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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Rims for the least possible money but in the right dimensions (width, backspacing, bolt center, etc...), I came up with these circle track rims:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Aero-Race-Wheels/Backspacing-in/6-000-in/Wheel-Width-in/10-000-in/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern/5-x-4-1-2-in/Primary-Wheel-Color/Black/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

Not sure what the "beadlock included: no" and "beadlock functional: no" is about but guessing this has to do with mechanical locking of the tire to the rim (like screwing the beads that drag cars sometimes do). If tires would hold air mounted on them and not spin as well as a regular rim, that is good enough for me. Also, assuming these are even a possibility (and that I haven't missed something crucial preventing their use), is the "roll-formed" vs. "spun-formed" fabrication of the rim important? Roll-formed is a lot cheaper.

If I am totally off base with this find, what I am after is a 10" or possibly 11" wide rim, about 5.75" BS for 10" rim (extrapolating from what my 17 x 9's are, 5.25" BS) as inexpensive as possible to put a pair of drag tires on so I don't go messing up my Nitto N555 285/40-17 street tires.

Thanks for any help, advice, suggestions or info.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Really? You're taking Isabel to the track?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Really? You're taking Isabel to the track?
Cal-Trac's, subframe connectors, full-length headers, true 10:1 compression, Holley 650 DP, etc... Yeah, I'd like to go once in a while and/or to see how she runs the 1/4 mile.
 

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Circle track wheels are a little heavy.
You won't hurt them on the dragstrip!

I bought some Cragar Wheels from Summit that were kinda inexpensive and would probably be better suited for your app.
 

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I THINK 10" IS ALOT OF SLICK! wHAT SIZE GEARS YOU RUNNING IN THE REAR. FRIEND OF MINE USED NEWER STYLE JEEP RIMS ON HIS DART FOR HIS SLICKS. 7 OR 8'S NOT SURE BUT ENOUGH FOR HIS SLICKS. HEALTHY 340 WITH A FOUR GEAR-HELD UP NICELY AND NOT BAD LOOKIN RIMS-SHINEY ALUMINUM AND CHEAP AT A WRECKERS---OOPS CAP LOCK
 

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Discussion Starter #6
LOL at dmac. Only 3.25 gears, yes I am prepared to be just getting into 4th at the speed traps, been there many times before and it works well enough. 10" will ensure plenty of hook up I am sure and if something breaks then so be it. So far, hear no "those are no good" and only "you won't hurt 'em", so maybe these will work and are cheap. Found nothing else that is to my specs and inexpensive. If anyone knows of such, please do tell.

Thanks,

Bob
 

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If you're looking for a drag strip combo this is what I would suggest. Of course you will need some spacers up front but that's no biggie. It is against NHRA rules to double up the spacers on a single rim, therefore make sure to get the right spacer for the fronts the first time. To run on the drag strip you will also have to drain your radiator of all anit-freeze and fill her up with water only (anit-freeze is the biggest ***** to clean off the track). Should also look at getting a snell rated helmet if you plan on running faster than 14's on the quarter mile. I'm not 100% sure if all of these back spacings will work on a cougar.

for front runners...
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/67051/10002/-1?parentProductId=1231935

for the rears...
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/67071/10002/-1?parentProductId=1231935

for front tires....
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thompson/672/1572/10002/-1?parentProductId=746903

for the rear tires....
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thompson/672/3752/10002/-1?parentProductId=746356

With these rear tires you will have to run your car with a drive shaft loop to pass tech as they are classified as a sticky tire under NHRA rules. If your car is a stick I wouldn't bother with a drag radial. Go with an ET Street as it has a very soft sidewall and off the launch it will absorb a lot of that shock to the system. I wouldn't run the rears with tubes and would also suggest keeping the rears for track use only and not drive them on the street (safety reasons and they spit up rocks as everything sticks to them!!!!!!!). I also suggest to not do burnouts with these ET Streets on the street as it can be very harmful on your clutch to get them initially spinning as these are quite stickey!!! If you're going to do a burnout with these ET Streets on the street I would recommend laying down some water first than the burnout and save yourself a clutch.

