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Discussion Starter #1
The front floor pans in my '67 resto project turned out to be a lot worse than I thought. Initially I fiberglassed in patches, but thought better of it and easily took them back out (a little too easy). To do the job right, I bought SMR front pans (toe boards) and have not much good to say about them. The driver side pan was fairly close to the original,(except that the out side edge is crimped the wrong way) but I wound up just cutting out what I needed and patched it in. The passenger side pan is a different story. It is basically a piece of you-know-what! The contours, cuts, and crimps are waaaay off where they should be, much worse than the driver side repro. I expect that there is probably a fair amount of variation between pans from this outfit, but this is ridiculous, and you'd think that they might do a better job.

Anybody care to share experience in front floor pan replacement using these low quality reproductions?

Tedd
 

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Who is SMR? Generally most places are selling the same repros but sometimes there are good and better available for a given part/piece. From what vendor did you buy and who is the manufacturer?

Regards,

Bob
 

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I used the entire length pans from MU. Fit just fine. Can you take a picture or provide a link to the ones you purchased so that we can see what you see?
 

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OMG, too funny with that pic and quote. Think I need to clean my keyboard :)

QUOTE=cougarshaman;459363]You know, with a hole in the floor you can smell the tranny while driving?
View attachment 24796
[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I dont know. SMR is SMR. Apparently they are the only ones that stamp short pans. This according to Don at WCCC. Thanks to Don for everything he does. I opted for the shorties because the whole side doesnt need replacing. Just thought somebody might have had similar fitment problems and some experience to share. Thanks.
 

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I went ahead and replaced each side with the best full length pans. They come with the outside lip bent correctly and it a heavier gauge, well worth the $. If I were to do it again though, I would consider a full pan, then you would not have to do much butt or overlap welding. Basically, cut it all at the factory spot welds and install new ones. Sand or scuff each side of the floor pan and put some POR 15, or the like, great rust preventative (then you won't have to do it again). Make sure to inspect all torque boxes and seat risers. Risers in a 67-68 cougar are shorter than their mustang counterpart! Its seemed intimidating, but wasn't that difficult. You will need a mig welder, grinder, spot weld cutter, drill and bits, sheet metal shears and black and silver sharpie's. I bought a cheap plasma cutter and saved a bunch of time cutting the floors out, but it can be done with a cutoff tool or body saw. Took about 20 hours but it could be done a little quicker.
 
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