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I was wondering if anyone has ever heard, seen, or done this: have one actuator controlling both headlight doors, much like what is found on some of the early 70’s model Lincoln Continental Mark series? I remember seeing that step in them at the junk yard, seems simple enough. I’ve seen a few videos on YouTube of folks doing electric motor conversion, but to me they open and close too fast. I think it’s doable but was wondering if someone has done it to have any pointers. Before I deployed to Iraq, I removed a spring on both doors so they would open and close under their own power, pretty sure either the actuators are going bad or I have a lack of vacuum, the 289 is in bad shape. But I replace all the vacuum lines prior to that though. I think it would be a classy upgrade to have the doors in unison.
Thanks, Justin
 

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69/70 has one vacuum actuator from the factory.
 

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Cool, thanks a lot! Shouldn't be to difficult by the drawing on WCCC. Thanks again!
 

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Can anyone tell me how to get a video on here? I converted mine to electric and they are slower than I believe anticipated. If anything you can judge for yourself. The only "unattractiveness" of my electric setup is you have to have a separate switch to open/close which I understand is not as cool as the original.
 

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Can anyone tell me how to get a video on here? I converted mine to electric and they are slower than I believe anticipated. If anything you can judge for yourself. The only "unattractiveness" of my electric setup is you have to have a separate switch to open/close which I understand is not as cool as the original.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM_dnwTamlc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inJYJgxFDa0&feature=related

http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums/showthread.php?28602-New-Updates-Electric-Headlights-Rear-end-Trunk-and-Seats.&highlight=electric+headlight+doors

They aren't hard to wire up off the headlight dimmer input feed and a changeover relay (87a pin)

Pin 30 - 12V
Pin 85 - 12v from dimmer switch input
pin 86 - ground
pin 87 - open the headlight doors circuit
pin 87a - close the headlight doors circuit

Search the forums - this topic has been discussed many times

http://thecurb.us/Webazine/Pits/headlightmod/curbcvrHD.pdf


Now we have new moderators maybe we can get a stocky section created with how to's on the most requested modifications
 

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Ok maybe you're all right but my setup isn't the typical Mazda or Probe motors. I've used electronic linear actuators that would be used in factories on assembly lines or booms on farm equipment. The actuators themselves can be programmed to stroke in and out to any desired length. Their total length is 4 inches of stroke but the 67' lights only need around three. I programmed them so they start and stop where I want them to, thus deleting the need for springs or the stop rubber knobs on the bolts. The actuators control all specs and look of the headlamp doors (that meaning they fixed the misalignment of the doors next to the grille). The problem I have with the wiring is the actuators are continuously powered through the headlight switch. Once I turn on the light switch they are grounded and continuously fed. This is incorrect according to the actuator wiring information as the cycle of actuation only requires a "bump" of current to process the desired stroke which has been programmed. So I installed a "bump switch" or momentary switch right below the headlight switch. The actuators receive their momentary current and complete the first memory of stroke to close (thus the doors open). When I bump the switch again they receive a current to complete the second memory of stroke which is to open (thus the doors closes). Maybe I split too many hairs with this one, but I'll make a video on Saturday and allow the forum to decide if it's reasonable. Is there a time limit on the videos ( like a minute or less?) or can I film the how to, and pros and cons on this setup?
 
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