I wouldnt bother with a 10" wide rear rim. I've got a 2004 SVT Cobra I drag race a lot with, it does well over 500 to the wheels on pump, close to 600 to the wheels on C16, and I run a 15x8 on the rear with a 11.5" wide Hoosier race slick and with an IRS it hooks like a monster (1.54 60'). You won't have any problems sticking off the launch with that rear rim/tire combo above. I run real "pro stars" for my Cobra but those Jegs ones are just as good. Here's a couple pics of my set up.



 

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Cal-Trac's, subframe connectors, full-length headers, true 10:1 compression, Holley 650 DP, etc... Yeah, I'd like to go once in a while and/or to see how she runs the 1/4 mile.
Holy smoke! What have you got under the hood that needs that much suspension and tire?

Nitto drag radials (the newest one) is insane. M/T are very good too. You can always put a simple 15x8.5 rim and run a 26x10 slick or 26x9. Just have them mounted without tubes at first.
 

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Those circle track wheels are very heavy! You'll be wasting a lot of power with a wheel that heavy -- think rotating mass!

A 10" slick does very well on a 8.5" wheel. This 347-powered car has 10x29 slicks mounted on 8.5" wheels. No tubes. 10.53 @ 125 with a 1.40 60' time



I'm running Mickey Thompson 255/60/15 drag radials mounted on 15x8.5" Centerline AutoDrag wheels. The tires have a 9" tread width and are 27.1" tall to match my 225/70/15 front tire height. No problem with hooking up with my 393W's 430hp. I'm knocking on the door of the 12s with this 4200-pound car/driver! That's a lot of weight to move, and the drag radials hook just fine. When I finally install my new converter, it should be somewhere near 12.70s.



AlphaCat needed the wheels with the 4.875" backspacing to keep the tire/rim inside the quarter panel.
 

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Holy smoke! What have you got under the hood that needs that much suspension and tire?

Nitto drag radials (the newest one) is insane. M/T are very good too. You can always put a simple 15x8.5 rim and run a 26x10 slick or 26x9. Just have them mounted without tubes at first.
I don't know if his combo deserves a "holy smokes"... doesn't seem that out of line to me, sounds like just what you'd need in a modified convertible if you want it to handle better and hook better, with his power level. Plus, he's ahead of the game if/when he adds more power later. Cal tracs and subframe connectors are by no means above and beyond. I'd say holy smokes if he'd gone 4 link rear end and tube frame chassis, and such.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So maybe just a smaller version of what I posted links to then? Or I read somewhere about Crown Vic 15 x 7 rims? The point being get a rim that will work (well) for enough drag tire for what I'm running at the smallest possible cost. $60.xx a wheel seems pretty cheap to me. Can anyone either shoot holes in this (okay maybe heavy, but I doubt a pair of CT rims would be THAT much heavier than a regular steel wheel) or suggest an as cheap or cheaper alternative?

P.S. Thanks for the JEGS rim suggestion, that is about 2X the price of my suggestion, but still fairly inexpensive.

Regards,

Bob
 

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You can use Ranger/Explorer/Crown Vic/Marquis factory alloy wheels up to and including 2002, but 98-'02 Vic/Marquis wheels will be 16" to clear bigger front brakes. Note my Crown Vic picture above has Explorer 'teardrops' in 15x7 on the front (all four for street duty). $15ea at the local junkyard.
 

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You could always get a pair of 15 x 7 "steelies" off a Boss 302 or CJ car in any ol' junkyard for $10. ea.
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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Of course you gotta tell us how she runs....I'd just comb the boneyards for some crown vic wheels or the like, unless you want very specific combo. I've seen plenty of stuff turn up on CL around here lately.....should be easy to scare up some low $ rims. Make sure you can pass tech - have a rad catch can, nuetral safety must work, battery must be securly mounted (don't think you can have "j" hook holddowns anymore...)?
 

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Don't forget that all sanctioning bodies require a driveshaft loop for manual trans cars when running slicks. I believe the location of the required loop is spelled out in the rules. Something like within the first 8" measured from the front U-joint...
 

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all RWD cars running 13.99 or quicker with slicks and 11.49 or quicker with street tires must have a retainer loop 360 degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch minimum thickness and 2 inches wide, or 7/8-inch x .065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the
driveshaft in event of U-joint failure. Open drivelines passing any part of the driver’s body must be completely enclosed in 1/8-inch minimum- thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame or frame structure.
 
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