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Discussion Starter #1
Im doing the driver side and the front of the passager and adding subframe connectors and a chassis stiffener with drive shaftloop heidt's. Here is my thinking the subframe is hollow from the factory should I fill it with square steel tubing for strength so I have something really solid to bolt the stiffener to? Thanks Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #2
100_2324.jpg

Here is a pic of what Im asking about filling with square steel stock think it would add any extra strength or waste of time?
 

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Ron,

If you have specific ideas where you want to bolt things, by all means add something to the inside of the structural member in question. Personally, I feel any subframe connector is best welded in.

Regards,

Bob
 

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I agree with Bob, you need to weld in those subframe connectors. I made my own and slipped them inside of the frame rail about 6". I assume this adds plenty of strength.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For sure welding the connectors on but the chassis stiffener bolts on so it can be removed. So I thought adding some steel stock for when the holes need to drilled its nice and solid.
 

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I have made my own and used 2x2 tubing. shim the sides in the floor support, started at the front of the tq. box and ran to the front rear spring mounts. I have Pics in my gallery.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Old cat, Im not sure how to find youe gallery lol...took me a few min I found it tho. Nice job so thats a straight shot with 2x2 hows it look with the carpet in? Could the 2x2 be cut and shaped to the floor pan or is there a reason you to that route? here are the traction bars Im thinking of
 

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Ron I did mine almost the same as old cat --- a few of us have actually. I actually have a rollbar so I tied everything in with a plate off the front spring shackle, but 2" tube sticks into the floor cavity a bit - I just trimmed the carpet around it but you could get away going over it I think. If you see the threads you will see cougarrcj and dragboss' they are pretty much the same as mine: http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums...ub-Frame-Connectors&highlight=frame+connector

I don't have a good set of pics though:
http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums...ub-Frame-Connectors&highlight=frame+connectorI
http://s440.photobucket.com/albums/qq124/bad69cat/Cougar%20Pics/?action=view&current=DSC01039.jpg
http://s440.photobucket.com/albums/qq124/bad69cat/Cougar Pics/?action=view&current=DSC01040.jpg
http://s440.photobucket.com/albums/qq124/bad69cat/Cougar Pics/?action=view&current=DSC01052.jpg
 

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By the time you trim away the sound deadener and carpet underlayment, the bump caused by the intrusion of the straight-through (semi-inletted) subframe connector is virtually unnoticeable. Nobody actually sits in the back seat of the car anyway! I feel that the below-the-floor style connector hangs too low and is too noticeable from looking at the side of the car. Unlike Bad69cat, I did NOT want a roll bar/cage in my car... Stealth, Baby! Then again, AlphaCat is only supposed to go 12.0s and as such does not require a rollbar/cage...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great pics guys, I like it should of been like this from the factory!Old Cats looks like it did Great work. No one really rides in the back seat of my car either and I sure as hell dont lol so thats not a problem. Here is my goal I guess the 408 stoker roller cam block and TW head stage1 port work by foxlakeracing gears 4.11 built c4 3000/3200 stall in my pass posts. I dont think I will be needing a roll cage but I like the way badcats looks so Im thinking maybe I will set up all the metal work for it now then It would be there if its needed.

Cougrrcj your in my neck of thewood where is the best place to buy the steel from? Im guess and say home depot dont have it only place I checked was granger the want $115 for 2x2x10 0.0250 Thanks guys
 

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Depending on what your cars ends up running and the requirements of the sanctioning body - you won't have a choice in the not to distant future I bet. (Friggin' mopeds are gonna need one!! LOL) I didn't want the cage, and I didn't want to buy another car at the time. (wish I would have now!) BUT, if you plan for it now and add it later you are way ahead of the game and better off. Plus you are safer!! I like stealth myself and it's as blacked out as I could make it. Plenty of people are totaly caught off guard when they look in the car and see it! From the outside it's very hard to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looking back over the posts and pic's Im still not real clear on the mounting to the rear am I just butting the 2x2 to the torque box and welding or cutting a hole in the torque box and Inserting It in a few inchs then welding? Cant really tell from the pic's

Thanks Ron
 

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Ron, you'll have to make a trip out my way one of these days and I'll show you mine, and then take a trip up to North Ridgeville to see my buddy's cars... Much easier to see it in person! Then you can also talk to the guy who does the welding/fabricating!
 

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You could try a fab/welding shop, they should have what you need or can tell you a good place to get it.

Great pics guys, I like it should of been like this from the factory!Old Cats looks like it did Great work. No one really rides in the back seat of my car either and I sure as hell dont lol so thats not a problem. Here is my goal I guess the 408 stoker roller cam block and TW head stage1 port work by foxlakeracing gears 4.11 built c4 3000/3200 stall in my pass posts. I dont think I will be needing a roll cage but I like the way badcats looks so Im thinking maybe I will set up all the metal work for it now then It would be there if its needed.

Cougrrcj your in my neck of thewood where is the best place to buy the steel from? Im guess and say home depot dont have it only place I checked was granger the want $115 for 2x2x10 0.0250 Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #15
http://www.themetalstore.com/produc...-Square-Tubing/Square-Tubewith2-A-x-1-4-B.htm Found a place to get my metal. Got my seat pans today and have full floor pans I picked up on cl from a guy at flaming river over the summer so Im ready to go. My youngest son is a great welder so most of the work will fall on him. Cougrrcj thanks for the offer planning on doing this over the weekend but would like to hook up sometime my brother inlaw lives in grafton he has a few cars 41 willys 70 demon and 67 gtx. I will look over the pics again and do a search maybe find some details on the best way to mount it at the rear welp off to work blah. Thanks Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just an update went to summit yesterday got my 2x2 for the subframes and picked up a roll cage and some seats. few pics of what I got done t 100_2341.jpg 100_2343.jpg 100_2341.jpg
 

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CIMG0230.jpg I cut the top completely out of the torque box to weld mine in. Then notched the top and welded it back in. I used 2.5x2.5 .120 wall all the way to the front frame. I tapered it into the front rails. Its narrower at the bottom then the top. It solid now.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Welp got the floors and subframes in so I been scraping and wire wheeling the under side. What would be best to put back on some type of spray on underbody I was thinking some spray on bed liner? Then paint the control arms and rearend with por-15 100_2383.jpg 100_2377.jpg
 

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Looking good Ron! I don't rememeber what rubberized coating I used - but it melted after about 3 miles of driving!! Just a warning lol....be sure what you use will hold up to heat. POR 15 is a good thought
 

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