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Discussion Starter #1
So I knew the power steering needed help when I bought this car yesterday, expected to have to replace the power steering pump and rack. That's what my guy said was behind the leaking. Here's a pic that tries to capture a drop of ps fluid falling:



There's fluid dropping regularly, fairly rapidly, from the bottom of the pump, and it ends up dripping to create two puddles. There's about 20 degrees of slack in the steering wheel, which is apparently where it was obvious to him that the rack needs replaced.

But the problem that just popped up today... when I went to start her up for the first time today, after a good 20 hours of sitting, startup was no problem but immediately a bunch of fuel shot out below the engine, probably a good 1/8th of a cup shot out immediately. After that it slowed to about 2 or 3 drops per second, which were getting sprayed out pretty well by the fan. Here's a pic trying to show where the drops were falling from:



Though the drops were falling from the bottom of one of those cylinder-shaped bits, the actual leak appears to be the area above the two cynlinders, the largest point, that round section above them.

A quick Google search seems to indicate that replacing the fuel pump is easy. I'm thinking I'll go for it. My brother in law has tons of experience with motorcycles, enough to know his way around an engine pretty well. Two stroke vs four stroke, I know, but he knows cars enough to help me pull this off.

Is there any advice or warnings anyone can offer? Do the fuel pump myself and leave the power steering stuff to a pro? Can I pull the belt off the power steering pump, is that a good way to go while it has this leak? I don't wanna mess anything up in the drive to the mechanic. Driving it without replacing the fuel pump, with the fuel pump leaking like that, is extremely dangerous and a big no-no, right? When I go to replace it, am I gonna have a problem with the fuel line that comes from the tank wanting to pour all the gas out? Do I need to do anything to prevent that? Anything else I need to know?

Thanks guys.

Scott
 

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the fuel pump is super easy for most of us, but with descriptions like this "Though the drops were falling from the bottom of one of those cylinder-shaped bits, the actual leak appears to be the area above the two cynlinders, the largest point, that round section above them." im a little worried about yoru experience haha. a competent DIYer should be able to tackle either of your car's problems easily though.... and these old cars are going to need a little help from time to time so it'll be good practice.
 

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You'll have to see where the fuel is leaking from for sure - that'd be an immediate fix. The fuel pump is an easy swap - just 2 bolts and a hose. It's driven by an eccentric that pushes on an arm off the pump. When you take it out, be sure to note how it's position is when you take it out so you can be sure to get it under that eccentric when you swap it.....maybe all you need it to cut the hose off and re-clamp the end of it?....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So. Got a new fuel pump, pulled the old one off, cleaned up the surface of the block, went to put the new guy in, and it turns out the problem probably wasn't the pump in the first place. The bolt toward the rear went in without even turning it, just dropped all the way into place. In looking at the old bolt that was in that position, it seems somebody had loaded it up with something, maybe Teflon tape, to get it to sort of screw in. But the hole in the block that it is supposed to screw into is stripped out totally, like someone had forced a bigger bolt through.

So we're done for tonight.

I'm gonna go tomorrow and get a lock washer and a nut to put on the back side, lucky there's room back there between the fuel pump mounting area on the block and the block itself. Anybody see anything wrong with that solution? Way better than Teflon tape on a bolt, I'm thinking. What clown did it up that way, I don't know.

Day two and the fun has already started!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the fuel pump is super easy for most of us, but with descriptions like this "Though the drops were falling from the bottom of one of those cylinder-shaped bits, the actual leak appears to be the area above the two cynlinders, the largest point, that round section above them." im a little worried about yoru experience haha. a competent DIYer should be able to tackle either of your car's problems easily though.... and these old cars are going to need a little help from time to time so it'll be good practice.
My experience working with cars is very, very minimal. My knowledge of terminology is awful. My understanding of the core systems and their functions is solid, but at a basic level. But. I have tons of experience working on electronic stuff (especially vacuum tube based amplifiers) and am decent with all sort of mechanical type stuff, from my dad's side of the family especially but both sides really. My dad is a machinist, and works in prototyping for one of the biggest microphone companies in the world. Before that he worked at Northrop on lotsa interesting projects including the B2 stealth bomber. And he worked on cars since he was a kid. So it's sort of built into me to be good with mechanical and electrical stuff.

Like I say, my terminology is awful, so you'll have to bear with me for a while. But I would be very comfortable betting that in a year or two I won't sound like a n00b anymore. Tonight was the first time I worked on a car since I was in highschool and had to replace the radiator in the '79 Monte Carlo I was driving back then. My 4runner I've never even thought about touching. In fact, it's going to my mechanic for brake work tomorrow. But again, I'm gonna have my hands on my cougar as much as I can, and next time my 4runner needs brake work maybe I'll be doing it myself. I'll even know the right words to use, pads, calipers, all that stuff. I have far far more passion for this than I do experience. Over the coming weeks and months that balance will definitely shift. Hopefully I lose no passion, only gain experience.

