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Discussion Starter #1
Started having some ticking and found out that the lifters need replacing. I figured that since i'm gonna do that i might as well replace the stock cam. I do want something a little loppy sound but without worrying about changing the valve springs or any other head work. The car is a stock 69 351W 2V, stock exhaust. I do plan on going with a 4 bbl and longtubes soon after. I looked some up on summit, tell me what you guys think. If you have a recommendation, post it as well. thanks!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2102/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1103/
 

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Both of those say springs required. Lopey and no springs or other head work are kind of opposites. Pull a plug wire off or two and you'll get some lope :bloated:
 

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Started having some ticking and found out that the lifters need replacing. I figured that since i'm gonna do that i might as well replace the stock cam. I do want something a little loppy sound but without worrying about changing the valve springs or any other head work. The car is a stock 69 351W 2V, stock exhaust. I do plan on going with a 4 bbl and longtubes soon after. I looked some up on summit, tell me what you guys think. If you have a recommendation, post it as well. thanks!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2102/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1103/
Both of those say springs required. Lopey and no springs or other head work are kind of opposites. Pull a plug wire off or two and you'll get some lope :bloated:
And they're for a chevy
 

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So, when you blow the engine because you didn't change the springs and they float the valves, what are you going to build for it then? A stroker?
 

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Why are the lifters ticking? Does this engine have some miles on it?

If you are going to do a cam, you need to wait until you can open up the intake and exhaust. A bigger cam with a two barrell and stock manifolds will likely run like crap. Do it all with matching parts at the same time or just replace it with stock.
 

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^^^x100 on that advice. Not to be a downer - but unless you match he TC to the performance of the new cam/heads it's about like pis$n' up a rope anyway. You won't have much if any noticable gain. It's the classic once you start down that path syndrome. Might as well (_____) fill in the blank.
 

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If you need to do this work on a budget, there are a couple things to know. 1. You are going to want to do the timing chain and gears along with the cam. 2. If you cannot do the "whole deal" on what goes with a performance cam, you will want to go with a mild performance cam, that is, just over stock, so we're not talking lopey idle.

Tell us more about the condition, mileage, etc. of your 351W. If the engine is tired, you might be wasting your money throwing parts in it with the hope of making it sound "bad" (as in "racey"). What more likely could happen is it will run bad (as in poorly) as others have pointed out.

Here's an analogy: You don't give a cardiac patient performance enhancing drugs.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
didnt notice it said for "chevy" heck when I was looking I specified 69 cougar, 351W, 2v on its search engine and it posted just that....oh well

timing chain was part of the things i was gonna replace "since I'm there", just wanted to see if there is a cam that is better than the stocker

engine has about 90k miles
 

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didnt notice it said for "chevy" heck when I was looking I specified 69 cougar, 351W, 2v on its search engine and it posted just that....oh well

timing chain was part of the things i was gonna replace "since I'm there", just wanted to see if there is a cam that is better than the stocker

engine has about 90k miles
How old is that 90K? Is it a recent rebuild, or is it 90K original?
 

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I have a Comp 252H in my cat, nice idle and I believe will work well with an otherwise stock engine/drivetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok, so now I have another question regarding the lifters now:
Could I go with roller lifters instead of hydrolic? or should I stay with the hydrolic?
 

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You have to get a roller cam to use roller lifters. You would also need different length pushrods. Roller setups are expensive, at least 3 times what a flat tappet setup costs.
 

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You want a lopey, tough sounding idle? Well, that's fine. But realize that sound doesn't mean power. Never has, and never will unless it's something over the top like a Top Fueler or a fighter jet. Listen to a new Corvette, stock off the showroom floor.It won't sound like John Force's funny car, but they are a great performer.
 

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ok, so now I have another question regarding the lifters now:
Could I go with roller lifters instead of hydrolic? or should I stay with the hydrolic?
Roller cams/lifters come in both solid and "Hydraulic". Unless you are tearing that engine down and building an all out motor, there is no sense in even considering a roller cam on a blcok that is not already set up for a roller. Cam, lifters, guides, pushrods, rockers springs, just about everything would need to be replaced.

It is a very simple proposition. The parts need to work together. Unless you are swapping a bunch of parts including most of the intake and exhaust systems, adding a bigger or more aggresive cam will make the car run worse. A big cam with two valve carb and manifold, and stock exhaust will be an emission spewing gas guzzling pig, with reduced low end torque, and an inability to breathe well enough to take advantage of any of the cam's profile.

The two biggest mistakes people make when building engines is slapping in a big cam, or slapping on a big carburetor without doing what else is needed to take advantage of those changes.
 

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Roller cams/lifters come in both solid and "Hydraulic". Unless you are tearing that engine down and building an all out motor, there is no sense in even considering a roller cam on a blcok that is not already set up for a roller. Cam, lifters, guides, pushrods, rockers springs, just about everything would need to be replaced.

It is a very simple proposition. The parts need to work together. Unless you are swapping a bunch of parts including most of the intake and exhaust systems, adding a bigger or more aggresive cam will make the car run worse. A big cam with two valve carb and manifold, and stock exhaust will be an emission spewing gas guzzling pig, with reduced low end torque, and an inability to breathe well enough to take advantage of any of the cam's profile.

The two biggest mistakes people make when building engines is slapping in a big cam, or slapping on a big carburetor without doing what else is needed to take advantage of those changes.
Well said and I agree.
 

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You want a lopey, tough sounding idle? Well, that's fine. But realize that sound doesn't mean power. Never has, and never will unless it's something over the top like a Top Fueler or a fighter jet. Listen to a new Corvette, stock off the showroom floor.It won't sound like John Force's funny car, but they are a great performer.
There is more to this than just "sound doesn't mean power". It can mean power but power where? At RPM's you could never use on the street usually. But then, Comp makes a "gimmicky" cam line called Thump'r for "the sound" but supposedly streetable. In this case, your statement is on the money. Sound with less power than you could otherwise have.

A mild cam is usually the answer for a street car, but many of us admire and it turns our heads when we hear a car with "the sound". I do. But, it comes at a price, driveability and power at RPM's you cannot use usually.

Regards,

Bob
 
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