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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm having a problem with my front discs. First the car was a bear to stop. I figured the front calipers needed rebuilding. With that done the vehicle does stop much easier however it wants to pull to the left during moderate braking. Has anyone had any issues with this? The only thing I can think of is maybe a fresh turn of the rotors. The insulator bushings also seem to be shot. (Those tiny rubber grommets that the mounting bolts stick through.) If this were a front drum car I could understand why this is happening but not with front disc. They have also been bled several times. Any ideas?

One other thing. Can anyone tell me if someone makes a caliper hardware kit?
 

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Check the hoses..If one has a slight blockage, there will not be as much pressure going to that side and so the car will pull to the opposite side.
Those rubber bushings prevent caliper rattle when you hit bumps.
Most auto parts stores should have a caliper kit. Just checked online and found one at Autozone.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
After driving my cat a lot this weekend I think I'm figuring out why the braking sucks. Every time I tap the brakes at speed I can feel and see the front end dip however it’s not quite what it should be. So I know the fronts are actuating. When I rebuilt the calipers I found the pistons to be really stuck which is why it didn’t stop too well in the first place. I'm thinking if the pistons were stuck while keeping pressure on the rotors, then maybe, just maybe they eventually got hot causing the surface to harden somewhat. We all know what rotors do after they get really hot. They either warp or harden enough to cause the pads not to grip. I would turn them to prove my point but it seems a prior owner allowed the pads to grind into the rotor on one side. So I'll just go ahead and replace them both. Does anyone concur with this finding?
 

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Turn First!

I had a similar experience with my first cat except it wanted to dive to the right. I replaced the pads, honed the cylinders to free up the pistons and it made a major difference....except it still wanted to aim straight for the ditch when I nailed the brakes. I had the rotors turned and all my problems went away.

They can do a lot by simply turning them....as long as there is enough there to work with. I would have a good brake shop take a look and see if there is enough metal left to work with before spending a bunch of money on replacing.....unless you have deep pockets :D

Just my 2 cents worth.....

Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll measure them myself. Reconditioned rotors are only $69.00. New rotors here in denver are $141.00 each The car only has 20K original so I'm sure there is plenty.
 
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