Please do let me know what if anything is wrong with my solution of using a bolt with a lock washer on the back of that part of the block where the fuel pump mounts. Is there a term for that? A lip or something? I'm gonna pick up a service manual very soon, probably tonight even-- I saw that they're available online from Ford's website. Is that the right place to get it?
 

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Don't be embarrassed by your lack of knowledge or experience. The people on this forum are always willing to help. A couple pieces of advice I can give you is use the search function on the site, a lot of times you will find your question has been discussed already. And if you ask for help take what you're given. There's nothing worse than seeing guys post the answer to a problem and then reading an endless thread because the OP just won't listen. It's makes people less inclined to want to help.
 

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Please do let me know what if anything is wrong with my solution of using a bolt with a lock washer on the back of that part of the block where the fuel pump mounts. Is there a term for that? A lip or something? I'm gonna pick up a service manual very soon, probably tonight even-- I saw that they're available online from Ford's website. Is that the right place to get it?

I don't think Ford sells the service manuals anymore unless you have a dealer selling classics parts. The shop manuals are available from me or any Cougar Mustang supplier as both cars use the same maunual. Your nut on the backside of the fuel pump mounting spot will work fine. The only other solution is to put a heli-coil in to replace the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great to hear. The helicoil was plan B which I really hoped to not have to implement. Nut and washer are already procured, just need to get back over to my sister's place tonight to finish the job. Looking at a garage in a few hours, here in the city and not far from home. Wish me luck.

And Al, I hear ya loud and clear. There's no way I'm gonna disregard good advice. This forum is a haven for me. I just don't want to come across like an idiot is all.

I had it wrong, it isn't Ford's website, it's a Ford manual website. They have the shop manual for the cougar/mustang/comet/I forget what else, but it's the Ford shop manual apparently. I haven't ordered anything just yet, I should probably do a search of the forums here to see the thread or threads where the quality and availability of the various technical manuals out there. And of course I'd prefer to buy from someone that's a participating member here rather than some generic website, as long as the price gap isn't too staggering.

Scott
 

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Boy - IDK, it sure sounds like it's stripped or they got the wrong size bolt to start with..? If it's stripped you are way better off heli-coiling it since you are only depending on one bolt to hold it true/square. Another option would be to re-rap it to the next size which may be more challenging than you would want. I'd probably replace the pump unless that one is relatively new while your at it? The diaphram inside them rots over time and eventually ruptures...easy to nip it in the bud. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah definitely replacing the pump, I already bought a new one so I can't see myself not putting it in, even if the old one is still functional after all. I guess I'll see tonight, when putting the new one on, if the lock washer and nut don't seem to hold the bolt in that side well enough. If there's any leaking when we're done, I'm sure not gonna drive like that. But if it's leak-free, I'll take a shot and drive her to her new home, a garage I'll be looking at in a few minutes, and of course check the fuel pump for leaks as soon as I get parked.

I'm gonna leave a nice big sheet of cardboard underneath to be able to gauge exactly how fast the power steering fluid is leaking when just sitting. If there's no leak, so I drive to the new garage, but then there is a leak once I get there, I suppose I won't put the cardboard under there. Best course of action in that case would be to pull the supply line off the pump and plug it and leave it pointed up above tank level, so no fuel is leaking, and then start down the helicoil road, right? I really want to avoid that, as it feels like that makes this very minor repair, which has already stepped up a notch, into a whole different level. I have zero experience with helicoil, so I'm gonna have to bring in some help there, I think.

Maybe I'm being optimistic but I think the lock washer and nut on the back of the flange for this one bolt should do the trick. I guess I'll find out in a couple-few hours.
 

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Use a bolt (3/8" or 5/16") to block the rubber fuel line. Clamp it if you need to.
 

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also, u do know even in the worst case scenario, that its not super bad right? the pump bolts to the timing cover and not the block, so even if all else fails and theres nothing else you can do, you can always replace the timing chain cover with one readily available at many online cougar/stang salvage places. thats alot more work though, since u have to take all the crap off to get ot it, but in the end, its still do able.

but, as far as a nut and lock washer? helll i'd do that too. id do that before i tried to re tap or heli coil it. just get a longer bolt and nut n washer it and be done. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep, fuel line is already blocked with a 3/8" bolt, since we first detached it yesterday.

I didn't get a longer bolt, I don't think I'll need it, I sure hope I won't. The bolt that came with the new pump is already quite a bit longer than it needs to be to mount the pump, there was quite a bit of extra bolt sticking out the back of the flange. If it's not long enough I'll probably have enough time to catch a store open to get a longer one. I think there's a Home Depot open until midnight not too far from here.

I'll be under the hood in less than an hour. Can't wait. And I've got the garage door opener for her new home, so everything is falling into place so far, knock on wood. Hopefully a few hours from now she's parked there and I'm at home looking at and ordering a cover. That garage is far from clean. But for the price, I am not gonna complain one bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Need a longer bolt. Goin to get it right now.
 

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