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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New member and I am sure this has been asked, but I can't seem to find it through the search option so here goes...

I just put 17" Bullitt wheels on my 67 hardtop and would like to drop both the front and rear a couple inches. The rear seems pretty straightforward using the u-bolt/block lowering kits but the front is a little more curious. I can't seem to find a good source for drop spindles and I've seen people talk about the "Shelby drop" and cutting coils to lower the front end, but has anyone just replaced the stock coil springs with those from a 65-66 Mustang?

Suggestions, advice, etc? Thanks!
 

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Did you want to be able to turn the wheels? You need to check to see how much clearance you have before you make any mods. I have had issues with rubbing at stock height with 17" wheels on my '67.
 

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I have 17x8 American Racing Torqlite on all 4 corners. I used 1" lowering springs from Mustangs Plus and I love them. The car sits great now. Bill is absolutely right, you need to see how much clearance you have first. The shelby drop will maybe lower your car 1/2" or less plus when you do this you need to smash the shock towers so you can fit the grease fittings in there. I wouldn't mess with drop spindles at all. Just get lowering springs!
 

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True - you need to verifiy backspacing before you commit. The stickey thread for wheels has some usable info, but it is hard to make sense of with all the combos/mods. Start there and see what you can find for your set up. My front springs were in good shape so I cut off 1", but I am running my 14" still, but plan to move up this year. Also keep in mind 67/68 and 69/70 have different wheel opening sizes.....so don't assume anything. You will want to consider putting some mods into you front spring perches and UCA grease zirks at this time since you have it tore appart anyway....lot's of good info if you search the shelby drop. Some guy cut holes in the towers others use 90 deg fittings....see what fits your budget/skills. Plenty of ideas out there. I like this one for starters: http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/
 

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regular lowering blocks for the rear dont work if you are going to keep the rubber isolaters on the spring pack---lowering springs or a trip to ypur local spring shop to have the eyes reversed are the easiest unless you know a good machinist . alot of guys do away with the isolaters and go to mustang stuff---should have bought a mustang if thats what you want
doctordesoto
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys! This is part of my looking before I leap- I don't want to get halfway into it and find out I should have gone a different route. I have plenty of clearance right now, so much in fact that it looks damn near like a 4x4, which is the reason I feel the need to lower it. I'll post a pic so you can see what I see. Thanks again!
 

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"Bullit" wheels as in Mustang wheels?

Those things have a ton of backspacing which makes normal calculations a bit tricky. Combine that with whatever tires you're running and there are all sorts of variables.

I have custom ordered 17X7 fronts with 4.5 backspacing. The tires are 235/45/17. The front sits on 620 coils that I cut 2/3rd a coil out of. I can turn the wheel lock to lock with no issues. In and out of STEEP driveways is a challenge but it's more bacause of the front air dam than anything else.

http://www.mercurycougar.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/11142/title/my-favorite/cat/500

You'll be hard pressed to find many people to agree with me. But I'm a fan of cut coils. It's cheap, relatively easy, and you can dial it in as you wish.

Without seeing a pic and assuming you can turn the wheels all the way NOW without conflicts over space, why not cut a half-one full coil on your existing springs and see where it gets you? Chances are your springs are already settled. New springs take some time to settle in. Drive it a few days to test. If more cutting is needed, try another quarter coil.... and repeat the process until you've arrived at the happy medium between looks and clearance. Up to this point it hasn't cost you anything except time.

Once the car sits as you like, get a front end alignment.

Keep in mind, as the spring gets shorter, it will also slightly increase in stiffness. Don't ask me why though... The other thing is you can't be afraid of operating a spring compressor. I do this type of work so often and on every car I own except the wife's van. So your mileage may vary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am running 17x8 with 4.75 backspace and 225 45 17s, so you and I are within a smidge of each other and your cat is sporting exactly the stance I'd love to get. I have no clearance issues height or turning as it sits, so I think I will go the cut route at this point. Question #2- How did you drop your rear and what are you running there? I have 255/40/17s on the same 17x8 w/4.75 on the back of mine. Thanks for the advice, by the way!
 

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I've -now- got the 1 inch lowering springs (620 lb springs) and the Shelby drop on the front, and 2 inch blocks on the rear with no rubber isolators and Mustang spring plates. Have you replaced the rear springs yet? Mine had a great stance until I did. That's when I had to put the blocks in it. The back was jacked waaay up with the new springs, like I did it on purpose. I don't think I could go any lower on the front, and with 18s the tires are tucked a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That is a beautiful car... Wow. I haven't done anything in the rear yet. I'm planning on just doing the blocks (and i guess removing the isolators) as a stop-gap until I do a torque arm suspension back there in a year or two.
 

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I have the shelby drop in the front with 620 lowering springs, as well as a 1/4" spacer under my spring perches to raise it back up a little. It all depends on the weight of your engine, acc. tho....
 

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I am running 17x8 with 4.75 backspace and 225 45 17s, so you and I are within a smidge of each other and your cat is sporting exactly the stance I'd love to get. I have no clearance issues height or turning as it sits, so I think I will go the cut route at this point. Question #2- How did you drop your rear and what are you running there? I have 255/40/17s on the same 17x8 w/4.75 on the back of mine. Thanks for the advice, by the way!
My rear is a departure from the norm around here. The wheels are 18X10 with 295/45/18 tires. There has been some wheelwell work done and the rear rides on airbags. To get the lowering down, all but two leafs were removed from the springs. The bags provide the "suspension" now.
 

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"Bullit" wheels as in Mustang wheels?


I have custom ordered 17X7 fronts with 4.5 backspacing. The tires are 235/45/17. The front sits on 620 coils that I cut 2/3rd a coil out of. I can turn the wheel lock to lock with no issues. In and out of STEEP driveways is a challenge but it's more bacause of the front air dam than anything else.


What do you use to cut the coil?
 

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Hack saw...















Just kidding. :biggrn2: I use a air powered die grinder with a thin cut-off wheel on it. DO NOT use a torch as the extra heat will screw with the temper of the springs.
 

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Yeah, you always cold cut springs. Never use heat and never use an abrasive that works too slowly and builds heat in the springs.
The old method was to blowtorch the springs until the car sat down. But, this dorks up the spring of the spring and leaves you with a messy front suspension.
Cold cutting coils is where it be at if you don't want to buy off the shelf lowering springs. Even then, sometimes they need to be doctored.
 

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Just cut the coil with a chop saw. I did it 20 years ago and loved the way it looked. As far as the rear...I like the raked look so I left it at stock height. I have 14X7 rims with 3.75" back spacing. It barely scrapes the fender sometimes in a turn with 205-70-14 BF Goodrich TA's.
 

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All good ideas, but a bit to add.

1. Use the upper control arm Zerk kit
http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/374714-sk.html

2. You can use the lowering block on the rear and still keep the rubber isolators. The block goes between the top of the isolator steel cap and below the axle pad. NEVER in contact w/ the rubber... so not sure why this info was given...

3. You can cut the front springs and get very good results. I use Moog spring # 8356 it is 418 Lb rated and will easily work on most any Cat with good results. (67/8 may end up a bit high if not cut down 1/2 coil(s) + )

Here is a link to pic of my 69 w/ lowered upper A-arms, cut coils, modified upper A-arms, and spindles and lowering blocks in the rear...
http://www.mercurycougar.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/800/title/restomod/cat/503

Hope this helps!
 
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