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Discussion Starter #1
i sit here almost in tears, it's two weeks until our great car trip across the midlands of america hopefully getting another chance to drive through Rocky Mountain Nat'l, our first trip was cancelled by an early snowstorm. hopefully sept will be warmer.

the 70 xr7 has developed a short in the interior lighting with the door courtesy lights remaining on, spent hours under dash looking for a short touching anything. no under dash lights yet but i am frustrated beyond normal.

why did this just show up yesterday? nothing has changed on the car other than this new problem. i've asked my mechanic where to begin , my driver side door switch is new and worked for months yet none of them close the lights off, nor does the light switch dimmer affect the lights.

we've worked on this car for three years,yes some things still need to be done redone etc. it seems this car just doesn't want to go.i know it's risky taking an unproven car on a trip like this but a lot of life is just done without guarantees.

yes i've other cars to take but our plan was to take this one. i am stuck and have just spent 2300 on my other Cat.

now if i was a drinking man i have a good stiff shot but that wouldn't really help would it

maybe some one here has a suggestion?
 

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If it's all the lights staying on, I'm thinking that since the door push button switches (what are those called?) provide the grounds, it may just be getting a ground somewhere in the system before the buttons themselves. On a 68 (which is all I know), The wires are run from under the dash down into the A pillar. I don't recall mine having any special insulation there (like a grommet or something), and if you were tugging on the wires out of the door button hole to replace that switch, I could see the wire rubbing and chaffing on the top of the kick panel/A pillar, and over time could have finally made contact with the metal.
If you could cut the wires to those buttons as far up into the dash as possible, you may be able to narrow your search.
 

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Did you leave the interior lights switched on at the light switch?

Are only the door lights on?

Have you got the under dash lights fitted or are the wires loose?

Could be broken earth wire in the door wiring. Are the door plugs for the lights pushed together.

If you want to take the car away unplug the door lights behind the door card if you can't locate the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks guys all good suggestions which i've tried. thinking of trying to jump terminals in A pillar switch to see if switch is bad but they so simple don't think that's the problem. so far my work around is to remove the door light bulbs. i tried last night to see if dash panel lights dim but since they are so dim in the first place it's hard to tell if the rheostat is working but i do have dash lights.

yes i've inspected the wiring, maybe pulled is the wrong word to use, what i can't find are my relays located by parking brake because i have my door warning light on and i hate driving with a red light on felling it's just normal. i am also thinking of removing light switch but i've never done that and what would i look for if removed. to top it off today it's raining and i've only the driveway to work in. oh well maybe today is only good for having sex with wifey.
 

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I would try unplugging the connector at the headlight switch to see if the switch for turning on the courtesy lights (which is the dash light dimmer rheostat all the way CCW). You will likely need to remove the headlight switch from the dash in order to facilitate this but without doing it you really cannot rule out a problem with the switch.

The way I look at it, you have the three switches, no wait four switches, the headlight switch, the two door switches and courtesy light switch in the convenience group in the upper dash above the AC vent (or above the AC vent block-off if you do not have AC). I would remove/disconnect each of these switches in succession (one out, two out, three out, all out) until the lights extinguish. Chances are it is a switch rather than a wiring problem, try the switches (all of them) to find out.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well bob

i know you're right "You will likely need to remove the headlight switch from the dash in order to facilitate this but without doing it you really cannot rule out a problem with the switch." but what a pia job that is and my shop manual describes it as removing 4 screws to remove the switch along with the vacuum hoses which are reachable but the screws, my head isn't that small to poke under there. it also forgets to mention what the push pin under the housing is for, removal of pull knob?

having never removed one of these and reading a shop manuel with basic descriptions eek. so far my dash map light works fine no problems there nor with glove box.

were are the little people when you need them?
 

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hopefully getting another chance to drive through Rocky Mountain Nat'l, our first trip was canceled by an early snowstorm. hopefully Sept will be warmer.
Late September is an iffy time for RMNP, you could hit a beautiful fall day and have amazing views of the fall foliage or you could find yourself buried in a snow drift. We were up there hiking a week ago and there is still lots and lots of snow left over from last winter in the high country. If you make your early September trip as planned it should be magnificent and the tourist crowds will be much smaller since school has started. Good luck.
 

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well bob

i know you're right "You will likely need to remove the headlight switch from the dash in order to facilitate this but without doing it you really cannot rule out a problem with the switch." but what a pia job that is and my shop manual describes it as removing 4 screws to remove the switch along with the vacuum hoses which are reachable but the screws, my head isn't that small to poke under there. it also forgets to mention what the push pin under the housing is for, removal of pull knob?

having never removed one of these and reading a shop manuel with basic descriptions eek. so far my dash map light works fine no problems there nor with glove box.

were are the little people when you need them?
Jene,

I don't know anything about four screws for the headlight switch, it is just unscrew the bezel nut after removing the knob (which apparently you know how to do).

So, if you get the knob out, just put a big screw driver in the cross slots of the bezel nut and unscrew it. That's not too bad, putting the switch back in is the hard part. Getting it to sit just right while trying to screw the nut back in is not easy.

Yep, it is a PIA job, as a lot of the dash stuff is/can be. Much easier when it is assembled with the dash pad removed, but that is another job in itself. However, for the dash rocker switches, you need to remove the dash pad to get to them, so it could be to your advantage for both switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks everyone for their suggestions, finally had a chance to start taking everything apart. little did i know how much fun it was pulling the headlight elec connection, didn't get a chance to pull the whole unit out but finally my thumb healed enough to push in the switch release button. i was already today to pull the dash pad to follow bob's advice about the dash rocker switches when i noticed they were both ON.

after how many hours reaching under the dash, pulling off door panels, cutting my hands on sharp metal, exchanging a battery the interior switches were on? talk about feeling STUPID to say nothing of the back pain from the milk crate supporting the rest of my body.

so everything is put back together and i am headed to the showers. but at least i can have a cold one when i come out and we will decide which car to take where. it's the hottest summer they've had in years over 100 every day, then off to the rockey mountain snow.

but i'd been lost without all your suggestions learned a lesson CHECK THE SWITCH'S.
 

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All's well that ends well Jene! Glad I could help. Hope you have an epic trip!

Regards,

Bob
 
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