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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I should have coated my garage floor when it was new: woulda, shoulda, coulda. Now it is stained and I am not confident of cleaning it well enough to use epoxy.
What has been your experience with the snap-together tiles? Also comparison between brands.
Give me your advice.
Thanks.
 

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Hey Tom,

I have no tile advice, but can tell you, if you degrease, and diamond grind your floor, epoxy would be fine. I've done 4, two new construction, and two old. One of the old ones was my attached. Had several large oil stains that covered fine, with just degreasing and acid etching. I've since destroyed that epoxy, and will soon be re-doing it, starting with grinding all the old off! By destroyed, I mean spill/overspray, not lifting of the epoxy.

Had great luck with www.performanceepoxy.com!

Good luck, whichever way you go.
 

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Or you can have it polished out for around $5/sq ft instead....

There are some very good but caustic grease removers you can prep it for epoxy if you want to go that route, use muratic acid on it just prior to epoxy and it should hold up pretty dang good.

Option 3 - tell them it was used for Harley parking previously! ;>)
 

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There are some very good but caustic grease removers you can prep it for epoxy if you want to go that route, use muratic acid on it just prior to epoxy and it should hold up pretty dang good.

Option 3 - tell them it was used for Harley parking previously! ;>)
Just make sure and nuetralize the acid with plenty of baking soda, and rinse WELL! And give it time to dry out......
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good thoughts but I am really interested in the lock-together tiles. My garage is pretty full and I don't want to take several days with everything sitting outside. The tiles sound like a 1 day program and I am interested in what peoples experiences have been. What is the best brand and how well do they work?
 

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I know you want the tiles and I did too, but my garage floor person told me about the issues he has wioth installing them; Moisture colllects underneath, they can wrinkle up if not installed correctly, they don't always come clean and trap water and dust in their grooves, the garage stinks once moisture gets under them and they're not cheap.
 

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^^^unless your talking about southern Texas location. Then you may not have concrete sweating issues. Minn....another story! Rent a storage unit for a month, take your time and do the epoxy. You won't regret it. Be sure to use the no slip additive int it BTW!! You will regret not doing that this winter....

I have heard more troubles w/tiles - to problematic in a garage that's used for work, but nice in a "showroom" type garage. Just depends on how you are using it.
 

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I did wall to wall with a good grade indoor/outdoor carpeting. Have had tiles, epoxy etc in the past and can say this carpeting is the the best thing I ever did. Of course you cannot be welding but after 4 years it still looks good. I use spray carpet cleaner on spots and vacuum once a week. Next year will be time for new carpet and may just glue on top of this one. If you buy enough just cut individual car matts to place on top of the base. My dog loves it and wife likes it as well. Great insulation and looks sharp. Med/Dark Grey 3 car garage was about 300 bucks. I live in San Diego so do not know about sweating concrete or alternate weather and its effects on this. 4 tool boxes and dozens of cars have been worked on in my garage. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking
 

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I had water standing on my concrete in the barn this spring. it has been sealed with epoxy but the first real warm day we had the floor sweat so bad I was using a broom to sweep the water out? Last fall there was one day that even the car was wet in there. Other than a good fan anyone know of a way to prevent or reduce this? I really don't want to have a freshly restored car in the barn when it sweats like that. I was thinking maybe getting a vapor barior of some sort to put under the car?
 

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Follow Todds advice. I have been a flooring contractor for 23 yrs and do garage floors as part of my services. Acid etch or diamond grinding is better usuing 50 grit metal bond pads. Fill any cracks with cement patch, let dry for a day. Roll on a heavy coat of epoxy paint and evenly broadcast the paint chips, (Buy in bulk on line, you will use a lot) Wait until dry, sweep off loose chips. Spend some money on a waterbase clear with hardener, or a lacquer use lambs wool pad to apply (2) coats . You will enjoy the floor for years.
 

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I had water standing on my concrete in the barn this spring. it has been sealed with epoxy but the first real warm day we had the floor sweat so bad I was using a broom to sweep the water out? Last fall there was one day that even the car was wet in there. Other than a good fan anyone know of a way to prevent or reduce this? I really don't want to have a freshly restored car in the barn when it sweats like that. I was thinking maybe getting a vapor barior of some sort to put under the car?
Only way to prevent moisture in MI is to heat the garage in the winter and run a dehumidifier in the summer. Once you have the car done store it in a bag during the winter months. Keeps the moisture out and even the brake rotors will still be shinny.

http://www.vehiclebags.com/index.html
 

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You need a good plastic sheet down before the concrete is poured. I don't think there is much you can do after the fact. Perhaps digging a trench 24" deep X 14" wide around the perimiter of the garage and filling it with pea gravel to keep moisture from going under the slab.

I had water standing on my concrete in the barn this spring. it has been sealed with epoxy but the first real warm day we had the floor sweat so bad I was using a broom to sweep the water out? Last fall there was one day that even the car was wet in there. Other than a good fan anyone know of a way to prevent or reduce this? I really don't want to have a freshly restored car in the barn when it sweats like that. I was thinking maybe getting a vapor barior of some sort to put under the car?
 
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