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Discussion Starter #1
The deck lid on my deck lid appears to be warping when the car sets in the sun. The deck lid gets a noticable wave in one location after setting in the sun. Is there any way to prevent this?
 

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Hmm my guess is that the metal is over stretched and "oil- canning" due to a previous damage/dent. See if you can find the exact area with your hand. You can shrink the metal to prevent this from happening. You heat the area in question with a torch, then hammer& dolly the perimeter of the dent to compress the metal while hot then cool the metal. Don't know if this can be done while not damaging the paint but ill defer to the body experts out there. I shrank a problem area on my door but paint was already stripped so I could go hog wild with the tools.
Kevin
 

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,,or maybe the glue between lid frame and skin is detached?

/Tommy.
 

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what year is your cat?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My car is a 68.
I will check to see if the frame and skin has detached. There is no sign of previous damage the the deck lid and I never noticed this in the four years I have owned the car. I just got the car back from having it painted. It was mechanically stripped to bare metal and painted black. The black probably doesn't help with the heat.
 

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Thats where i think they screwed up, they mechanicially stripped the lid causing that much heat that they oil canned the decklid.Only real way to fix it is to take a torch and heat the metal and take a cold rag to shrink it to stop it from oil canning.They shouldve chemicially stripped it.

thanks
Pat
 

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That would be my guess as well. They got it too hot when they stripped it.
 

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My 69 is black as well - but I did chemically strip it, and no similar issues.....not sure how much diff there is in the bracing but maybe you could find some way to help it out with extra now that it's been painted? Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does that mean the deck lid will have to be stripped, straightened, re-primed, painted and cleared?
How reliable is heating up the warping area and cooling down?
Whats the chances that this issue will pop up somewhere else on the car? The car hasn't been exposed to the heat of the sun for long periods of time.
 

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Unfortanetly the deck will have to be taken down to bare metal cause to get the oil can popping its gonna have to be heat shrunk in many places and to only get it right your gonna have to take it down to nothing and then do filler work to it if it ever had any work done to it.Or you can purchase another decklid do the bodywork to it, prime it, sand the underside and paint it and then paint the decklid.As far as other places to look for i cannot say where to look as we dont know what else they stripped mechanicially.Heating the metal with a torch and then cooling it is very reliable i did this technique in school and to my hood on my 70 and the oil canning stopped.What your doing is stretching the metal and then cooling it which makes the metal tight. Look at the video and this is what has to be done.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GN4RosIrEPg

And

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mptiiRLEJs0&feature=related

thanks
Pat
 

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I would do like I think Bad is suggesting, especially since it is in new paint. The decks are originally glued to the frame (other than the edges); if you can identify where it is warping and translate that to what/where the frame is underneath, you might be able to "change" the attachment of the skin to the frame without ruining the paint job on top. That is, shim/reduce existing glue thickness as needs dictate.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Well since the bodyshop destroyed it, why not go back to them and make them fix it ? free of charge of course, since they screwed up
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The original paint was removed from the entire car mechanically.
The paint shop is willing to work with the deck lid to repair but has not admitted the warping is from metal getting to hot when the paint was removed, but clearly the warping was not there when the car was delivered.
 

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Honestly I'd try to get another deck lid and just have them refinnish it - I think you may be chasing this rabbit for years to come trying this that and the other thing. That should make everybody happy. You'll have a spare to play with in case something horrific happens.
 

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I like that suggestion. A decent replacement shouldn't be that hard to find. I'd park it outside a few more times and make sure you don't have issues anywhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I would do like I think Bad is suggesting, especially since it is in new paint. The decks are originally glued to the frame (other than the edges); if you can identify where it is warping and translate that to what/where the frame is underneath, you might be able to "change" the attachment of the skin to the frame without ruining the paint job on top. That is, shim/reduce existing glue thickness as needs dictate.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bob

The warping is between the bracing. I would rather try to support the area rather than taking the lid down to bare metal and starting over. What kind of adhesive was used to glue to adhere the skin to the supports?
 

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The warping is between the bracing. I would rather try to support the area rather than taking the lid down to bare metal and starting over. What kind of adhesive was used to glue to adhere the skin to the supports?
No clue, but I'd think panel adhesive would be a good, modern version of what was used. So, since it is between the bracing, I would think you'd want to separate the bracing on either side from the skin and let it find it's new, natural resting position, then reglue. How to separate the existing panel from the bracing without causing dents, sorry to say I don't have any slick suggestions... Maybe another "Cougarnatic" will have an idea?
 
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