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Discussion Starter #1
there is an FE in an old tow truck that i can get... but i dont know what size it is. i found a tag under the dist hold down bolt and it had these Numbers on it....

330 70 13 9 G KO 505 A


Anyone have a clue what size it is judging by this?? it has 67 Casting numbers on the Intake and all but i dunno what it is.
 

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According to the book I have in order to use that tag it is laid out like the following

390 C 65 1

5-A 310 1


390= engine C.I.D
C = Engine plant code "C" cleveland "E" and "W" windsor
65 = model year
1 = change level (US built)
5 = year of production
A = month of production (January)
310 = engine code number

This is all O.K. provided no one has change the tag for another engine. Awful easy just taking one bolt out and "poof" you have taken your 352 and turned it into a 390. Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so what would this one be?? A 330? if it is,,, eeww
 

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Waste of time / boat anchor

That's a 330 CI FT motor from a medium duty truck. No good for anything these days. Looks like an FE and shares some parts but none that matter. Keep looking, someday you might find something good!

Royce Peterson
 

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FE info

Royce is right about the 330 FT motor, it's a boat anchor. But keep your eyes open, I know of a a few people who have found good FE cores everywhere from old boneyards, to boats, to farm equipment. Here in South Jersey the FE is a complete mystery to most people and quite a few FE's remain uninspected in the bigger junk yards. I bought an old F-250 with what the owner thought was a 360. It turned out to be a D4TE 390 block with reinforced main webbing and thick cylinders. I am getting ready to have it sonic checked to find out what I can bore it to.

By the way Royce, what kind of cylinder wall thickness should I be looking for before I decide on bore. I have heard that .100 is muinimum for a street driven FE thrust side, and that .125 is a must for an occasionally raced FE thrust side?

Paul G.
69 XR7 Convertible
 

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Cylinder walls

Paul,
Your numbers are fine, maybe a little on the safe side. Knock a freeze plug in and see what the gap is between cylinder bores. If a .125" drill bit won't fit anywhere the bore can go to 4.26". If it will allow a bigger bit, obviously the bore will not go as big. Check out www.fordfe.com and there are several posts relating to wall thickness versus displacement. As you have said a sonic check is the best bet but a big bore is not entirely necessary when using a 428 crank for example.

Royce Peterson
 

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FE info

Royce,
I have been a regular visitor to fordfe.com since I started this crazy notion of building a street/show FE for my Cougar. I have gotten a lot of my info, and even some of my parts from there. What an incredible resource of information and experience. I picked up the 1U 428 crankshaft from one of the regulars on the forum.
Based on Dave Shoe's drill bit test, I believe that the block could go to 428 but will not safely go any farther than 4.13. I may even under bore it so that I can have room for furure repairs. All this is of course depending on what the sonic check shows.
The D4TE block is pretty cool though. It has the reinforced main webs. And it has these strange bosses drilled in the side of the block where the cross bolts would be, but not on all of the main cap locations. It also has the exterior ribs (Ithink that is what they are) cast into the block.
The whole project is really coming along well and I have assembled most of the parts. I am getting an original H/M nascar low riser 2x4 manifold from Ken B. in Charlotte. I am still trying to figutre out what to do for carbs, Holley's tech service tells me a very different story than most FE guys. I really don't want to drop $1000 on the original BJ/BK carbs, and I have called Holley 3 times to be sure of thier reccommendation. They insist that I can run 1850's jetted down with the vaccuum's bridged with no problem. They said that with some careful tuning this combo would be perfect with the cam I picked (comp cam 275 DEH). I've got a line on a pair of 1850's that were set up for 2x4 and used on a GT 500. The guy just replaced the 1850's with the BJ/BK for correct resto and is letting the 1850's go cheap. What is your spin on the carbs?
Paul G.
69 XR7 Convertible
 

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Dual quad Holley carbs and other multiples

My buddy with the 69 Boss 429 has a factory Ford Musclepart 2x4 intake for his Boss 429. Got the FoMoCo logo on it and everything. (That's gotta be a rare piece, eh?) Anyways, he's running the 'normal' 1850s on it. He used a modified sliding progressive linkage, driving primarily on the rear carb (the primaries on the rear carb are closer to the center of the intake manifold, front to back). At about 2/3 throttle throw the front carb is activated. Each carb retained its vacuum secondary circuit and they are not tied together. It has no bogging or rich spots at all. It runs great!

At one time I had a 3x2 manifold on the big block Chevy in my Camaro. It was a factory 67 Vette low rise oval port tri-power. I was lucky and found a set of the correct carbs at a swap meet. I used the factory style throttle linkage on it. The primary carb was in the middle and was the only carb that had any direct gas-pedal throttle linkage. The end carbs were vacuum operated and were tied together with a common vacuum line. The only thing the thottle linkage did to them was to ensure that they were pulled shut when the primary was. Oh, and that they were open the same ammount. It also ran great! How's a [email protected] with a hydraulic cammed 396 (+.060) !?!

Two different multi-carb setups, two different linkage solutions. I think that Ford used a mechanical linkage on thier multi-carb setups, whereas GM and Chrysler used vacuum secondaries. I'm not really 'into' FEs and such so I really am not the one to ask about such things. If I am not 100% sure of something I'll be the first to tell you. A man's got to know his limitations.

Milo
 

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8V carb setup

Paul,

I have an 8V Medium Riser setup on my Augusta Green GTE. I have Edelbrock 427 aluminum heads and a fairly mild Comp Cams 280H cam. My carbs are a set of original C3AE-9510-BJ and -BK. I found them at a swap meet in 1996 for $300.00 in rough but complete condition for the pair. Joe Bunetic of East St. Louis, IL rebuilt them and so I have about $1000 in the pair of carbs. The Ford 8V setups are fabulous on the street, people who ride in the car always remark on the instant acceleration and unbelievable response. Of course having 448 CI helps too.

The 1850's can be made to work, I would send them to one of the carb experts for rework if I were you.
 

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FE info

Royce & CJ,
Thanks for the info and input. The carbs I am looking at have already been modified to run in a dual quad setup and were run on a 67 Shelby GT500. The car has the same heads as I am using, and ran well with a custom progressive linkage even without the secondaries tied together. I plan to use a similar linkage and tie the secondaries so they are automatically synched'.
As for the rarity of the intake, I was lucky enough to have come across a fellow cougar-phile who has bunch of rare and NOS parts. The intake is a Hoolman Moody low rise 2x4 originally made as a NASCAR prototype. It has the ford logo, but no part number.The story is that the Holman Moody folks found that it only gave them a couple more HP over existing castings and decided it was not worth producing in any large numbers. There are supposedly only two exsiting, one the current owner is keeping, the other is on its way to me. Being able to get my hands on that manifold was the deciding factor as to whether or not I would go with a 2x4 or single carb setup. Having a big block convertible cougar would be awesome enough, but having a piece of ford racing history under the hood was too cool to pass up.
Again, Thanks for all of your help,
Paul Garvin

PS-Royce, are you planning on attending the CCOA nats in June, I sure would love to see any one of those GTE's in person
 

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Da Nats

Paul,

There is a good chance I will be driving the blue GTE to the Nats next year.
 
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