Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Howdy all, I'm a newbie here but a longtime owner of various old Fords. (Mostly T-Birds/Galaxies of the early '60's.) Recently purchased an old 1969 Cougar and brought her home for a "father/son" project with my boy. This car has sat since 1987 and is complete, straight, and a little rusty. Lot's of potential in my opinion. Well, here's my first question...why is my headlight switch almost impossible to engage/pull out to test the lights? I hooked my battery charger up to the existing battery just to check and see what lights would work, and hopefully introduce my son to the beauty of sequential tail lights. Interior courtesey lights came on when the door opened, but when I tried to pull the light switch to the "on" position it wouldn't budge! My first thought is 25 years of corrosion on the shaft? Spray a little contact cleaner down the shaft? Any thoughts? Does the fact that the headlight covers are in the up position have any bearing on the switch?? Thanks in advance, this is a great forum board...

Dan
aka "Kizer's Dad"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
913 Posts
Welcome, good to hear from another Virginian. The problem is inside the switch itself, there is a rubber block that slides back and forth to cover the vacuum ports so that the headlights know when to open. This rubber block is stuck. If you can't pull the stem out to get the lights on, then you will have to cut the knob off and R/R the switch. Hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Towcat, that makes sense. Does the light covers being in the up position make any difference with regards to the light switch? BTW, the Cougar is a local car, bought her outside of Richmond and so far my son loves her...even if she is a little rusty! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,483 Posts
No the grills in the up position wont affect the lights...take the switch outthere are vacuum hoses on the switch and an electrical connection take off and clean up this may help for the lights to go on...the grills going up and down will require a few more steps to diagnose...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
860 Posts
Here you go, http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9wy-11654-a.html on this page in wccc site is a picture of the switch. You can see the rubber block four 55 was talking about inside the vaccum control plastic part that has the three plastic tubes sticking out of it. Might give you a better idea of what you are dealing with.

Hmm Don has somthing mixed up there when you click on 1969 nos switch it shows a switch labled as 1968?? but the switches are similar in construction.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,577 Posts
...If you can't pull the stem out to get the lights on, then you will have to cut the knob off and R/R the switch...
Don't do this.

You will possibly ruin a perfectly good knob/shaft.

First, reach under the dash and feel the metal body of the switch. In approximately the middle, you will feel a small round spring-loaded metal button. Press this button in and pull the knob at the same time, it should slide out. It may take a little finessing to get it; you sometimes have to release the button after you have pulled the knob a little in order for it to free itself from the retainer the button releases. Once you have the knob/shaft out, you can unscrew the bezel nut, take the switch out and disconnect it so you can see what is going on with it (put the knob back in, pull it and see what's hanging up).

Regards,

Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the great info everyone! Now I understand what is going on with my headlight switch and why. Going to p/u my son from school and then we'll go out and check out the switch. Thanks again and I'll be back with our next query soon I'm sure.

I'll try and get some pictures up a little later...

Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
913 Posts
Don't do this.

You will possibly ruin a perfectly good knob/shaft.

First, reach under the dash and feel the metal body of the switch. In approximately the middle, you will feel a small round spring-loaded metal button. Press this button in and pull the knob at the same time, it should slide out. It may take a little finessing to get it; you sometimes have to release the button after you have pulled the knob a little in order for it to free itself from the retainer the button releases. Once you have the knob/shaft out, you can unscrew the bezel nut, take the switch out and disconnect it so you can see what is going on with it (put the knob back in, pull it and see what's hanging up).

Regards,

Bob
Bob, the man can't pull the lights on, you must pull the light knob out before the release will disengage
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,059 Posts
Dan, welcome. The DelMarVa Cougar club is a great group of peeps & is a very active local Cougar club. I stongly suggest you hook up them even if your car is not on the road at this time.

I think the switch from a '69 torino GT is the same & readily avail. from your local auto parts store. You just have to swap your slanted bezel over to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well, we got the shaft out. I gingerly played with the shaft and eventually get it to move. Then once I had the shaft moving well, I pushed it back in, pulled it back out, and suddenly the entire shaft came out. No biggie, no I just have to work to get the bezel off with out too much damage and drop the switch. Thanks for the info about the DCC, I'll have to check 'em out!
Dan
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top