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Fan CFM...

3K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  Logan 
#1 ·
Anyone know how many CFM the stock belt driven fans move?

I've got heat issues with the Clevor (Runs around 210 degrees typically), and I'd like to bring that down to 180-190... I've already checked and replaced the usual suspects. Cap, thermostat, flushed the system, etc, etc...

I've got two options at this point, which is swapping in a Griffin Aluminum rad, and/or moving to a electric fan, which I should really do anyway...

That being said, I want to get the maximum cooling I can possibly get away with. I've been looking at the Flex-a-lite 295, Which is a variable speed Dual 13.5" fan that pushes 4800CFM of air, which should be plenty.
 
#4 ·
I don't think the fan does much when crusing. I assume that you have checked all the easy stuff, coolant flow,level, radiator clogs, ect. Your not running a stock radiator are you? 50/50 antifreeze/water mix? Just trying to cover all the bases...

Bruce
 
#5 ·
I should've mentioned it'll creep up if I'm sitting at a light for more than a few minutes...

Running a 69 3-core (The A/C Rad), it's been re-cored last year, flow's good, no clogs, I just flushed and filled it with a 20/80(Anitfreeze/Water) Mix with Redline water wetter, which dropped it's ambient temps by 10 degrees...

I think my problem is twofold. One, The 3 core stock rad just isn't efficient enough to handle the heat the clevor is chucking (lumpy cam and lots of timing). Two, the stock fan just isn't pulling enough air at idle which is why it's creeping up when I'm stopped.

Sigh... Aluminum rad and a 4800cfm fan = $800... On the upside, it'll look cool.
 
#6 ·
Logan,
Ar you using a fan shroud? Have you experimented with a smaller water pump pulley to speed up fan speed? The air conditioned Cougars have smaller water pump pulleys and sometimes larger crank pulleys to speed up the fan for the condition you describe.
 
#8 ·
Royce....Interesting, I didn't know that. I've still got the original pulley on there from the A/C setup... I think I'm going to pop the bucks for the fan and see if that takes care of it, if not, move on to the rad...

Before I do that though, I'll try chucking a second bottle of watter wetter in my rad...
 
#9 ·
I had a '65 Ranchero with an AER 302/ Edelbrock Performer intake/ Pertronix/ C4 that would not stay cool with the AC on but was fine any other time. It had the best of everything, 4 core radiator, shroud, Flow Cooler pump etc. I tried first one bottle, then a second of Water Wetter. No difference at all.
 
#11 ·
Logan
let me know what the outcome is cause my car is doing the same thing. I put in a higher thermostat, flushed the system has a 3 core w/ a fan shroud a 7 blade clutch fan and when at a idle it is near the h when bumper to bumper.Even w/ the heater on full blast(YUK) It stays in the H I was told to use a electric fan but if the fan on your car does the trick i may take a page out of your book and use the same setup. But may have to go up to a bigger radiator.This 20 inch 3 row is ok, but the BIGGER the better..
thanks
pat
p.s. Keep the clevor car
 
#12 ·
Logan,
Is the radiator an old original one that has been patched up for the last thirty years? A new 24" 3 core radiator will keep anything cool with a good engine driven fan. If you are going to replace or upgrade only one thing the radiator would be my first choice. I think Dallas Mustang keeps Flow Cooler aluminum radiators in stock, they are significantly cheaper than the Griffin and look just as cool. They work well too.
 
#13 ·
Logan said:
Aluminum rad and a 4800cfm fan = $800...
Try http://www.alumrad.com/

Alum radiator 450$ w/ ATcooler and 375$ without

Elec fan 145$ wireing kit 50$

He said they could even weld in a temp sensor fitting to the radiator case.
 
#15 ·
Hmmmm...deja-vu

Well, I'm jumpin' in on this a tad late, but I just HADDA add my .02 worth...

I had the stock 2-row on my A/C Cougar (though the A/C's not workin' yet...though with all new parts...but that's yet another rant...) and was boiling over during Reno's Hot August Nights cruise a few years back...and if there's one thing I CAN'T abide, it's a #@*&$%Y#&^%# boilover!!!! :angryfi: )

Anyhoo...got me a 20" 4-row, added a shroud, took OFF the ford flexie-fan, put ON the 7-blade with a (severely shortened *L*) clutch unit. Also put in a high-performance water pump.

This fixed the boilover, but the next year, it still ran hotter'n it shoulda, and crept up to scary levels (as did my temperment) on the way home from H.A.N. over the pass into Truckee...Sooooo...

Took OFF the hi-po waterpump (which I figured was sucking the water through the radiator faster'n it could cool). Viola! A cool cat.

Nobody seems to want the 4-rows though...but hey, I figured overkill is better'n adequate (yeah, Tim Taylor is my idol!).

Then I lost a fan belt, which bent the (*(*@#^^$# out of my fan :angryfi: , so I went the the 17" flexi-fan and a shroud which wasn't in 35 pieces ;) - - - the fan still grinds the shroud at the bottom when someone stomps the gas and the engine tweaks a tad - - - so I'm goin' back to the stock 7-blade clutch setup. The flexi-fan seems to cool OK, but I can't keep wreckin' shrouds.

The stock 7-blade just seems to suck more air through also...
 
#16 ·
The rad isn't new, but has been recently re-cored, so it SHOULD be ok. I've got a 4600CFM electric fan coming, we'll see what that does.

Steps after that will include radiator upgrade and possibly removal of my Victor Jr Water pump, though I don't THINK it should be moving much more water than the stocker or at least, not enough to upset the balance...

Car doesn't boil over as is, but can easily do 230 degrees in 80 degree temps, which is no good...
 
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