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Discussion Starter #1
I just replaced the headlight harness, Alternator and Alternator harness, and noticed that the new harness was different from the one that we were replacing. It was missing a couple of wires/connectors (I removed some of the wrapping to see if the were cut, but they were not there). I think the PO replaced the harness with a standard or a Stang.

But, when we finished I tested the headlights and found that only the drivers side low beam worked. The passenger side was very dim and the high beam light had a very small light. When the high beams were turned on, both of the high beam lights don't work. The drivers side low beam got brighter, I can't remember if it is supposed to. The last time I had to use the lights was when the car was inspected last August and I was in the car at the time so I didn''t see them but the car passed so I assume they were working. Can anyone tell me what I did wrong?

Also, replaced the voltage regulator last night and no changes (Although it looked like the passenger low beam may be a little brighter) I still have no high beams. I am wondering if the new alternator is not working correctly. So now I am looking for ways to check it without having to take it to the store to check it.

1. Can anyone tell me where I can place a voltage meter to check and see what the output it?
2. Can anyone tell me what voltage I should at the headlight plug when the lights are on?
3. Same thing for the high beams?
4. I did notice a little rust on the firewall\engine ground wire and wonder if this makes any difference. I plan to order one in the near future but may have move it up if you think it matters.
5. How many locations have a ground wire in the engine compartment? I have the battery/engine block, firewall/engine block and voltage regulator/radiator support.
6. I read on a Stang forum that the passenger headlights had a ground wire, but I can't seem to find any information about the Cougars having one.

I had 12v at the battery when I tested it, but after the car ran for about 30 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it 20 minutes later I had to jumpstart it to get it back into the garage. Any ideas?

I am hoping to rule out a bad headlight harness, as I don't want to have to buy another one and not have it resolve the problem.

I know I will have more questions and I thank you in advance for any assistance in resolving my issues.

Thank you,
Paul
 

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Check the output from your alt on the lead that goes to your Battery (bigger post) put one lead on a solid ground and other on the post - you should see 12-14v. Start there first, but I think there are differences in mustang harness' vs standard and XR7 harnes' too....ned to be sure you have the right one. Stare and compare with your old one....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Badcat,
Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it now I have something to do tonight. As for the harness I now have the correct XR7 harness, I replaced a standard/mustang harness.

Paul
 

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First thing to do is get a good block to frame ground - that factory thing is pathetic. Just make yourself one out of a 6 ga wire and find a good clean point to attach to. that could be most of your trouble, but even if it's not, you don't want to have any ground gremlins anyhow.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have replaced the voltage regulator, headlight dimmer switch, stater solenoid and just yesterday the starter. I even went back to my old headlight switch and I still get the same results. The driver headlight is working correctly, I have 12v at the plug, but I get less than 6v at the passenger plugs. I get even less at the high beam plug on the passenger side and nothing at the driver's side high beam. Also, I have reconnected the grounds right now I am at a loss for ideas.

Anyone with any best guess?

Thanks,
Paul
 

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If you can verify that it is at least the right harness that would be the first start. (Don't know what diff's there are - but XR7 harness' are unique I think) Not sure why you have a voltage loss on the pass side - but if you still have what seems like an open on other portions - I'd get a good wiring schematic and go through systematically and ohm each terminal/connection out to find your open/high resistance runs and try to pinpoint where. I got a pretty good wiring diagram book off ebay for a 69 for about $15 - money well spent. Can you do a stare and compare with the original one to help you out at all...?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
...?[/QUOTE]

Badcat, I have the correct harness atleast that is what I was ordered and it has all of the connectors that are shown in the pictures. The harness I removed didn't have as many connectors and appears to be a standard (by the photos I checked) I was wondering about the power loss and tha fact that the hi beam is also lit when the low beams are on.

Paul
 

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what happens when you are in high beam position? (wondering if there would be a way to cross something - but I believe connectors are indexed...) Did this thing have the wrong harness on it from the PO and could he possbily have re-engineered something in an attempt to make it work..? I don't know if my diagrams will help or not but I'll look athem when I get home for a better frame of reference. (maybe I can scan/email to my self and forward if anything of value in it) My brother in law has a 68 that is fairly torn appart - I have no idea what shape it's in but I may be able to get a look at it this weekend if need be....we'll get there
 

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Who did you buy the wiring harnesses from? Many of the aftermarket harnesses are marked correctly for a Mustang, but their Cougar application is inverse. For example, the wiring harness for a 1968 Mustang With tachometer is the correct harness for a 1968 Cougar without tachometer. If you mix this up, you get a battery that doesn't charge.

