I bought a full set for my '69 XR-7 convertible. Including all three rubber replacement lines it was almost $300 with shipping from the east coast to the west coast. I decided to replace them because the line that goes to the back got a pin hole leak caused by rust. The car had sat in a barn from 1984 until just recently. The reason I went with stainless is because it was only about 10-20% more then steel. It has all the correct bends but does not always end up in the right place. Meaning it needs a little help to "massage" it into place. This can be really frustrating if you are putting them on a running car. If every thing is out of the way then no problem. As far as judging goes everything looks correct except the flare nuts on the end of the tubes. These are also stainless and do not have the same coloring as orginal and some times do not use the same size wrench as oe tubes. Oh and if you do get stainless be aware that threads are much harder and will strip out your wheel cylinders/master cylinder/propotioning valve very easily if not installed correctly.
The brake lines are a flare fitting and will not leak once tightned. The brake lines can be bent by hand, up to a point. Like I said The lines will be a little off and you will have to bend them a little to get them lined up to fit properly in the wheel cylinders/ master cylinder etc... Also the longest line will probably be shipped bent in half to fit into the box.
When using a vacuum pump where would I connect it to. Any brakeline end or ? I have the rearend off the car and those lines are open to connect to, would that be ok? Or should I close the short rear line off and then hook up to the longest side and start the vacuum process there?