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1970 Cougar with a/c. as Don has said on the website, "not for the faint of heart"!! you can say that again! the shop manual is helpful, but not quite as specific as i would like. if anyone out there has any tips, please pass them along-

billy
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Do not skimp on removing parts... That means out goes the console, ps seat, drop the column, dash pad off and remove the lower dash 85%. Think of every thing you would ever want to service behind the dash because now is the time! 7 hours for the skilled if all is well, 24 hours for unskilled if you find other issues. Go slow, take breaks, ask questions.
 

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Do not skimp on removing parts... That means out goes the console, ps seat, drop the column, dash pad off and remove the lower dash 85%. Think of every thing you would ever want to service behind the dash because now is the time! 7 hours for the skilled if all is well, 24 hours for unskilled if you find other issues. Go slow, take breaks, ask questions.
thanks Don. i'm getting there, but some things are just a little unclear. the manual talks about instrument panel to cowl screws and side braces, etc. but i don't really see a good depiction of these in the manual, although i guess if the instrument panel doesn't move out, i need to remove something else! i only see two nuts on the engine side, where the manual says there should be three - two for the evaporator housing and one for the blower motor housing.

and what about all that soundproofing or fire proofing, whatever it is - shiny black, flimsy backing with some nasty brown material that falls apart everytime you breathe on it. can i get rid of it? it is constantly falling down on the carpet and i think i would prefer to not be inhaling that mess.

also, if you have any of those rivet things that connect air ducting to plenum chambers etc, let me know. or a good substitute. thanks Don
 

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Is there that much difference between a 68 and a 69 under the dash?
 

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Either one will cause frustration and skinned knuckles....watch for the hidden clips...running around the garage and screaming and cussing and throwing tools won't help either. slow and easy, and take your time (lots of it), but keep in mind that another human put it together so how hard can it be???
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Either one will cause frustration and skinned knuckles....watch for the hidden clips...running around the garage and screaming and cussing and throwing tools won't help either. slow and easy, and take your time (lots of it), but keep in mind that another human put it together so how hard can it be???
is there any replacement product for that nasty soundproofing or fireproofing or whatever it is that basically falls off in a powdery mess whenever i touch anything? or just forget about it??
 

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is there any replacement product for that nasty soundproofing or fireproofing or whatever it is that basically falls off in a powdery mess whenever i touch anything? or just forget about it??
If you mean the cowl insulation (what's overhead under the dash), nothing is available except Tom at KTL makes a reproduction out of carpet foam spray painted black. Most people just remove it (I put KTL's piece on mine). If you mean the firewall blanket, that is available repro (but I think you mean the former).

If you are going to replace either of these, it will get involved on a car that is not completely disassembled. The cowl blanket moreso than the firewall blanket, but both have things that go around/through them on an assembled car.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bob
 

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keep in mind that another human put it together so how hard can it be???
Yeah, that the first guy on the assembly line and the entire rest of the car was built around the core.

Not too terrible. Worse if you have AC but certainly not impossible.
 

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There was a very helpful article on the TCCN site that gave step-by-step instructions for this job. Unfortunately, that part of the website is still being remodeled. I might have a copy of the article and will check this evening and PM you if I do.

The job is not technically difficult, but can be frustrating. I agree with Don - remove your console (if equipped) and passenger seat to give yourself more room to work.
 

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Yeah, that the first guy on the assembly line and the entire rest of the car was built around the core.
Hey!

Honda did the same thing with the fan on their 4-trx 4x4 bike. I'm still traumatized from taking care of that problem... 3 years ago...

Jean
 

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I'm doing this now on Ginger. I have it apart now. I can post a picture tonight when I get home showing how far apart it is. I'm waiting for a new evaporator before I put it rack together.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
got it all apart. awaiting the new heater core. what things should i consider doing with it all apart? i left the pax seat in. probably easier with it out-
 

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I guess I don't have the TCCN article saved, but since you're elbow deep into this already, I'm not sure how much it would help. You could try contacting Steve Eitzen (TCCN webmaster) and see if he'll send you the article. He's a member here under the name Cattin

You'll want to replace the various foam seals inside the heater box. Kits are cheap and available from all the vendors.
 

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What's the condition of your a/c evaporator core? Assume you are keeping it an a/c car.
 

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What's the condition of your a/c evaporator core? Assume you are keeping it an a/c car.
the evaporator core looks fine. i have not had the compressor on the car for years, but always thought i might reinstall everything if i could ever get the engine right. i guess you could make the case to remove the evaporator from the housing. sure make it easier to handle the housing going back into the car, and the firewall engine side would look better without two hoses sticking out into nowhere-
 

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Or would now be the time to re-install all the rest of the system for the A/C.
 
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