Answers:
1. On the battery terminals
2. Same as the battery, ie 13.7 - 14.2 volts with the engine running
3. Yup
4. Worth checking for a good connection but I doubt it is your problem
5. Lots of them. Again it pays to look around and check all of them.
6. Those Stang forums can be confusing. Best to avoid them unless you are working on a cheaper Fomoco product.


I just replaced the headlight harness, Alternator and Alternator harness, and noticed that the new harness was different from the one that we were replacing. It was missing a couple of wires/connectors (I removed some of the wrapping to see if the were cut, but they were not there). I think the PO replaced the harness with a standard or a Stang.

But, when we finished I tested the headlights and found that only the drivers side low beam worked. The passenger side was very dim and the high beam light had a very small light. When the high beams were turned on, both of the high beam lights don't work. The drivers side low beam got brighter, I can't remember if it is supposed to. The last time I had to use the lights was when the car was inspected last August and I was in the car at the time so I didn''t see them but the car passed so I assume they were working. Can anyone tell me what I did wrong?

Also, replaced the voltage regulator last night and no changes (Although it looked like the passenger low beam may be a little brighter) I still have no high beams. I am wondering if the new alternator is not working correctly. So now I am looking for ways to check it without having to take it to the store to check it.

1. Can anyone tell me where I can place a voltage meter to check and see what the output it?
2. Can anyone tell me what voltage I should at the headlight plug when the lights are on?
3. Same thing for the high beams?
4. I did notice a little rust on the firewall\engine ground wire and wonder if this makes any difference. I plan to order one in the near future but may have move it up if you think it matters.
5. How many locations have a ground wire in the engine compartment? I have the battery/engine block, firewall/engine block and voltage regulator/radiator support.
6. I read on a Stang forum that the passenger headlights had a ground wire, but I can't seem to find any information about the Cougars having one.

I had 12v at the battery when I tested it, but after the car ran for about 30 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it 20 minutes later I had to jumpstart it to get it back into the garage. Any ideas?

I am hoping to rule out a bad headlight harness, as I don't want to have to buy another one and not have it resolve the problem.

I know I will have more questions and I thank you in advance for any assistance in resolving my issues.

Thank you,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what happens when you are in high beam position? (wondering if there would be a way to cross something - but I believe connectors are indexed...) Did this thing have the wrong harness on it from the PO and could he possbily have re-engineered something in an attempt to make it work..? I don't know if my diagrams will help or not but I'll look athem when I get home for a better frame of reference. (maybe I can scan/email to my self and forward if anything of value in it) My brother in law has a 68 that is fairly torn appart - I have no idea what shape it's in but I may be able to get a look at it this weekend if need be....we'll get there
When the high beams are on the drivers low beam gets brighter and the high beam doesn't come on at all. The passenger side has no lights at all. I have a used harness being sent to me, I hope to receive before this weekend.

Thanks for the help,
Paul
 

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Sounds like bad bulb or bad harness / connector to the bulb. A headlight bulb gets power and ground. You need both to have light, plus a functional light bulb. Not that complicated actually.

When the high beams are on the drivers low beam gets brighter and the high beam doesn't come on at all. The passenger side has no lights at all. I have a used harness being sent to me, I hope to receive before this weekend.

Thanks for the help,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Who did you buy the wiring harnesses from? Many of the aftermarket harnesses are marked correctly for a Mustang, but their Cougar application is inverse. For example, the wiring harness for a 1968 Mustang With tachometer is the correct harness for a 1968 Cougar without tachometer. If you mix this up, you get a battery that doesn't charge.

Answers:
1. On the battery terminals
2. Same as the battery, ie 13.7 - 14.2 volts with the engine running
3. Yup
4. Worth checking for a good connection but I doubt it is your problem
5. Lots of them. Again it pays to look around and check all of them.
6. Those Stang forums can be confusing. Best to avoid them unless you are working on a cheaper Fomoco product.

