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Discussion Starter #1
having vac problems with the head lights going up I have new actuators new lines pressure checked all areas inc. the storage box, I'ts all good. The check valve is new as well. the lights were fine last week perfect actually, and all of a sudden the drivers light is very slow I am down to the switch(No hissing or diming lights) and the check valve Pressure test good everywhere else.
Any help would be great

Thanks
PBCOUG.
P.S. the lid is slower up than down and I pressure checked both brass nipples.
 

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having vac problems with the head lights going up I have new actuators new lines pressure checked all areas inc. the storage box, I'ts all good. The check valve is new as well. the lights were fine last week perfect actually, and all of a sudden the drivers light is very slow I am down to the switch(No hissing or diming lights) and the check valve Pressure test good everywhere else.
Any help would be great

Thanks
PBCOUG.
P.S. the lid is slower up than down and I pressure checked both brass nipples.
PB just watch the video.
http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums/showthread.php?53505-Headlight-cover-doesn-t-close-(-)&
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My check valve seems ok, I can suck in on the single stem side yet cannot blow out I assume that it is good. That leaves me with the switch, what is the best way to check for leaks, do I take it out and plug holes while testing others? or can I test it while in place, remember I have already cut all (4) lines about 8" from the fire wall, Should I just purchace a new switch all the other parts to the vac system are new and the switch is 42 years old?
Thanks.
PB
 

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Just tested the head lights again I turned them on while the car was on for about a minute, then shut them off I did this three times and waited about 30 seconds inbetween turning the lights on and off. They seem to go up about the same time and also shut about the same time, however, when I try to turn them on when the car is not running I get nothing the lights go on but no lid lift. Can the switch create this kind of a problem without showing other symptoms?
Help Bro's
 

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Just tested the head lights again I turned them on while the car was on for about a minute, then shut them off I did this three times and waited about 30 seconds in between turning the lights on and off. They seem to go up about the same time and also shut about the same time, however, when I try to turn them on when the car is not running I get nothing the lights go on but no lid lift. Can the switch create this kind of a problem without showing other symptoms?
Help Bro's
It can. One shortcut to finding large vacuum leaks is to have someone sit in the car, start it, let the system build vacuum, shut it off and then you carefully listen for areas that are letting the vacuum escape. Having a section of garden hose up to your ear works well as a red-neck stethoscope. In the video (part 2) I show how to check the check valve, to check the vacuum tank with out a pump-up tester you can use compressed air while submersing it in a five gallon bucket. Be careful though! The system was designed to run on vacuum not pressure so too much pressure would not be pretty...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like the vac leak was not the switch, tho I will drop a new one in. Really scratching my head on this one I have double checked everything twice, I have to get on with christmas here The coug is killing me!
 

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Looks like the vac leak was not the switch, tho I will drop a new one in. Really scratching my head on this one I have double checked everything twice, I have to get on with Christmas here The coug is killing me!
Did the hunk of garden hose not work? See if your local auto parts store has a Mighty-Vac hand held vacuum tester for rent. If not, they really are not too expensive and are great for one man brake bleeding jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just bought the same one that is what I have been doing the test with. I will put in the new switch tomorrow and re test the system.
 

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It's really quite easy. See if both the upper and lower ports on the two vacuum actuators hold, then test the storage tank inside the drivers side fender. Lastly check the switch in both positions. After that the only thing left is hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Don
Can an actuator be bad even tho it will hold vac. This is what I am down to I have a good used actuator prior to purchasing the new ones from you, I will install it on the drivers side. The drivers side goes down strong, and if I give it a little help it will go up and feel strong. I don't think It's a vac. problem, I think there is something wrong with the mechanics inside the unit.
I will have the answer tomorrow when I do the swap, I would still like your thoughts on my assumption tho.Thanks
Paul
 

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We sure appreciate your patience with us. Of course you never thought to do a pull down test on your actuator, it was just rebuilt! This is the second 67-68 we have had go bad in 4 years. Once in awhile the inner diaphragm does not seat well when the two halves of the case are bonded together. Replacement on the way!
 
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