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Discussion Starter #1
Hiya gang!

On to the next issue.. :) I installed an 11" centerforce clutch in my cougar with a 351W and a 4-speed top loader. The problem I have is that the clutch isnt engaging until the pedal is all the way at the bottom of its range of motion (to the floor). I've backed the lower adjusting rod about all the way out to try to lengthen the rod as much as possible, and its only hanging on to the block by a couple of threads. I need another couple of inches of rod length or pedal motion to get the clutch to actuate more fully during the pedal's depression instead of just beginning to engage at the end of the clutch pedal's range of motion. Currently, the car is prone to gear grind, particularly going into reverse because I dont think I'm getting enough push on the clutch for it to fully engage. I can try to find/make a longer adjusting rod, but I'm wondering if perhaps I'm missing something a bit more obvious along the way. Any thoughts?
 

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I ran into a similar problem with my torino. Previous owner went with a Hi-perf. pressure plate and apparently the linkage couldn't take it after awhile. I tried the longer adjusting rod thing but only lasted a little while then the clutch pedal would stick to the floor. Try looking at the Z part of the linkage. It was hard to tell at first until I had someone hold the pedal to the floor while I was underneath there. I saw a small split where the two slide together, so I pulled it out only to discover not only was it split, but it was twisted pretty good also. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
 

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X2 on a broken or more likely twisted "up and over the column" part of the Z-bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the suggestion fellas, but the rest of the clutch linkage is in good shape. The Z bar was actually welded and reinforced with another piece of steel for added strength. The only thing that changed was the clutch itself, which now doesnt engage until the very end of the clutch's range of motion as the previous clutch engaged much earlier. I assume thats the difference between a stock 3-finger type clutch and a modern Diaphram type clutch. I guess I'll need to build/buy a longer adjusting rod and see if it solves my problem.
 

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Thanks for the suggestion fellas, but the rest of the clutch linkage is in good shape. The Z bar was actually welded and reinforced with another piece of steel for added strength. The only thing that changed was the clutch itself, which now doesnt engage until the very end of the clutch's range of motion as the previous clutch engaged much earlier. I assume thats the difference between a stock 3-finger type clutch and a modern Diaphram type clutch. I guess I'll need to build/buy a longer adjusting rod and see if it solves my problem.
If you got the correct clutch and PP (Centerforce or otherwise) AND the correct throwout bearing (same as the original, not shorter or anything), the pedal height should be the same as an original Long style clutch setup, or at least is on my CF setup. The one I have is the dual friction, 90000001? or something like that.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
AHA!!! I went out and bought a 3/8" threaded rod to make my own. I unscrewed the original rod the rest of the way out and I think I found my problem - the end of the rod looks like it's been hack-sawed off. The rod is only 6 1/4" from end to end, I'm guessing it used to be longer (7 1/8" is what mustangs unlimited shows for a new rod). I'm betting a new stock-length rod will solve my problem and give me that inch I need! West Coast Classic Cougars, here I come! Get my coffee ready Don! :)
 
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