Royce is spot on only I would use a larger 57 gravel and add the french drain out to the low side and away from the barn. You really need to control the water and runoff around the building. Not very expensive but a lot of labor. But it would be worth it.
Garage Floor Advice
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1,855 Posts
Yeah I didn't put any plastic down. A lot of sand and and a six inch 4500 psi floor but skipped the plastic. Now will have to figure a good way to deal with the moisture when it warms up. Floor is sealed but still water lying everywere. Only did it once last fall and once this spring but way to much moisture on everything in the barn, at least everything metal.
Use caution on what brand of epoxy you use. I did the degreasing, acid wash, diamond grinding, and dust removal and then put down two coats of Hilti epoxy coating for concrete. After just a couple of years it was coming off all over and looked terrible.
As for the vapor barrier, have 3 inches of closed cell polyurethane foam put down before the concrete is poured and problems will be eliminated. I work for a polyurethane manufacturer and this is a common practice in cold climates and it works great.
As for the vapor barrier, have 3 inches of closed cell polyurethane foam put down before the concrete is poured and problems will be eliminated. I work for a polyurethane manufacturer and this is a common practice in cold climates and it works great.
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6,027 Posts
I agree on the plastic sheeting. It's the only thing we did different on my shop vs. my dads. His floor sweats and mine doesn't. Plus I've read that it's good for 10 more degrees temperature on the slab in the wintertime. It really helps if you're up north. A little late for Harvey though.
It may not be an option but metal sweats from tempature change also. I thougt the issue was water on the floor. In my woodshop it is a constant battle when it gets cool or cold at night and warm during the day. We get condensation on my machines from the temp change. We constantly polish and wax to fight rust. The only cure is heat and that aint happening except when we are in there working. We keep the wax handy.
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1,435 Posts
Yes, I have a couple of them. The car looks exactly like it did when the bag was sealed. I use the dessicant canisters instead of the pouches.
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1,581 Posts
No... well maybe a little and the dessicant will take care of that. I have an older one where you have to jack the car up and slide it under the wheels. kind of a pain in the rear. I also have a newer one that has the zipper and is much easier to install the car. Just drive the car onto the bag and fold it over and zip it shut. An added benefit it also keeps mice out. I've never had a mouse get in one of mine, or atempt to chew on the plastic bag.
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11,956 Posts
Just be sure the bag has a way to vent during temp changes though - people who have thier boats shrink wrapped for the winter regret it very quickly if it gets humid and hight temp swings before they unwrap it......I'd avoid plastic altogether IMHO, and go with fabric. Mice do not like peppermint oil - soaking some rags and leave them around your car helps. Or you can make a "yupper" mouse guard - just take some 12" wide flashing and bend it to fit all the way around the car so they can't climb over it. Simple and it works.
Recently I've been hearing of people painting their garage floors with a roll-on rubberized type paint. By the sound of it, it seems almost like Line-X but it is made specifically for garage floors. Does anyone have any experience with any products like this? If so, how did the application go and what do you think of it? And if not, what have you done with your garage floors? I was interested in doing this to my garage but found out that summer is NOT the best time to do it and it is supposed to be left untouched for several days after it is applied. Any info?
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