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Discussion Starter #1
This actually doesn't concern my Cougar but the Polara yet still a ignition issue which could happen in either. It took me awhile to get the Polara sorted out with the timing gear change and putting in a Pertronix 2. It has been running for the last month now and seemed pretty good. Yesterday I went out to start the car and it wouldn't start or even hint of catching. It did almost catch when I put the remote starter on it to get spark from a spark plug. This made me pull out my volt meter to check voltage in run and start. Had 12V (ignition 1) in run, as the Pertronix wants, since I bypassed the resistor. The brown start wire which has 10V, during start, now had 0 volts. Actually had maybe 4 volts for a split second and then went to zero during start. Ah, that is my problem, but why? Where did the 10V go all of a sudden in two days when on ignition 2? Did something happen to the switch?
 

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I thought on the mopars you had to have the 1.0 ohm ballast resistor in there - even if you go with electronic set up...the resistor is bypassed in the start position, if wired right. It drops the voltage to the coil in the run position. Your resistor should be in the 0.8 to 1.0 ohm range. The start position wire should go to the plus terminal on the coil, and the right side terminal on the resistor. In the run position, the coil current runs through the resistor to the plus coil terminal. Chances are you have full voltage on the coil at all times?? Heres a nice little article:
http://www.tidewatermoparclub.com/TECH/ballast2.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I removed the Mopar electronic ignition in favor of the Pertronix 2 ignition. That means bypassing the ballast resistor completely. One then takes the dark blue wire from ignition 1 on the switch and the brown wire from ignition 2 to connect both to the coil. Now you have 12V for run and almost 12V for start. The problem is that start has 0V on Wednesday when it had 10+V on Monday when the car last ran. So that is why the question of where the power in the brown wire went while the blue wire is fine?

One can always connect a wire directly from the starter terminal, which becomes hot when the key is in the start position, to the coil in order to start the car and bypass a switch issue. Forget this as I read that Mopar feeds crank power through the ignition switch unlike Ford and GM which use the starter solenoid.
 

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Hmmm....sounds like an open/loose in the start side if the switch somewhere that feeds that brown wire. If you are getting a glimpse of voltage when you hit the start position then it leads us to believe that there is at least continuity to the switch and it just can't maintain it. How easy is is it to get at that switch and ohm it out on the brown point while you are turning/wiggling it? If the blue wire maintains it's voltage then obviously the ground/return path is solid. Really points to the switch contacts for the start position unless there is a different ground position involved when it's in the start position..? (could be if it's a higher current contact..and would be a good place to look) It's been many years since I worked on the old cuda but I had a similar problem and I think it was the connector to the switch had overheated and distorted it enough to not make good consistent contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Enclosed in the column and from what I see in the Dodge manual it doesn't look easy to get at since everything in front of it needs to come off first.
 

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eeek column switch - I should known that! I don't imagine you would get lucky enough the switch runs to a single molex type connector you could pull appart and look back toward it huh? Most likely it comes down and branches out in different directions. Could be I'm barking up the wrong tree and your problem is under the hood since that is where you made the most changes but it just sounds like you are looking at a switch issue. I'd try tracking that brown one down through the dash to the engine compartment and see if you can get a test point to can issolate it and look towards the switch...? Just to see if you can see solid continuity on it....(and the ground associated with it)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just thought I'd let you know that it is the switch as there is no power at the bulkhead connector. So, in the meantime, I have hooked up a remote starter through the firewall to start and run the car for now. It is different. Put the key in run and press the trigger...
 

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;>) Cool - just yell "Contact!" LOL Not sure how long I would trust it...... If you can scare up another switch - I don't think it would be to horrible of a job. I'd check the rating on that button - I bet you want a good 10A or so to keep it healthy.
 
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