Gas Gauge fuse... 1967 Standard Cougar
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Stupid me!! (Haha) I put LED lights in the dash. They looked good and bright at first then I turned on the turn signal and it smoked the Voltage regulator to the dash bezel. Replaced the regulator from WCCC and Fuel & Temp gauge from WCCC. Every thing works fine exept the Fuel and Temp gauge. I don't see any fried wires.
The Fuel & Temp gauge circuit got to be fuseed or Breaker(ed) some where to protect the curcuit. Replace the sending unit for the Temp. And still don't work. Hummm Somebody knows where to look. Thanks for the reply Leon!!!
The Fuel & Temp gauge circuit got to be fuseed or Breaker(ed) some where to protect the curcuit. Replace the sending unit for the Temp. And still don't work. Hummm Somebody knows where to look. Thanks for the reply Leon!!!
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First, the dash lights and TS have nothing to do with the cluster voltage regulator. The IVR is for the gauges exclusively. Have you checked the input to the IVR? It should be 12V. The output? It should be pulsing 12V. Leon, is correct, there isn't a fuse.
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I took the dash apart (again) The regulator IS connected to the fuel and temp gauges. I removed the regulator and put 12 volts to one side and grounded it and there is (o) volt output. 12 volt hot wire from the harness feeds the regulator and two green wires(output) feed the gauges. And the same hot wire that feeds the regulator goes to the the Amp light. It has nothing to do with the rest of the cluster.
I think the Voltage Regulator (used) I got from WCCC is bad. I hope I'm right on this one. I ordered the solid state one this time.
I'll tune in when I find out if I'm wrong or right. Wish me luck
Thanks for your input guys!!
I think the Voltage Regulator (used) I got from WCCC is bad. I hope I'm right on this one. I ordered the solid state one this time.
I'll tune in when I find out if I'm wrong or right. Wish me luck
Thanks for your input guys!!
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11,950 Posts
Yes sir - the gauges are basically telling you the resistance that is reflected by the device (float or sending unit) which acts a a rheostat - the resistance changes as the float drops - goes up (ie lower voltage and higher voltage) so you are right in thinking there is an open in the circuit - it's just not a fuse. Could be bad connector/ground/broken wire/etc....
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I feel your pain... Mine sometimes works for a while (fuel gauge) then takes a break and won't work for a while. Currently on a 3 month break thus far. I thought it was floats but just before I went to install them the guage started working. Worked for a month or so and then nothing. Those old wires can be really finicky. God luck. I'll be sure and post if I find anything that might help.
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You could but why would you want or need to? Your last post said the IVR was bad. Has something changed since then?
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89 Posts
Last night the gauges was trying to work. Up down over and over. Then I notice if I wiggled the ignition switch, It got worse.
I saw and heard an arch. I turned the switch the OFF. And the switch fell out behind the dash. And if I turn the key to the right,,,I can pull the part the key goes in,, out. Broken ignition switch
I saw and heard an arch. I turned the switch the OFF. And the switch fell out behind the dash. And if I turn the key to the right,,,I can pull the part the key goes in,, out. Broken ignition switch
... Hopefully I am not hijacking this thread. (similar topic).... I just started having the same problem as charlie. .... Gas gauge just started indicating 1/8 tank. ... Stuck that way for a couple of weeks. ... Then suddenly just started working - worked for a couple of weeks, and with tank over half full - stuck at 1/8 tank reading again. ... Any ideas?
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89 Posts
This weekend I'll install a new ignition switch. If it cures the gauge problems, I'll let you know. This is getting frustating. Change the regulator two times thinking it was the problem.
Off the topic.....How do you key the new ignition keys to the work on the door locks?
Off the topic.....How do you key the new ignition keys to the work on the door locks?
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13,577 Posts
Sorry to say that it is highly unlikely that the ignition switch is going to solve the gauges problem you are having.
Proper troubleshooting is what you need.
On the door locks, you either buy a matching set, change the cylinder out from the old ignition lock to the new one, or have the door locks or ignition switch rekeyed to match the other by a competent locksmith.
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121 Posts
The lock barrel from your existing switch can be re-used. It pulls out of the switch by inserting a pin in the small hole close to the key slot. You need to turn the key to the left then insert a pin or piece if wire and the barrel should pop right out. You need to do this to get the ignition switch out anyway as I understand. There are plenty of how to pages on the web (and here) that show how to do this. The switch body also has a plug connection at the rear which needs to seperated from the switch body. I do not find this task particularly easy by the way, though others think its a piece of cake! Hope this helps!
Cheers
Peter Lynn
Cheers
Peter Lynn
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Do all the gauges work or none? Or, is the problem with one in particular (and the others okay)? If it is all or none, the problem is with the IVR or its supply. If it is a particular gauge, like the fuel gauge you have been speaking of, remove the other wire which comes from the gas tank and ground the gauge terminal. The gauge should go to full. If this works, the problem is with either the wire to the tank, the sender or the grounding of the tank. You isolate one at a time to find out. Remove the wire from the sender and ground it to the body. If the gauge goes to full, all is well from the wire forward. Provide some answers to what I have outlined here and we can solve the problem.
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