory specs--you need an old timer that can put modern spec in an older car
doctordesoto

 

[wbferran]

I just finished with the power to manual steering conversion on my 67. First I removed the slave cylinder (ram) and replaced the control valve with the fixed piece from WCCC. I also removed the P/S pump & all the hoses. This solved my leakage problem, and it did make the steering feel a little better,but there was still some slop in the wheel while going straight. Adjustments & grease didn't help much. The steering box was worn out. Finally I replaced the P/S box with a manual box, replaced all tie rod ends, idler arm & pitman arm. Car drives 100% better. If you're interested, I still have the almost new control valve replacement piece. It cost $160 from WCCC, I'll sell it for $100, plus shipping. PM me if interested, or want more details. Paul

just curious - if you did the conversion why do you still have the control valve replacement piece???

 

[Old man]

The replacement piece threads onto the P/S center link in place of the control valve. I replaced he P/S center link with the manual version which has an eye in the end to accept the standard inner tie rod end. I have also had the wheel alignment done properly and am even more happy with the overall outcome.