Royce,
Thank you for the responses, I really liked #6. I bought the haedlight wiring harness from WCCC and the Alternator harness from Cascade Classics. Lin is sending me another XR7 headlight harness so I can see if the harness is the problem. The Alt harness I bought is C7ZZ-14056-SBWO which is what CC has listed as the correct harness for the 68 XR7 (I just had my wife verify the part number on the bag). I will keep looking for more grounds and see if I disconnected something when I installed the headlight harness.

Thanks again,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sounds like bad bulb or bad harness / connector to the bulb. A headlight bulb gets power and ground. You need both to have light, plus a functional light bulb. Not that complicated actually.
I am picking up replacement bulbs later today, so I can rule that out. I was getting about 5.86v when I tested at the headlight connector which has me thinking the harness has an issue somewhere.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, I got a relacement harness from WCCC and installed it. I now "have headlights" BUT I went inside to call Lin and thank him for all of his help I came back out to go for a ride and found that my car was on FIRE! It seems that one of the wires on the stater solenoid and the wiring that comes from the ignition coil to the distributor both melted. The wire on the solenoid was one of the ones with the 90 degree boots (one closest to the starter). I don't think I had the wrong wires connected to the Solenoid, but now I am not so sure. I can no longer make out the color of the wires so I can't offer any more information. After, I got the fire out I found out the ignition coil had EXPLODED! Has anyone ever had this happen to them? I will be talking to Richard (WCCC) tomorrow so I hope he can give me some answers and maybe some of you can point me in the right direction now.

Thanks,
Paul
 

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AWE CRAP Paul! Sorry to hear that. WTF gus? Obviously somehting is shorted somehow but what..? Hope the damage isn't horrible....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Badcat, right now it doesn't seem too bad. The fire was limited to the wiring, luckily I don't have any gas leaks or I would be looking for a place to live! I think the points, condensor are toast, along with the dist cap and rotor. I was planning on replacing the ignition coil and points, etc in the next couple of weeks but now I am really worried about that upgrade. The biggest thing I don't understand is everything seemed to work before I started to correct the PO's wiring job.

I hope the new starter, alternator, starter solenoid and voltage regulator are still in working condition. I think I will have to buy a new headlight harness along with the guage harness and alt harness just to be on the safe side.

I hope Richard from WCCC has some answers for me as to why this happened.

Thanks,
Paul
 

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Dang. I hate it when that happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hello,
I just finished installing my repaired under dash harness and a new headlight harness and it worked for a few minutes and then the ignition coil exploded again. I am completly over my head on this one and I hope someone has an idea as to what is causing my problems. I have replaced the voltage regulator, starter, alternator, starter solenoid and the ignition switch. the battery is a little over a year old.
A little background:
I found out the headlight harnes that worked was from a Mustang or a standard Cougar. I didn't have any problems until I replaced the headlight harness which was because of the hack job the PO had done to it. The car was working fine until the new harness was installed.
Again, any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul
 

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Boy Paul IDK? Very perplexing? At this point I would get somebody with a 68XR7 over to your place (dinner/12 pack/hot babe) and see if you can stare and compare - ohm it all out and see what doesn't match? I don't claim to knoW part numbers but the one you have listed looks like a late 67 harness - is it possible there were mid-year changes in 68 or 67 harness'? GRASPING AT STARWS HERE....
 

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Never have had an ignition coil explode. That sounds like there is no resistor wire, or perhaps you have too much charging voltage. Maybe the alternator harness is the wrong one? For a Cougar XR-7 the correct alternator harness is the one for "1967 Mustang without tach". Use the alternator harness for a "1967 Mustag with tach" and you will have major problems.

Hello,
I just finished installing my repaired under dash harness and a new headlight harness and it worked for a few minutes and then the ignition coil exploded again. I am completly over my head on this one and I hope someone has an idea as to what is causing my problems. I have replaced the voltage regulator, starter, alternator, starter solenoid and the ignition switch. the battery is a little over a year old.
A little background:
I found out the headlight harnes that worked was from a Mustang or a standard Cougar. I didn't have any problems until I replaced the headlight harness which was because of the hack job the PO had done to it. The car was working fine until the new harness was installed.
Again, any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul
 
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