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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to drop the front of my cat about 1 1/2" to 2". I have read that this can be done by using 1" 620 lb lowering coils and the Shelby drop, is that correct?
What brand of coils are recommended?
 

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I did the Shelby drop and cut one full coil off of the springs and got 2" in front, took all that ISO stuff out of the rear and added 1" lowering blocks to level it up, also added 16" wheels.
 

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So you dropped the front 2 inches, how did this affect the RIDE, and do the tires EVER rub? Normally when you CUT the spring you get a STIFFER ride, RIGHT?

How about posting a picture or two?

thanks,

Dale in Indy
 

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ive got 1 inch drop springs on mine. thinking about cutting a coil off. but im ok with the way its sitting right now too. heres my vid. wish i could tell you what brand i got but didnt pay too much to the details and let my stepdad do the ordering. ill look through my invoice after work and see if i can find out. im pretty sure they are grab a track. heres the link.
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1967-73-Grab-A-Trak-620-Front-Coil-Springs.html?page=1


 

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also my front drivers side rubs. the edge of my upper A arm rubs against my aluminum rim and shaves it like a pencil sharpener. passenger side has no problems. but if i turn all the way and drive and then when i park and look under there is a string of soft aluminum that i can take out and roll into a ball. lol not very good. i will be grinding the a arm down a bit. but i have 15 inch wheels because i wanted to maintain the classic 60's muscle car look. if you get bigger i doubt you would have the same problem. the ride is pretty stiff. but i only have 250 miles on the tranny/motor/suspension rebuild. i like it a lot though. i havent gone on any winding roads or anything yet because i need to replace my steering gear box. but i know its going to handle corners very well already.
 

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I did the Shelby drop and cut one full coil off of the springs and got 2" in front, took all that ISO stuff out of the rear and added 1" lowering blocks to level it up, also added 16" wheels.

This is a good recipe to follow. It doesn't cost a ton and make a huge difference without making the car look like something is "broken."


So you dropped the front 2 inches, how did this affect the RIDE, and do the tires EVER rub? Normally when you CUT the spring you get a STIFFER ride, RIGHT?
Yes it stiffens up the ride but just barely noticeably. Not enough to make you wonder "what the heck did I just do?"

also my front drivers side rubs. the edge of my upper A arm rubs against my aluminum rim and shaves it like a pencil sharpener. passenger side has no problems. but if i turn all the way and drive and then when i park and look under there is a string of soft aluminum that i can take out and roll into a ball. lol not very good. i will be grinding the a arm down a bit. but i have 15 inch wheels because i wanted to maintain the classic 60's muscle car look. if you get bigger i doubt you would have the same problem. the ride is pretty stiff. but i only have 250 miles on the tranny/motor/suspension rebuild. i like it a lot though. i havent gone on any winding roads or anything yet because i need to replace my steering gear box. but i know its going to handle corners very well already.
Wheel width, backspacing and tire size all factor in to this. You're correct in that 16" wheels would help your rubbing issue.

I have the 620s on the front, with almost a full coil cut on those, NO Shelby mod and 17" wheels. The tires are 235/45/17 and nothing rubs even at full lock on a turn. Pictures in my gallery.
 

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Personally I've never been a fan of cutting the springs, getting the desired height by installing the correct springs is the better way (my $0.02).

As for blocks to lower the rear, please see above. I've had lowering blocks on one of my vehicles and although it did the job, one broke under hard acceleration. It is simply too easy to get leaf springs that will lower the rear to th desired height.
 

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our cougar sits kida like local hero---maybe a loittle lower----the po said he cut the coils , i'm guessing more than one coil---the car is a big block with a 1-1/8 sway bar---i'm running 15x6 styled steel wheels w 205-60-15 bfgs---no rubbing what so ever---i mad my own lowering block that dropper it down and also rotated the rear to correct pinion angle---you'll have to get a damn good muffler guy to keep every thing up tight(nothing below the torque box)and the cavilear rack gives you an additional 1.5" clearance in front
doctordesoto
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Personally I've never been a fan of cutting the springs, getting the desired height by installing the correct springs is the better way (my $0.02).

As for blocks to lower the rear, please see above. I've had lowering blocks on one of my vehicles and although it did the job, one broke under hard acceleration. It is simply too easy to get leaf springs that will lower the rear to th desired height.
And that is why I'm using Cast Iron blocks :) I had an aluminum block break once on my Jeep, it ripped my driveline apart.
 

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another also...
my wheels are 15x8 all the way around
 

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This has the 1" lowered front spings, and stock rear springs with 300K miles on them and some air shocks....

I have some GT Comp springs for the rear, which are supposed to lower it about an inch.... and I might cut a 1/2 a coil or so off the front....

Oh, and the tires are 27" tall on 17" wheels...

 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I really need to drop mine!!
 

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I planned the shelby drop for 1 inch and am using 1 inch drop 620 coil springs with a small block. Have you seen the ball joint wedge kits?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mustang-Shelby-Boss-UCA-Upper-Control-Arm-Drop-Kit-/320692319023?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aaac0732f

This is one for the experts because I am installing my gear soon too...are these wedge kits necessary???
I got a response from the guy who makes these wedges. He says you only need the wedges if you lower more than an inch with the upper control arm drop (shelby drop). Lowering springs do not change the angle so the wedges are not necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Can someone photo shop my pic?!?! I want to see it lowered to the weeds...almost :) I'd like to see the fender well a little above the rim maybe 2" above :)

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here you go ... one just lowered and at the other I have added a slight wedge look ...

CougarMike68

P.S.: I couldn´t resist in aligning the hood
Oh no! it's gonna overheat! :) Thanks mike
 

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I'd agree with Hero and say to leave the rear alone. Granted, I've got 18's, but I've got the same 620 springs and the Shelby drop on the front. The rear is un-padded with 1" blocks, just like a Mustang. The front made no difference in ride quality, but taking out the pads on the rear leaves did make a noticeable difference for the worse. After a couple days it becomes the new norm.

If you're running 15" wheels with the poofy big sidewalls, I seriously doubt you'll notice anything different.
 

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I used the whole suspension kit on mine with 620s and big bars front and rear, poly bushings, etc. Did the drop too.
The worst part was that I had bump steer to have corrected. The KYB shocks pumped up when I hit expansion joints on the interstate and beat my kidneys out.
Otherwise, no complaints, really.
Lots of time in the mountains wailing on curves too.
I left the rear suspension alone aside from swapping leaf springs and adding poly bushing. No blocks for me.
Rode ok. Sort of like an early Saleen.
 
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