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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to attempt to just replace the lifter and see if that fixes my issue.

I don't have a shop manual and was wondering what the torque specs are for the intake manifold. I'm also thinking that all I will have to do is mark the position of the distributor and it should slip right back into place, is that correct? Anything else I might need to know?
 

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Mark not only the position of the distributor housing in relation to the block but also the position of the rotor in relation to the cap. Oh, and watch out as you remove the distributor so you dont drop the oil pump drive shaft drop into the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I might be missing something in the dark but it appears that I won't have to remove the distributor. True?
 

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I might be missing something in the dark but it appears that I won't have to remove the distributor. True?
True, reading in my 68 shop manual on page 8-67, it doesn't say anything about having to remove the distributor to remove the intake manifold, there are about 13 things listed to remove it. On page 8-133 under torque limits, where it says Manifolds to Cylinder Heads, for the intake it would be 20-22 (foot pounds I believe). John
 

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Hey man, it's your game and you can play it as you wish, but you are wasting your time putting a new lifter on a worn off lobe. The intake valve is going to stay open too long for the reason I described originally and a new lifter is going to do nothing to mitigate that.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Bob's right - unless you think for some reason it's the lifter itself..? pull the intake and just watch/measure how far the lifter rises above the bore compared to the others. That should give you a good indicator on the shape of the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you are right I'm only out $20 bucks and some time. I need it running to put my DD in for some work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Torque pattern? Also, looks like I'll have to take the thermostat housing off?

Is there a download of the shop manual somewhere?
 

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You will see by the condition of the BOTTOM of the lifter whether the cam lobe is GONE. If it has wiped the lobe, there is no reason on earth to drop a new lifter in the hole, PERIOD. When in doubt, compare the one in question with a couple others, but keep track where each lifter goes. IMO.

I wish you well,

Dale in Indy
 

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Torque pattern? Also, looks like I'll have to take the thermostat housing off?

Is there a download of the shop manual somewhere?
On the torque pattern, from looking at the pic in my shop manual on page 8-68, the order from the front of the manifold on the drivers side is 6,4,12,10,2 & 8. The order from the front on the passengers side is 5,1,9,11,3 & 7. Hope this helps. John
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes it does, thanks. Found a computer copy of the shop manual. I should have had one long ago anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I do plan on doing it right but I needed this done this weekend to put the DD in the shop.

The lifter was worn deep enough to have a hole through the bottom. Cranked it over when done and let it heat up for the final torque down. The cam lobe is probably worn since I don't have the backfire but I do have a bit of a tick.

My estimate was around $700 and that included a healthy padding just in case.

I only need this to hold up for about a week or two and my commute is 19 miles round trip.
 

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It should last okay I would think. No backfire is a good sign, I am surprised. Wow, never heard of a lifter worn that bad! Good luck with it and hope it works/serves its purpose for you.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll get a picture and post it. Believe me, if I had the time and money up front I would do it right. This is just a stop gap until then.

As for the new cam, I was hoping for one a bit hotter then stock but able to fit under the OEM intake.

Now the rods all look like new (realized as I tore it down that the PO had opened her up before) so I don't know how long ago it was done. Would you replace the rods when you replace the lifters or leave them be if they all look good? NOTE: she was extremely clean when I took the intake off.

It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it might be. The intake bolts were all easy to take off, almost too easy. I figured that whoever did the last work torqued them down but failed to re-torque after bring it up to operating temp.

The next time I tear into her I know it will be more involved as I will have to remove the distributor this time along with the water pump and timing set. I'm thinking it would be easier to take out the radiator or even the whole front clip to get access for the cam. Any thoughts?
 

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If the pushrods look good, no harm in reusing them unless you are putting crazy springs on or a very high lift cam. Regarding cam change, usually just radiator (and condesor if you have AC) are all that is required.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Forgot about the pic but I'll get her tonight. She was running hot yesterday so I decided that the thermostat probably needed to be replaced (I knew I should have done it while the intake was out of the car) so I ran to the parts store as soon as it opened . Pulled it apart and found that the PO was running her without one. Cleaned things up and slapped it back together and she seemed to be running nice and cool. I let her idle in the 90 degree heat for a good 10 to 15 minutes and she seemed to be fine so I took her out on a test drive. About five miles down the road, and a half mile from my destination, I notice she was running a bit hot. I let her cool down for a good 45 minutes to a hour before I drove her home. She stayed at midway on the gauge for half the trip back and then crept up to high. I am thinking its the radiator. Makes sense?
 

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Yeah, could be the rad. First see if you are holding pressure in the system though? Hoses should be nice and firm when hot (insert joke here), if not, you gotta find the leak. Could be as simple as an old hose or cap. Can you see any crud build up in the rad?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
New cap and thermostat. Hoses seem fine. In the past I've tried to flush the system and a few weeks latter it looks like I never touched it.
 

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Could be you have a high mineral content in your water? May want to use distilled water if so...rad prices have gotten silly so I would try to have it cleaned out first. Some guys run a CLR mix through and flush it out real good. Could also be a flow issue - make sure the lower hose isn't collapsing when you are driving it. You can get hoses with internal "spring" wire in it which would help ensure that's not happening.
 
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