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Discussion Starter #1
I will be replacing my windshield seal but cannot find a sealant other than the ribbon style.
Is there a sealant that come s the caulking gun style tube? If there is where can I get it?
 

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Check your local body/paint supplier. If you don't have any luck, let me know, I can get a tube from one of my glass suppliers sent to you.
 

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If you have a 67 or 68 this is the best way imo. This and a rope to install. No void areas that will hold water= no rust in the future
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have read a few articles about how to install the windshield in early model mustangs and none of the them mentioned the rope style sealant which makes me a litte skeptical about it. They all talked about the caulking tube sealant. Does the ribbon style work on the rear glass too? I can't picture how this would seal. Does any one else have experience with the ribbon styls sealant?
 

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While I agree the service manuals 67-68 state “use a caulking gun to apply sealer in the weatherstrip glass opening” and “use a caulking gun to apply sealer to the body opening outer flange”, the sealer back then was of a different consistency. It was more like putty. It could be handled with your hand if need be. If handled it would leave a slightly sticky residue on your hands. You could roll it up in a ball. Correct me if I’m wrong.

Today’s sealant in a tube isn’t the same. Its consistency is much like pudding. You can’t even handle it. Again correct me if I’m wrong.


Ribbon sealer on the other hand is soft with a consistency of putty. It comes in different size diameters. It can be inserted in the weatherstrip glass opening or wrapped (molded)around the leading edge of the window itself before inserting the window in the rubber gasket and placed on body opening flange and ends pressed together to form a continuous bead the same size all the way around. It will not smear or break the bead when the rubber gasket is being installed.


They both will do the job but I find it less messy and easier to work with, but again that’s just my opinion.
Don’t forget to water test the window before you install the interior.
 

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NAPA carries Butyl windshield sealant in a cauking gun tube.
Butyl is non-hardening (what I use).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is all good info, thanks.
What about the channel primer? I read in Mustang Monthly about priming the channel before applying the seal and sealant to improve adhesion of the sealant. Does anyone know about this stuff and where I can get it?
 

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Just make sure the pinch weld is clean and free of rust. I use the bedding and glazing compound as described above. 3M part number 08509. Most paint/parts suppliers will not know what your talking about is you ask for glass sealer. They'll try to sell you the urethane which you definitely do not want unless your windshield is for a '69 and above.
I'm dong the backglass on the '69 this weekend and will have 2 tubes of the 08509 on hand.
 

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The NAPA 4203 Butyl windshield sealant costs $24.99 a tube!
 

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the 3m stuff is about $13/tube
 

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This is basically what the factory used.

<table id="Contents Table" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="600"><tbody><tr><td>
</td></tr><tr><td>
</td></tr><tr valign="top"><td width="600">1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar / Ford Mustang Non-Hardening Glass Bedding Compound - New
(Click Here for More Information or to Order)

Part #: 10022243
Price:$14.85

Glass bedding compound
</td></tr></tbody></table>
Just make sure the pinch weld is clean and free of rust. I use the bedding and glazing compound as described above. 3M part number 08509. Most paint/parts suppliers will not know what your talking about is you ask for glass sealer. They'll try to sell you the urethane which you definitely do not want unless your windshield is for a '69 and above.
I'm dong the backglass on the '69 this weekend and will have 2 tubes of the 08509 on hand.
The 3M 08509 it what I have used several times. It can be messy, but not having leaks is more important in the long run. Here are the steps that I've used:
1) Tape the headliner really well.
2) Test fit the "S" seal around the glass to make sure it fits. I had a bad seal once and had to send it back for a correct fitting one.
3) Test fit a nylon cord inside the "S" channel for the pinch weld and have the ends meet at the bottom center of the glass. Remove cord.
4) Cut off the minimum amount off the end of the caulk tube tip and gently flatten it with a hammer.
5) Run a small bead of bedding compound down inside the channel of the "S" seal that fits over the glass.
6) Install the "S" seal around the edge of the glass.
7) Run a small bead of bedding compound down inside the channel of the "S" seal that fits over the pinch weld.
8) Insert the nylon cord into the "S" seal so that the loose ends meet at the bottom center, cross and have about 18" hanging out so you can wrap the cord around your hands several times.
9) Lay the glass in place on the outside of the window frame and have a friend push on the edge of the glass as you pull the cord toward you on the inside. Work your way from the bottom center around to the top center. The cord will pull the lip of the "S" seal over the pinch weld as you work it around the periphery of the glass.
10) Insert the flattened tip of the 3M 08509 tube inside the "S" seal and squirt as much sealant as you can, then squeeze out the excess and clean up.
 

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OK. You are wrong.

While I agree the service manuals 67-68 state “use a caulking gun to apply sealer in the weatherstrip glass opening” and “use a caulking gun to apply sealer to the body opening outer flange”, the sealer back then was of a different consistency. It was more like putty. It could be handled with your hand if need be. If handled it would leave a slightly sticky residue on your hands. You could roll it up in a ball. Correct me if I’m wrong.

Today’s sealant in a tube isn’t the same. Its consistency is much like pudding. You can’t even handle it. Again correct me if I’m wrong.


Ribbon sealer on the other hand is soft with a consistency of putty. It comes in different size diameters. It can be inserted in the weatherstrip glass opening or wrapped (molded)around the leading edge of the window itself before inserting the window in the rubber gasket and placed on body opening flange and ends pressed together to form a continuous bead the same size all the way around. It will not smear or break the bead when the rubber gasket is being installed.


They both will do the job but I find it less messy and easier to work with, but again that’s just my opinion.
Don’t forget to water test the window before you install the interior.
 

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I would agree the factory orangish equivalent was less sticky than 3M 08509 but I doubt you could 'handle it" very well. We see it all the time in original cars we part out and after 40 plus years of drying it can indeed be "handled" without sticking to your hands. I of course was not even alive when the 68's were being produced so take what I say with that in mind.
 

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The pros (at one time) used a liquid in a squirt can similar to an oil can to seal the glass to the rubber.
I cut the very end of the tip of butyl for the smallest hole possible, then wedge the tip between the rubber and glass, laying down a thin bead 360*. I then cut the tip larger and seal the gasket to the windshield frame.

Then the part I really dislike, replacing the stainless.

(67-68's. 69's up used the tape.)
 

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While we are on the topic, what product in a tube have you all found to be the best equivalent of the tape used on the 69-73 front windshield?
 
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