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Discussion Starter #1
A few months ago I decided to get my car started after about a year. I started it up and the freeze plugs burst, after much struggling I managed to change all of them, I had just put anti freeze in and i lost it all. So once i got them in i just put water in the radiator with no anti freeze just to check if they would burst out when i ran the engine. The didn't so i took the car out the garage with my gearbox issues and down the road a bit and back into my garage, the engine was extremely hot as was the water in the radiator. Was this a terrible idea and is the water the reason the engine got so hot? I want to put the anti freeze in but i just want to clarify first as i'm not really keen on losing another lot of anti freeze.
So my question is, is the water the reason for the hot engine or could it be something else as well, remember this car hasn't run for very long but was running fine before?
All help needed, thank you.
 

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Check thermostat that could be stuck close not letting the hot water to the radiator to cool down
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought about that but the radiator was also hot, I assume that means the hot water was going into the radiator? How do i check the thermostat though?
 

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That's weird I have ran my 427 during the summer with only water with no problem put antifreeze in for the winter. If the radiator was also hot than it would seem your not getting air through the radiator to cool it. When my thermostat stuck closed I got the engine up to temp and took a hammer and gently tapped the thermostat housing a couple times. The slight vibration unstuck it. The only other way would be to take the housing off and replace the thermostat
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's what I thought, I thought that the water wouldn't be a problem but it was way too hot, I know this is a stupid question but which way should the fan blow, towards the radiator or away from the radiator? My fan is attached to the engine but i'm sure its right, I think its worth checking though. I replaced the thermostat a couple of years ago so I assume it should be fine but due to the radiator being hot i would image it is definitely fine but I could be completely wrong?
 

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It should be pulling air from the front of the radiator towards the motor. I just went through your blog and very nice cougar I like the 67-68s better but that orange looks really good on it. Are you here in the states or in south Africa?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So it blows towards the engine? I think that's what it is doing. I will check tomorrow as I am here in South Africa and its 11:34 pm now, don't want to wake up the neighbors. Thank you. I really appreciate your thoughts. It has been hard rebuilding it here with the difficulty of acquiring parts, even just a imperial bolt is a mission. Lucky for WCCC, I have imported a lot from them.
 

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Wow that's super cool that you have an old cat over there in as good condition as it looks. How hot was it when you took it down the street? If it was really hot than only running water could be the problem I live in Michigan so it don't get so hot way up here lol
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thinking about it, when my engine idles it seems to vibrate vigorously, although it sounds fine, maybe something is out of time. Could it be something like that causing the heat?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well my temperature gauge isn't picking up properly so that is the next problem I need to attend to but I felt the radiator afterwards and it was hot to touch, also the top radiator pipe sprung a leak at the connection cause of the pressure in the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bear in mind that all i did was take it up my street and back into my garage.
 

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How are you judging engine temp if you have no working gauge? Is it boiling over? If you have no leaks and a good 12-16 PSI cap the boiling point of straight water will be between 240-254F dependent on the cap PSI. If you have a bad cap or a leak running straight water will boil over for sure. A combustion leak will also cause expulsion of water and look much like boil over, aka overheat. Freeze plugs aka core plugs do not just blow out. Either they rusted out or were forced out when the coolant froze. If they rusted out the water pump impeller may also be rusted out. Head gaskets can also be destroyed by corrosion. If the block froze it may have cracked. Link boiling points of water at pressures ranging http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html

Bill
 

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Exactly what Bill said. You should be able to run water and not over heat. Antifreeze only protects the metals and raises the boiling point a bit. t also will turn acidic over time if not replaced and will eat steel components like freeze plugs... You can test the thermostat simply by placing it in a pan of boiling water and see if it opens up. Be sure you don't install it backwards!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you for all the advice, I will go back and check how everything is working today. So I must check if it if over flowing when hot, due to the cap moving up from the pressure? Also to clarify, the freeze plugs were rusted, two burst through due to rust after not starting for very long. I then change all the others and they had all rusted so it was a good thing I changed all of them.
 

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If there is a way for you go check the timing, make sure it is set right. If the timing is retarded in any way, it will also run hot and also run rough. Make sure you have the right advance timing in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Today I tightened up my leaking hose and went for another drive up the road. It seemed smoother today, I was thinking maybe just a bit of running in after not starting it for very long. Temperature seemed better and was not boiling over. I did however discover that my discs on my brakes were extremely hot. I think this means my adjustment on my brakes is out? Could this contribute to the engine working overtime? Hence the heat. How do i readjust the brakes to loosen up on the discs and drums?
 

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I don't think that has anything to do with engine heating up....but it is hard on rotors and pads! You may want to do a complete bleed down on your brake lines to be sure they haven't rusted internally. A rebuild of the rear cylinders first would be a good idea (and giove you a clues as to the condition of your lines). Make sure you don't have anything dragging when your done. I just finnished up replacing the front pads on my truck ( 2 times in 6 months) due to gunked up lines and a bad bleed jo the first time. (thought my trans was acting up until I pulled the brakes to see what was happening)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I have completely redone the brake system. Someone worked on them before I did and ripped out everything and didn't put the distribution block back, my master cylinder was messed and the back cylinders were completely rusted up. So I replaced the master cylinder and cylinders in the drums, put in a distributions block and proportioning valve with all new brake lines and now my brakes are working quite nicely, the car would hardly stop before. But now its just that they are getting quite hot which means the brakes are pushing close. Could this be to do with the pushrod length?
 
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