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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a grounding strap that runs from the engine block to the body? If so, where does it connect to the body?

Thanks in advance:
 

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Yep - from the back of the block to the firewall on the passenger side. Very cheezy braided wire with lousy metal screw connection. Really you should make a good connection from block to frame - even if your doing "resto". It's not dependable from factory. You can put it there for correctness I suppose....
 

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Here is a picture of the strap: www.cougarpartscatalog.com/fda-14303-a.html . Looking in my Electrical Assembly Manual, it mounts to the rear of the passengers side head back to the firewall. The screw mounts the strap to the firewall and the bolt mounts the strap the the rear of the head. John
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep - from the back of the block to the firewall on the passenger side. Very cheezy braided wire with lousy metal screw connection. Really you should make a good connection from block to frame - even if your doing "resto". It's not dependable from factory. You can put it there for correctness I suppose....
I think I already know the answer, but.....

If I were missing this (I only have the ground from batter to block), could this be a problem with my gauge cluster malfunction
 

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Dave after looking in my Elec. Assembly Manual again, there is a cable that mounts betweem two nuts on the right side of the soleniod (the left side would be for the positive battery cable) and mounts between two nuts on top of the starter towards the front of it. The negative battery cable connects towards the front of the block on the passengers side. Hope this helps. John
 

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Almost no car really has good enough grounding cables. Our 68's have that little strap at the back of the head to the firewall at the passenger side. I have definitely come to the conclusion that the more the better. My wife's 98 Sable is a classic example with only 1 strap. Those engines have a tremendous problem with the coolant turning brown and part of it is electrolysis between the head and coolant. Last year, when out on an old Coast Guard Icebreaker, I ran across a ton of 4,6 and 8 gauge cables from 10"-20" in length. No need on the Hornet but then it hit me what they could be used for so I collected a dozen of them to take home. Those are my extra grounding cables, and substantial ones at that, on all my cars.
 

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The factory neg battery cable had a lug in the middle of it that was bolted to one of the voltage regulator mounting screws. This made sure you had a good engine-body ground and resolved the dreaded flickering lights at low-rpms.

Nowadays, I just run my own 2-ga cable from the block to the frame rail. that means I have four battery cables instead of the usual three - pos battery to solenoid, pos solenoid-starter, neg battery-block, and neg block to frame rail. I never have problems cranking since the block is grounded well, and it also fixes the flickering lights.
 

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I think the 68's also need a ground strap under the dash frame to ground.....to cure the gremlins in the dash. They should be there on either end of the dash..?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think the 68's also need a ground strap under the dash frame to ground.....to cure the gremlins in the dash. They should be there on either end of the dash..?
I do have the dash ground connected but have a problem with gauges (all gauges dead). I made the mistake of thinking a 67 and 68 XR-7 dash were the same. They are not. So, I tried to put a 67 dash and harness in a standard 68. A bunch of connectors would not mate. So I bought a 68 harness. It does not connect properly to the 67 gauge cluster. So now I need a 68 gauge cluster or wiring harness.

BUT..... I thought I saw the temp gauge work for a few minutes. Hence, I am looking into grounding.
 
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